Carb to injection

hi all i am planning on changing my 1800(with 2L head) carb to injection. I have the injectors,throttles and im planning on getting the dicktator management. I wanna know what else i will need and the procedure of it all. Please i would really appreciate your time and knowledge on this. Please refrain from telling me to swap motors instead, please could u stick to the question. Thank you. 

I just been searching as I could swear there was a carb to injection guide on here - but I can't see it!!

Sorry can't help more

rubjonny may be able to help you  

What kind of injection system you are planning to install ?

Diktator management

hardest/expensivest part is probably the fuel side, since space under the car is tight and oem parts are getting more rare.

with the carb tank you can use a post-84 cab/rocco or g40 shape polo lifter pump and swirl pot under the car, piped to your main pump which can be oem mk1 or aftermarket inline type (basically the same thing)

alternatively some kind of facet woudl probably be able to drw the fuel out of the tank no problem, fed to a pot of some kind to keep your main pump well fed and happy. need a filter after the pump, id go for a mk2 digifant/mk3 type but plenty injection filters out there to choose from.

fuel line new rubber front to back, or maybe bag some mk2/polo plastic lines apparently they can fit well with new rubber ends

If its CE1 wiring wise I would use oem relay socket and fuse, pop a 67/80/167 relay in there and wire up your ecu trigger wire to the purple/black in pin D/13. fuel pump power goes to E/14, if you add a 2nd wire with a male spade this is OEM way to feed engien loom with pump power, say for lambda heater. OEM looms use fuel pump relay power feed from N spade for injectors, its unfused which VW thought was fine but feel free to add a fuse if you want.

I'd put ecu relay above the fusebox to give it lots of stable power, with fuse. rest of the loom depends on what sensors and configuration you want to run

So I don't necessarily need another fuel tank because carb tanks are piped at the top? What if i just install an external pump on the line, won't that be sufficient enough?

yes sorry to make it a bit more clear, if you use the lifter pump i mention it drops in the top, the later cab/rocco have the same tank for them all so its a tried n tested route.  

or some kind of aftermarket pre-supply pump which dont mind pumping fuel up out from the top of the tank. the main pumps generally dont last long if they are asked to do this and/or dont have a swirl pot in the system to prevent starvation when cornering

the mk1 tintop gti has a swirl pot inside and main pump is connected direct to the outlet on the bottom. the trouble is original tanks will probably have lost all the rubber seals on the pot which stops them working.

the aftermarket GTI tank swirlpot design is a primitive metal cup spot welded on the bottom. some people have reported issues running them. though with EFI this may not be quite so critical as when used on kjet injection?

I appreciate you being soo informative but as im a newbie, i dont fully know and understand most of the things that u are saying. But just let me know if this will work... With my 1995 golf 1 I install a pump outside of the tank to suck the fuel to the intake just as on a carburetor uses a vacuum to suck the fuel from the tank? If that wont work please explain why and tell me in the simplest of ways of what i can do? Thank u

if you can find a main pump which is happy to pull fuel up out of the tank and wont be damaged if it runs dry yes you can use a single external pump

the OEM VW pumps and many aftermarket pumps need a little pot before the pump to keep it fed, this pot is filled by the fuel pump inside the tank. that way if you corner hard, the main pump always has fuel supply and doesnt have to work hard drawing fuel up from the tank

But I've got a 1995 carb so isnt I dont have a submersible pump inside the fuel tank? the fuel just gets sucked out by the carb's vacuum

carb engines have a mechanical fuel pump bolted to the front/rear of the engine block which sucks the fuel out.

so you either need a lift pump-> reservoir-> main pump, same as the post-84 cab/scirocco. or find a main pump which is ok with drawing fuel directly up out of the fuel tank

On a side note.
I own a 92 Cabriolet that the Main Fuel Pump died 2 weeks before Christmas… (twice in seven years).

It has as OEM 2 Fuel Pumps in-tank, and External.
Both are rated the same as in Flow and pressure. The latter use 45psi (digi) where as the CIS uses 75psi.

I converted it to a single in-tank pump rated at 45 psi and the same flow rate.  Along the way I stripped the sump/swirl/filter off and ran it from the tank-filter-fuel pressure regulator…. worked just fine the single pump cost 55 dollars, vs 50 for intank, and 350 for the main.

After 7 years I had the conversion pump fail, but it didn't fail for failing it failed because the screen over the intake plugged with debris.  I bore-scoped the fuel tank with my digital camera inspection tool and there was no rubber from anything in my fuel system, so I suspect that the Debris was from when my son last filled it.

With converting the beastie, I did notice that if I was @ 1/3 tank, on high speed turns, the engine would starve for fuel until I returned to normal…flat driving… small price to pay for a cheaper replacement part at 1/4 it may happen on hills.  I suppose I could of re-fitted a sump/swirl/filter on it so the single pump was filling it prior to the filter, but…removing the 20+ fuel hoses and such was Marvy….   I know this pump with a regulator will deliver 85psi, at the rated flow…. Just saying there are many ways to skin a canary, it all depends on how much meat you want left on the bone.  :}

Whenever my 93 main pump craps out, I will be doing the same conversion to it…..

Okay thank you for that. Can you tell me what sensors i would need when changing to injection?

this would depend on the eCU, check the manuals included with it and the tech support

usually there will be a coolant temp sensor at least, and trigger feed from crank sensor or dizzy hall sensor. might require a throttle position sensor, inlet air temp etc etc. soem ecu have multiple options for sensors, triggers and spark output systems it all comes down to your engien and your preference.

for example on your engine the trigger would need to come from a dizzy hall sensor for an easy life, as crank sensor would require custom work. ideally you would switch the dizzy out for a dumb unit from a digifant engine, i.e. no vacuum or weights advance as those would mess with the ecu calculations I expect. you may be able to open the dizzy and strip out all the internals, not sure? the vacuum unit certainly comes off but not sure on the weights system.

spark oputput you can usually set them up to trigger the vw ignition amplifier, or you coudl repalce it for a wasted spark off say a ford, or whatever