Clipper question

Hi,

Just joined the site and wanted to ask for any tips on what to look out for when buying a clipper? Seen a few about on ebay etc but most have no service history ranging from about 70k - 120k miles for a 1990 car. any help would be great

Cheers

First thing, make sure you're happy with the performance of a clipper, if you're not then buy a GTI cabby.

There's a buyers guide on the homepage which should cover everything else.

the clipper is quick enough too,ive got one and its well nippy
Bert

loads of people buy one then come on here asking how they can make them faster!

They're quick enough for me too, but some people….u know….

paul_c said

loads of people buy one then come on here asking how they can make them faster!

They're quick enough for me too, but some people….u know….

if you want to make it quicker without a engine change then the clipper is the best one as their is no injection system to think about as the clipper only has a manifold and a carb
to make way for the twin 40s

pmw123 said

paul_c said

loads of people buy one then come on here asking how they can make them faster!

They're quick enough for me too, but some people….u know….

if you want to make it quicker without a engine change then the clipper is the best one as their is no injection system to think about as the clipper only has a manifold and a carb
to make way for the twin 40s

Fear of K-Jet? GTI is tunable too, and has +22bhp to start with.

i got a clipper mine has polished head on it(came like it) goes well i think i don't wot there like standard can't image much slower

Put it this way they will both do over 70 MPH, just one gets there a little quicker.
I have an Clipper Auto and it's fast enough.
depends on your preference.

depending on your skill set, will help you decide what you are capable of undertaking yourself.
Example your good at welding/painting, so not worried about bodywork etc etc.
A good hood is a must, as a leaky one that has been leaking for a while means smelly carpets, soggy seats and damp floors etc etc.
Of course budget is your limitation.
I would say it's fair to say that what ever you buy you will generally end up sorting some problem out.
There are so many knowledgable people on here, so you can allways ask.

To do a complete hood from top to bottom can cost over £600.00 from a company, doing your self at least half the price.
When I got mine the body was great, a few dings etc but you are buying a 20 year old car, so be realistic.
I was told it had a new hood, not true it leaked, but I did not know the difference, buyer beware.
If it's too good to be true it generally is.
This pales away when you have the top down and driving it…

paul_c said

loads of people buy one then come on here asking how they can make them faster!

They're quick enough for me too, but some people….u know….

stick a weber on  
mines still on pierburg and it runs    shame the choke never seems to quit  :?
Bert

TheButler78 said

Hi,

Just joined the site and wanted to ask for any tips on what to look out for when buying a clipper? Seen a few about on ebay etc but most have no service history ranging from about 70k - 120k miles for a 1990 car. any help would be great

Cheers

Mileage is irrelevant, condition is everything. The youngest are 18 years old; look at any project thread on here and see just how much can change on a car in a matter of months; what you see at the time of purchase may have no relationship to the car it was a few months or years earlier!

Look for correct operation of power roof and windows on models equipped as such, look for rust on the arches behind the kit on the big-bumper ones, and make sure the carb is behaving itself (mine isn't, for example, but I've said so in my ad - probably why I haven't sold my car, but I'm not a fan of lying and letting the buyer figure it out). Everything else is as per any Mk 1 cabrio; rust, gearbox, roof condition.

As they're all nuts to insure, personally I'd have started out with an injected car from the beginning - but that's because I prefer injection to work on. When they go wrong it can be equally expensive and they're less tolerant of muck in the tank etc.

Not sure why people are talking about racing cabriolets?… :?
With the roof down, its a pleasurable drive to wherever you're going, same thing goes for camper vans.. How can you be in such a rush in a vehicle which is was never designed to be thrashed to within an inch of its life?.. I do have the GTI block in mine, but the clipper is plenty fast enough.. I had a 1.6 carb cabby a few years ago and even that was plenty fast enough.. They flex and can give the odd rattle or squeak, so it doesn't beg to be thrashed..

My advice on buying one would be to get as new as possible, perhaps I should re phrase that, as new condition as possible. One that has been garaged all its life, loved and cherrished, not restored. The person selling a car is every bit as important as the car itself. If they are meticulous, you will tell by how they live, I always like to see where a car has lived and the person who owns it.. FSH is one thing stamped in a book, but knowing the seller is the kind of guy who will not put up with even the slightest thing wrong is worth a lot more in my opinion..

very sound advise walt,

walt said

 FSH is one thing stamped in a book, but knowing the seller is the kind of guy who will not put up with even the slightest thing wrong is worth a lot more in my opinion..

I'm doubling the price of mine now. My Citroën dealer will act as reference