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No spark, full rebuild

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Hi all. 

I have a '83 GTI with a 2e 2.0 8v on bike carbs. It was running in my mk3 before I broke it for parts. The mk1 was stripped when I bought it. The loom had been butchered a bit but I've squared it all up. 

I have fitted a new ICM, coil, lead, plugs, dizzy, rotor and cap. 

I have the two black wires to +ve and the red/black and green to the -ve in the coil. The hall sender wiring has been joined and got continuity to the ICM. 

I have watched the mk1 ignition video on YouTube. I'm getting temporary voltage across the two outer poles on the hall sender plug when ignition is switched on. I can't get a spark. It seems like the hall sender isn't creating a signal to fire back to earth the coil. 

The test on the middle pole from the YouTube, where you get temporary 5v on the hall sender plug didn't return anything. That's the only thing that didn't check out from that video. 

Does anyone have any ideas what I can try? All the rest of the wiring (bar dash illumination) is done. 

Thanks all 
Justin

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On a normal 1.8V hall generator, the outer 2 pins are +ve and -ve  the center pin is 11V to 0V when the distributor is rotated.  A solid voltage means to me that 1 you are measuring it wrong or that it is bad.

If your car is in static time. So the Rotor is in the middle of the hash.
Loosen the Dizzy clamp.
Measure the Center pin of the Hall generator, to ground.
Rotate the Diz and you should see the Hall signal go from 0-to something usually 11V.  If it dosen't then you have a bad diz or some other wiring issues.  The Hall wire is usually white/green.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

On a normal 1.8V hall generator, the outer 2 pins are +ve and -ve  the center pin is 11V to 0V when the distributor is rotated.  A solid voltage means to me that 1 you are measuring it wrong or that it is bad.

If your car is in static time. So the Rotor is in the middle of the hash.
Loosen the Dizzy clamp.
Measure the Center pin of the Hall generator, to ground.
Rotate the Diz and you should see the Hall signal go from 0-to something usually 11V.  If it dosen't then you have a bad diz or some other wiring issues.  The Hall wire is usually white/green.


Hi Brian

I will give that a go tonight. Thank you

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Forgot.  

Remove the connector off the Diz, then remove the rubber cap to get to the center wire. Replace the Connector on the diz.



When you measure it, you have to have the key in the run position.

You are measuring the voltage from between the center pin, and Frame Ground.  

Have you verified that your grounds are good?

Try my Quick test.
Briano's Quick Grounds test. | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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I checked that all out Brian. I seem to be getting power and earth in all of the right places. 

I put it all back together and it eventually coughed and spluttered into life for about 2 seconds. I rechecked all the connections and it struck up and ran for 5-10 seconds and died (could have been let off the choke too soon). 

I got very excited. 

Now it won't start again 😭😭 

But it's progress. 

Thank you very much for your help. 

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Turns out I've lost spark again. 

🤬
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