Temperature warning light constant flashing
Posted
#1548024
(In Topic #207231)
Guest user
Temperature warning light flashing constantly
Can anyone help me please my temperature light flashes all the time this has only come on recently it comes on the moment you start the engine even when from cold. I have recently pur new radiator waterpump thermostat header tank and i know all these are fine and the car does not run hot .fan kicks in as normal. But the light flashing is off putting .. any sugestions or help please.
Iam wondering myself if its an earth fault as i discovered a earth strap lose from the engine bay ???
Iam wondering myself if its an earth fault as i discovered a earth strap lose from the engine bay ???
Posted
Local Hero
Yes, it's a common problem, can be a variety of causes.
If you do a search on the forums using the Google search option in here (scroll down the page you are on until you get to the black section and you will see it - well certainly if you are looing via a tablet/iPad, not sure if other devices it looks same) and then type in temperature light flashing you wil get lots of topics to look at.
This is just one of them, with a solution, you will fing others with different issue fixes.
View topic: Temp warning light flashing - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
If you do a search on the forums using the Google search option in here (scroll down the page you are on until you get to the black section and you will see it - well certainly if you are looing via a tablet/iPad, not sure if other devices it looks same) and then type in temperature light flashing you wil get lots of topics to look at.
This is just one of them, with a solution, you will fing others with different issue fixes.
View topic: Temp warning light flashing - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
Golf GTI Campaign 1983 Mars Red, Ford S-Max 2015, Audi TT 180 quattro 2003, Fiat 500C 2013, Golf GTE MK7.5
Posted
MOTY 2013
if it has ,low coolant sensor in header tank unplug it and bridge the 2 pins together. if that doesnt help try pulling out the 42 or 43 relay above the fusebox.
if shorting the plug stops it remove the level sender and clean the pins. if still not fixed replace the senszor
if shorting the plug stops it remove the level sender and clean the pins. if still not fixed replace the senszor
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Local Hero
rubjonny said
if it has ,low coolant sensor in header tank unplug it and bridge the 2 pins together. if that doesnt help try pulling out the 42 or 43 relay above the fusebox.
if shorting the plug stops it remove the level sender and clean the pins. if still not fixed replace the senszor
It isn't a dead short, bot about 150 ohms.
If the coolant sensor in the tank can be removed you can try cleaning the pins of the sensor, they can get calcified and stop working..Cleaning them is a good thing. Also if you aren't using a 50/50 blend of A/F to water, you can change the value of the resistance of the coolant and cause the same thing as you are describing. Too Straight mix of AF causes issue and too much H2O to coolant will cause funny things to happen as well it is like the "BABY BEAR" and has to be Just right.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
MOTY 2013
aye but if you short the pins on the plug together this tells you if its a problem with the level sender side of the circuit, or an issue with the wiring, sensor or the control relay
one thing that can happen is the level sensor splits at the pins and coolant gradually works its way up the wires and rots out the control relay, I've seen it often on wiring looms I've had in for conversion
another issue I've had is with a faulty coolant temp sensor causing the light to be triggered. even though the dash gauge reads perfectly fine, some kind of problem with it triggered the light even when the engine was started cold. I went crazy messing about trying to figure out the issue, before I finally resorted to trying the temperature sensor from my own car and problem solved!
All I can think of was it was starting to fail inside and would intermittently short to ground, triggering the warning. but not for long enough that the actual reading would change on the cluster
one thing that can happen is the level sensor splits at the pins and coolant gradually works its way up the wires and rots out the control relay, I've seen it often on wiring looms I've had in for conversion
another issue I've had is with a faulty coolant temp sensor causing the light to be triggered. even though the dash gauge reads perfectly fine, some kind of problem with it triggered the light even when the engine was started cold. I went crazy messing about trying to figure out the issue, before I finally resorted to trying the temperature sensor from my own car and problem solved!
All I can think of was it was starting to fail inside and would intermittently short to ground, triggering the warning. but not for long enough that the actual reading would change on the cluster
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Guest user
Thanks a lot guys i solved the problem turns out to be the sender plug had slight corossion so i cleaned it up and now works fine .thanks everyone for your hrlp/solutions
Posted
Settling In
Good Day gents Ryan here I'm new to the site my problem I'm having is the red lihgt on the water temp gauge doesn't come on at all how ever if I put 9v directly to it ,then it works
Posted
Local Hero
Year an model are nice to know, as the latter Cabriolets had a low coolant switch in the expansion jug.
But some of the earlier ones had a Gauge test circuit, and some don't.
The Coolant temp circuit sender can get flaky, or bad and that is on the water outlet flange, and usually black single pin connector. The wires get brittle with age, and
loose tension or break if man handled.
You didn't state where you put 9V on it at so I can't guess where the issue is.
Water Temp gauges get internally cold solder joints that make them erratic/flakey/non-functional.
In the archive section How-to's or click the link on my signature and I list the typical issues that I have seen with them.
But some of the earlier ones had a Gauge test circuit, and some don't.
The Coolant temp circuit sender can get flaky, or bad and that is on the water outlet flange, and usually black single pin connector. The wires get brittle with age, and
loose tension or break if man handled.
You didn't state where you put 9V on it at so I can't guess where the issue is.
Water Temp gauges get internally cold solder joints that make them erratic/flakey/non-functional.
In the archive section How-to's or click the link on my signature and I list the typical issues that I have seen with them.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
Briano1234 said
rubjonny said
if it has ,low coolant sensor in header tank unplug it and bridge the 2 pins together. if that doesnt help try pulling out the 42 or 43 relay above the fusebox.
if shorting the plug stops it remove the level sender and clean the pins. if still not fixed replace the senszor
It isn't a dead short, bot about 150 ohms.
If the coolant sensor in the tank can be removed you can try cleaning the pins of the sensor, they can get calcified and stop working..Cleaning them is a good thing. Also if you aren't using a 50/50 blend of A/F to water, you can change the value of the resistance of the coolant and cause the same thing as you are describing. Too Straight mix of AF causes issue and too much H2O to coolant will cause funny things to happen as well it is like the "BABY BEAR" and has to be Just right.
I have the exact opposite mine is the one with the coolant temp sensor I rebuild the cluster all new tem and feul Ganges the temp Ganges works fine but the red lihgt on it doesn't work at at all ,but if I take a 9v batry to the back of it positive to the right leg and negative to the center thin leg the lihgt works
Posted
Settling In
I have the exact opposite mine is the one with the coolant temp sensor I rebuild the cluster all new tem and feul Ganges the temp Ganges works fine but the red lihgt on it doesn't work at at all ,but if I take a 9v batry to the back of it positive to the right leg and negative to the center thin leg the lihgt works
Posted
MOTY 2013
does the gauge still work as expected? check all the nuts on the back of the gauge are tight and dont have insulating washers under them as they provide the electrical contact to the board
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
MOTY 2013
you should get a test flash ignition on, then if coolant is low (if you have the sensor and relay that controls it fitted) plus overheat
you can test the overheat warning by shorting the coolant temp sensor wire to ground, the gauge should go to full and light flash
you can test the overheat warning by shorting the coolant temp sensor wire to ground, the gauge should go to full and light flash
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Settling In
The gauge does go to full but no red light I will install new relay it's 43? If I'm not mistaken
Posted
MOTY 2013
43 is just to warn low coolant, if you get no light flash when shorted or test flash ignition on its a cluster/guage fault
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Settling In
But that's exactly my problem it doesn't flash when I turn on the ignition nore does it tests flash the gauge is brand new oe one witch is VDO
Posted
Local Hero
model and year are nice to know.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
Well the harness is from a CITI SHUTTLE THE CLUSTER IS FROM A 2009 CHICO BUT THE ENGINE IS NOW A 1.4 CARB AND THE BODY IS 2009 MODLE
Posted
Local Hero
Sorry but that is a little too new for me as my limits for MK1's are mostly VW Westy Rabbits and Diesels and 89-93 VW Cabriolets.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
EXZACTLY the citi shuttle is a 92 model and the wireing has remained EXZACTLY the same from 83 to 2009 in South africa
Posted
Settling In
So the wireing is from a 92 model
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.