Ignition problems

Heya !

First question here, to which i very much do hope someone has an answer.

my 87 cabriolet (K-jet) has had many mnay different problems over the years, and now the k-jet and or the fuel pressure regulator and or the boost valve / frequency valve (people call it different things i noticed)

for whatever reason the car started but ran at 200rpm and not a tick higher, hitting the gas was a misfiring fest. since then i checked the timing marks, which all seem to line up (didnt check the gear that rotates the oil pump and then the distributor.

i cleaned the k-jet, that now flows through quite good, im in the middle of replacing some fuel lines. None of them leak but just to be sure, woudnt want a fire.

took out the distributor, didnt touch anything on it and put it back exactly how it was, now it magically runs around 1000-1100 rpm stationairy, any throttle reverts to the misfiring fest (doesnt run too well stationary also)

then i found out i could use the loose plug at the frequency valve to set my fuel air mixture, when plugging my multimeter (on dwell 4 cyl ) into said plug it doesnt change from the 90 degrees that it always shows.

now my main question is, how will i get that plug working to fix my air fuel mixture.

and if anyone knows anything more to check, i would be very happy in both cases, because im throwing wrenches at this point.

Toodles! and thanks!

Since you took out the DIzzy, I would first say to SET Static timing.
Manually move the engine
Finger on tranny is at (o) TDV mark
Cam Dimple on rear of the Cam Gear is even with the Valve cover tin.
The Rotor of the Diz is in the middle of the hash Stamp in the Case of the Diz.

Until you verify the time, everything else is wasted effort.

Heya! thanks for the reply!

i forgot to mention 2 things, when i took the dizzy out, it was almost 180 degrees from said mark.and it went in the exact same position, went to check if the rubber grommet had fubar'd.

just checked the marks on the engine and the gears, they all line up except the cam gear, that dimple is about 4/5 teeth further up than it should be

if i remove the belt carefully, can i simply pull the cam gear back by hand and then shove the belt onto it again? or will i put something else out of timing,

i will add some images of the things i said

Thanks again! now i know im not crazy xD

Well if'n it was me.

Set the tranny finger to (0)
Loosen the Tensioner slack the belt and remove it from the Intermediate gear.
Take the belt off the cam and set the Cam Dimple to be even with the valve cover tin.
Move the intermediate gear so the diz is in the middle of the hash stamp
Replace the belt on the Cam, and the intermediate shaft verify that the marks are still correct, tighten the tensioner for 1/2 twist of the belt between the intermediate gear and the Cam.  Tighten the thing rotate the crank 2-4 times and check the marks again.

Your car is out of time.

See http://cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf

The answer is that you can loosen the tensioner, and position the cam to the correct spot then replace the belt and you should be good to go.

Splendid!

The knowledgeable people like you make this hobby actually doable.

i know about 32% of all knowledge needed about cars,  but i know that the cam gear doesnt spin the dizzy.

can i simply do the same thing for the gear that does move the dizzy (take off belt, put them correctly and reattach said belt?

5 stars to you!

does not really matter about the balance shaft you can remove the distributor then refit it with the rotor arm pointing at the scribe mark for number one

Yes, to slipping intermediate shaft

The timing dot on the cam shaft for an 1987 car is on the other side of the cog in the picture.
There is dots on both sides as the same cog is used for the intermediate shaft to save VW making different parts.

The dot lines up with the top of head, check the cam lobs on cylinder 1 are both pointing up so both valves are closed.

Pictures from my 1988 car.

View topic: Help confused- Timing marks - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

So! i went and had a look at all the markings that were (and werent) aligned, i added a picture to explain how & what.

Correct me if im wrong, i know alot less about cars than i first thought i did!

Orange = camshaft gear
Red = belt spanner / tensioner
Blue = intermediate / pulley shaft

The drawing in top right is what my dizzy looks like at the moment, purple mark is where the hash mark is, green is where were facing now!

what ive found so far :

When at TDC the diamond shaped mark lines up in the gearbox inspection hole.

the camshaft gear is about 4-5 teeth from the cover (put a line roughly where that would be in orange and a dot where it is now).

The belt tensioner looks to be functioning as it should. belt isnt too loose nor too tight.

the pulley all the way at the bottom lines at TDC up with the mark on the plastic casing in front of it. it does not line up with the intermediate shaft however.

for the record, what i think i need to do now is remove belt, align cam shaft gear with the lid-cover.

Then align the pulley with the mark on the plastic cover, then align the intermediate gear with the mark on the lower pulley, and somewhere in that chaos get the dizzy to point at the hash mark! Correct?

i hope thats correct xD

Thanks ladds!

EDIT : mark1gls said that the marking on the cam shaft gear isnt the correct one since its used for both the intermediate shaft & cam shaft gear. this drawing was made with the assumption that the outer marking was the correct one, ill correct myself when im at the car again!

Before doing anything else remove the rocker cover and look at the camshaft as that will let you know if the dot is right.
To adjust the cambelt you will need to remove the water pump pulley and crank pulley to remove the lower plastic cover.
Undo the water pump pulley Allen key bolts when the alternator belt is still on the car to help hold the pulley.

I can't see any new drawings so not sure what you are referring to in your last post???

The diamond mark on flywheel is 6 btdc  you are looking for (0) stamp to the right of that.  

excuse moi gentlemen!

the picture for whatever reason didnt upload with my latest message,

I have checked everything today, all timing marks align as they should and nothing is off.

Thats a good thing right?

well not persee, my rotor is still pointing about 50 degrees from the hash mark and everything else is timed perfectly.

A shop near me did a quick check on it since i was at a jobsite next to it, they also said everything timing wise was fine.

which then brings me to the problem, the engine runs perfectly on idle now, a nice 1200 rpm when cold. and about 1100 when warm.

any throttle above 2000-2500 is a no go, it doesnt misfire anymore but it holds its power in? (if i worded that correctly, non native english speaker)

had 2 vacuum leaks that did help some with running on idle, but havent found anything yet that fixes the throttle problem yet

* This problem started about 3 weeks after the K-Jetronic unit was disassembled, not the split unit itself, just the 6 bolts holding it to the bottom part, removed it so they could clean the big plunger thing inside, which had some oil in it?

* Can not check the air fuel mixture via the frequency valve since i still dont get a reading from that plug (Understandable since i havent done a damn thing to it and dont know where to start)

anyone have any idea what to check next?


Superb help here guys, without you alot more wrenches would have been thrown


Thanks again!

Its been a minute, i have checked just about everything. ive found some trouble and stuff so ! :

the engine was about 28 degrees of in the end, set the time again. this now stays where its at (yes replaced the belt tensionner)

the 'distribution head' of the injecton unit was installed incorrectly the last time someone had that open, the rubber O-ring was split. (cleaned and replaced)

the incomming line from the fuel filter to said 'distribution head' leaked enough fuel to properly burn the car down, this line and crush washer was replaced.

replaced : Injectors, injector O-rings, cap, rotor, lightning wires, spark plugs and the coil.

It wanted to start, on full throttle it ran at about 400 rpm and very stuttery with the occasional spike in rpm.

meassured the injectors, they were ''okay ish'' not perfect but good enough. AKA replaced them.

when i got to the fuel pump & pressure regulator and tested them the following came out : pressure regulator was fine since that was replaced a month or 4 ago, the pump however! my haynes manual says the system needs 6.5 bar and at full only sent out about 4.7 / 4.8.

new pump is on the way, if this doesnt fix it an 87 golf cabriolet will be found at the bottom of my closest lake!

anyone have anything else i could check or do?

Marauder said

new pump is on the way, if this doesnt fix it an 87 golf cabriolet will be found at the bottom of my closest lake!

lolololol  we all have been there a time or three.  Thank you as I needed the laugh today…Had to have a wound debrided today, wasn't fun at all.

sounds like alot of fun!

debridement of a wound doesnt happen on purpose, what happend?

I had to have a femoral artery by-pass, I was cut open from groin to about 5 inches above the ankle, about 50 staples.

Part of the surgical scar opened up due to infection.
So it is that part that they clean it out, and pack it.  So it is doing better…Still ugly, and Chick dig scars.   The IV's and Antibiotics were worse than the by-pass.

sounds lovely xD

hoping for a speedy recovery my friend!

Briano1234 said

I had to have a femoral artery by-pass, I was cut open from groin to about 5 inches above the ankle, about 50 staples.

Part of the surgical scar opened up due to infection.
So it is that part that they clean it out, and pack it.  So it is doing better…Still ugly, and Chick dig scars.   The IV's and Antibiotics were worse than the by-pass.

That doesn't sound great sir, glad to hear you are on the mend though. Sending positive thoughts across the pond!

J

TYVM.