1.6 carb to kjet 16v wiring help

Okay so ive taken out the mk2 16v loom and i'm gonna draw it all out and try and make ssome sense of it

I'm running a 9a on kjet, do i need a kr dizzy??

9a and kr dizzy are the same, what fusebox does it have early ceramic or later blade? if its later one easier to start with a pre-90 mk2 16v engine loom as it plugs straight into the fusebox, you just have to strip it back and reroute the loom so it fits. most of it is too long, the only wires you need to extend are to the throttle switch and over-run cutoff valve (black plastic one behind airbox)

if all you have is 90spec mk2 loom then you could keep the basic engine loom from that, and swap over the k-jet stuff to it. bin off all the carb wiring but keep the water temp, pressure switch wires and the coil + wiper loom. there will be a black/purple wire to the fusebox pin 13, keep that too. may have black wire(s) to D/2 and D/7, keep them too (pins are all labled on the front of the plug, D is the white one on engine loom)

the cold start parts dont go to the fusebox, most of the wiring is in the bay but there is 1 red/white fuel pump live from the WUR, and also a starter live red/black from the 5th injector thermoswitch to spades behind the fusebox which we will talk about later. drop that over onto the old loom. next we will look at the isv control unit and wires, again these are all seperate so cut off and swap across. the isv unit has 1 black ignition live wire, plus there is a black/yellow wire from the over-run cutoff valve, and a black throttle switch wire which are also ignition live to the fusebox area. again we will worry about those in a bit just run them behind fusebox for now.

now lay it on engine, fine tuning lengths and routing till you're happy, tape it all in place. next thing is the coil, if your mk1 has electronic ignition all is well, move on. if not you'll need to remove the old purple/white wire to coil and run another ignition live feed to it, ideally use D/23 pin might need to get a spare CE1 loom and cut it up to retrieve a spare large pin for this

now for the fuel pump. 1st fit a 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay to socket 2. Then you need to add a pin to E/14, again you'll need a large sized pin. run 2 wires to E/14, 1 to the fuel pump, the other to a male spade. crimp a female spade to the WUR red/white wire I mentioned earlier, plug this in. now the red/black thermoswitch wire you have 2 choices, either strip a bit of insulation from the starter wire and splice it onto that, or put a spade on it and plug it into the spade hanging C/18 (if its there) I just splice it to main starter loom on looms I make these days as its easier for customers as less plugs to deal with.

next the ignition loom. this mostly just drops straight in, 2 wires to coil, 1 to battery -ve, dizzy plug, earth to head and wire to temp sensor on head. there is also a 2 pin plug, 1black/yellow wire goes to the throttle switch, the red/yellow wire goes to the fusebox d/13 pin i mentioned before. crimp/splice a matching 2 pin plug onto your engine wiring to match the ecu plug, run the wires to where they need to go then tape it up and plug everything in.

last step is those ignition lives, you can use the D/2 and/or D/7 wires if the carby loom had them for these, or if you look on the fusebox itself there are a selection of spades, some are ignition live (use a multimeter!)

Wow top stuff RJ thanks very much, thats given me loads to get going with. I'm an abseloute newb with wiring so it might take me a while!

Its definately a later type fusebox.

I'm also planning to run the battery in the boot and hide as many wires as possible, but maybe first things first I should just get it started.

Cheers  

yes definitly get it goign and work from there, you dont want to add any more complication at this point!

I was wrong its an early fuse box with lttle cylinder shaped plastic fuses not the modern bridge shaped ones lol good start 

right, its not a problem as still most of the feeds bypass the fusebox. what you'll have to do though is put a fuel pump relay above the fusebox, not only because the mk1 relay has a rev limiter in it but also because the early fusebox is total carp and will melt the fuel pump power pin eventually.

the alternative is bin the old fusebox and convert to later mk1 fusebox, or even ce2 fusebox from later mk2 and mk3. your call on that one!

most of what I wrote before still applies, but fusebox pin numbers differ. for ignition live to the isv unit, throttle switch and over-run valve you can use the spade G/3 on the back, but put an inline fuse on it.

for the fuel pump relay get a VW socket from a car in scrappy, look at mk2, mk3, later mk1 etc you want one that will clip neatly above your fusebox. then get a switched relay (e.g. vw #53), wire it like so:
30 - live
85/31 - to ecu red/yellow wire
86 - ignition live
87 - to fuel pump(s) and WUR (fit an inline fuse!)

you'll probably find that your old car was points ignition, if so the old resistor wire will need binning. check the coil +ve if its got a purple/white wire to it, cut that out and bin, then run a fresh ignition live to it. make sure you have the mk2 coil, as the mk1 coil is wrong for electronic ignition and the 16v leads wont fit it properly. any later mk2 coil will do if you dont have the 16v one. just look in the end of the spark lead hole and make sure it has a pin in the middle of it

think that about covers it!

This is the state of the looms I have, I've done this cos an auto electrician had a go before me and I dont know how he left it

What I cant see is the from my knowledge 5th injector, the throttle thingy and crank sensor stuff…. maybe i'm wrong I dunno

16v loom


Think this is a mk1 golf gti loom half adapted


This is another loom of which I'm not sure the origin


This is the original loom from the rocco

have a look at the fusebox sticky that should help you decode the unknown pins.

on the mk2 the 5th injector and cold throttle enrichment valve are connected to the starter motor pin 15a, which is cranking live but with diode so voltage cant backfeed into the starter and trigger it. You need a later 8v or 16v starter motor with 2 spades on it for this to work properly.

the 5th injector thermoswitch needs a cranking feed from the starter motor red/black or another wire from fusebox (wired the as the old mk1/rocco k-jet for this basically)

then run the other wires as per my posts above, if you dont even have the isv control unit then that will simplify things. a mk1 aav supposedly works ok on a 16v, if you go this way it needs fuel pump live and earth same as the wur (again wire it as per mk1/rocco wur was)

Well thank you for helping me out with this ive read it through a fair few times now. i just have not the first clue what i'm doing imho even with all this guidance… i feel i should find a professional and arm them with this. i spoke to regal in southampton tonight they weren't at all interested, do you know anywhere else off chance?.

basically, what i would do if i was you is get an unbutchered mk1 gti loom from a car with electronic ignition, this will have all the cold start bits you need you'll just have to change the routing a bit. the 16v ecu loom will drop in the same way the old electronic ignition loom was fittedwithout any messing about splicing things, simple.

then either swap the isv for a mk1 AAV, give it fuel pump live and earth (tap into the WUR feeds) or fit mk2 16v isv control unit.

the isv control unit loom is totally self-contained once you strip it out of the donor 16v loom, except you need to give it a couple ignition live feeds. done

I'd like to upgrade the fusebox really to something later. And if I'm gonna do that, I might forget it all and get myself a 20v setup. That way I could start over with a later CE2 fusebox & gti engine harness, with Qpeng wiring.

I've been thinking all this work to put in an engine thats pretty aged now, and cost £100. The exhaust, gearbox, driveshafts, fuel supply, radiator I can keep.

Intercooler, mounts, and a downpipe - am I wrong?

Maybe i'm just frustrated…..

ok well thats up to you of course, I woudl certainly upgrade to a CE1 fusebox at least as the old ceramic one is a large pile of poo

you might want to go about it in stages though, CE2 fusebox but with your 16v engine, then from there work your way to a 20v lump, as the 16v is a lot simpler!

if you do go for a 20v and have the old 020 gearbox I'd recommend you change it for 02a or 02j, as the 020 cant really handle 20v power!

Yeah adding it up now I think a 20v swap is a future thing.

So I take it I can use any mk2/mk3 gti fusebox and engine loom? I'd prefer to use the latest posible.

Are there issues with immobilisers or mk3's?

Theres a good guide on vortex for the fusebox upgrades so i'll follow that for what parts of the loom i will need because it mentions getting the instrumnent cluster wiring too.

any mk2 or mk3 will do as no matter which you pick there will be a lot of work needed to make it fit, most of the wires will be too short as mk2/3 fusebox is on driver side

immobiliser is part of the ecu mk3/4 so it makes no odds.

cluster wise mk2 is close fit into mk1 and looks right in the dash, or just stick with mk1 if you like. mk3/4 more work but not so bad, your call on if you want to fit or not

okay…….

i've found a mk2 gti breaking and the guy is gonna let me take out the wiring myself, so i'm just gonna take every wire and loom so i dont miss anything.

Is there anything i will need to be careful with especially or label up etc u think?

main thing is try not to cut anything! the tailgate loom unplugs at the c pillars, interior light at the a pillar. there might be heated washer jet wiring that goes across under the dash you can just snip the black wire for that if you liek as mk1 dont have heated washer jets.

if its a non gti take the indicators as they have different plugs on, if its a gti you'll need 90spec non-gti indicators for an easy life.

sidelight bulb holders pinch again different plugs

I thought i'd have a mk2 loom in my hands by Sat, but it didnt happen, so i just went through the current wiring in the rocco, and labelled looms D, E & F. The rest i'm a bit stumped with. At some point a towbar was installed, so I think theres some wiring for that, and an extra fuse, so i think thats what makes up the wiring on the spare blade locations - unless i'm wrong?

And the Relay on the left is for the rear wiper, the rest I dont know - any help?

best i can make out its a switched live relay, for what I cant say as it seems the output doesnt actually do anything right now. the purple/black seems to be the output to the top fuse, but the other end of the fuse goes nowhere?

but at the end of the day if its all coming out dont worry, the mk2 fusebox will have all the feeds you need for the factory equipment direct. you can worry about the extras later, if you have any!

Righty heres the situation mk3 gti ADY scourced, currently taking the ecu fbox and all looms i can get my hands on. i will splice the early mk1 dash and rear looms in and then convert the ady injection wiring to kjet. thats the bit i will find rreally tricky i think!