Temp sensor cabling

Is this why my temp gauge on dashboard is flashing red? And what’s the best way to fix this? Parts available in uk??
Cheers





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You need a thing called a lucar connector. Come in sizes for different diameter wire- insulated - non insulated do a google search.. ebay is probably the best place for a few. You will need a crimp tool, but if you don't want to pay for one, a pair of pliers will do the job if you're careful

Thankyou. Found some. I will need to replace and extend the wire too as it’s all fragile and brittle- would you know the gauge of wire I need? And what type of connector I’d need to extend the wire?
Many thanks.


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In the Bentley it tells you the gauge of wire to the sender.

0.5, and I personally Solder and heat shrink all connections.  I suspect that you can use a butt-to-butt line splice if you have a good pair of crimpers.

Thanks Briano, I have Haynes manual but can’t see gauge. Anyway, no matter. I’ve order all connectors I need and crimping tool - they should arrive from Amazon tomorrow. Thankyou.

Bizarrely, today I fitted new thermostat, flushed coolant, replaced heater valve and heater valve cable, and the dashboard gauge light is now off! Not flashing at all: Even though the temperature gauge cable is still not reconnected. What does this tell us? Ffs the more I do the more I need to do.  


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The flashing light is to tell you the coolant level is low.

Are you sure? No one else has mentioned that. Is the dashboard getting that info from the coolant reservoir then? And if that is the case what is the temp sensor doing?


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The temp sensor is the one in your image, with the broken wire.

The coolant level sensor is on the coolant reservoir

Yeah the temp sensor is in my pic. So are you saying the temp gauge on the dashboard is getting its info from The sensor in the coolant reservoir? And if that’s the case What is the temp sensor in my pic doing?  


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Nah, the temp sensor in your pic sends to your temp gauge. It's a thermo switch which decreases in resistance with heat, hence if you put the wire direct to earth the temp gauge will go to max, because there is zero resistance when touching earth.

The coolant level switch in the reservoir turns the flashing light on, it's an on / off switch which floats , breaking contact , when the coolant level is good. It's built into the reservoir cap.

Ok thanks for that info. So if I don’t fix that loose cable what’s going to happen?


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If you don't fix the wire to the temp sensor your temp gauge won't work

We love the simplicity of analogue    

They are 2 separate items.
Yes if you aren't running 50/50 A/F to Water ratio the Coolant level switch can act flaky.  If you Haven't removed it and cleaned the tips shiny, as they get calcified they can act flaky.  If your coolant isn't at the seam line between the top and bottom of the expansion jug then on a turn, you can introduce a air bubble to interfere with the proper operation.  

Some older jugs and some replacements don't have a air bleed hole near the top so that the fluid level isn't subject to the air bubble.

You didn't post the year of your cabby, so I don't know if yours is equipped or not.

The Temp Sender in the picture, is disconnected by the broken wire, and the Gauge will  not Sense any temp.  If the wire is shorting then the gauge may blink and go full hot.  so repairing it is imperative.  Senders do go bad and they aren't that expensive. as it looks to be corroded cleaning the sensor and flange is also in order.

It’s an 1986 cabby - in
My signature.
So basically, the coolant level sensor controls the red flashing light on dashboard? And the temp sensor in my pic controls the needle on the temp gauge on the dashboard?


I will fix the loose cable tomorrow but how do I know if the temp sensor in pic is broken?


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True that.

If it was my car i would track the temp sensor wire back to good clean shiny copper wire, and solder an extension to it, and crimp a new "lucar" or spade connector to the end.

Then with the ignition on and a helper, hold the connector against a metal part of the engine while the helper shouts if the temp gauge goes to full hot. Which it should do, to prove your temp gauge is working ok.

Then a good clean up of the sender and connect. Then run the engine and watch the temp gauge , it should work and slowly rise with the engine temp..

If after all that the temp gauge doesn't move, then it indicates your temp sender is faulty

Thanks for all that. I just assumed ( and actually was advised by local mechanic) the  needle and red flashing light was all linked to temp sensor in my pic. So we’ve all learned something today.
Many thanks.
I’ll let you all know how repair goes…


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