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MK1 Golf GTi Timing Belt and Tensioner Replacement

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Replacement

Hi All,
Require some advice please.
I am replacing the timing belt of my GTi.
The question I have is the Tensioner.
The old one seems quite antique as the pic shows and appears to be badly worn as when I spin it, it takes ages to stop.
I purchased a new tensioner from Euro Car Parts but it did not come with the Tensioner bolt.
So to get the old Tensioner off I had to undo the bolt from the centre, eventually got it off and the bolt has a few score marks where I used my parrot nose pliers to turn anti clockwise.
So I fit the new tensioner over the old bolt (which I fit back to the engine block).
I found the threads stick out more due to difference in thickness, see pic attached.
Should I buy a new tensioner bolt or source a tensioner with a bolt (hard to find).
Quite confused. Want to do a good job one time.
Also can you advise which tool you use to tighten the Tensioner? The old one was so easy to work with. The new one has 2 small holes.
Please can you share your thoughts and experience.
Thanks.

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So decided to purchase the whole kit from euro car parts which includes the stud and managed to source a tensioner tool from eBay. Will provide update when complete.

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What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Thanks buddy. Useful info.

Ref timing marks, I'm relying on TDC on crankshaft pulley notch and cover as the flywheel "0" is not visible due to wear, however I can see BTDC diamond.

Then I'm using the distributor notch for TDC facing towards #1 spark and lining the dot of the intermediate shaft pulley with the crank shaft pulley.

Then I have the camshaft pulley. I think it's not the original as it does not have the dot, but has a notch 1mm wide I think. Before I took the belt off, I noticed the the bottom line of the notch lined with cyclinder head, not the cam cover as instructions refer. Not sure if this is due to wear and tear of belt? However in that position, both valves for #1 piston are closed. Will take pics tmrw.

Any advice will help. Thanks.

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A VW dealer will sell you a new genuine stud.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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not guite right for a 1.8

Dot on back side of cam at top of valve cover tin or flat of upper head.

Crank mark 0tdc on the pressure plate will need to remove the timing cover plug and plug holder

Place the dist rotor in the middle of the hash mark.

don't rely on cover marks….

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Brinz - According to the Mk2 manual new flywheels don't have the timing mark, they just have the TDC mark so are you sure the mark you can see is the timing mark and not the TDC.  The gap between the 6 degree mark and the TDC mark is 12.5mm.

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Hi Cedar,

Yes the MK1 flywheel shot have a punched dot which is the TDC and to the left is the BTDC diamond. Due to corrosion / pitting it was difficult to see the dot, however I could feel with my finger and marked it with Tippex. It lined up with crank shaft pulley notch on lower cover which shows the white arrow.

Managed to get a complete timing belt kit which includes the stud from eurocarparts. Lined all the components up to TDC and fitted belt. Started fine, actually appears to run a lot smoother than before. I need to double check with timing light.

Thanks for everyones help.

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Hi guys,
After successfully fitting the timing belt. Before setting the timing with a gun, can you please advise what the rpm should be at operating temperature for a MK1 Golf GTi, 1.8, DX Engine?
Also appreciate any advice or tips in setting the timing. I do have the Haynes manual, but sometimes it's best to known from experience.
Thanks.

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http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf

See Method 2, works well, and only a DVOM is needed after manually setting the timing to the marks.

I have used this in the past few times 30-40 of setting the timing on my cabbies (all three digi) but have heard from others that it works well on CIS

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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950 rpm when engine hot.

If the timing was alright before fitting the cambelt you should need to adjust it after fitting a new belt, if it's out and car not running right then you may be a tooth out?

Advance timing till the engine "pinks" under load then retard a little till the "pinking" stops.

Depending a what type of fuel you are using changes the timing setting.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Cheers Briano

Hi Mark1gls,
Is it possible to send a pic of where the needle should be when hot.
At the moment my needle sits on the notch between zero and 1000 rpm. But car is lumpy.
I need to get hold of portable tachometer.
I'm first planning to do a static timing check and then followed by strobe.
Cheers

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Hi Brinz - My opinion for what it's worth is get the belt right first, as Brian has said the notch on the cam wheel should be level with the valve cover flange. When you have that right get the timing set, don't bother with the static method use a timing light, you will probably find this is your main problem. Don't worry if the idle is lumpy, so long as the engine speed is around 900rpm you will be close, then get the CO set  Mine runs and idles best with the CO around 2.5%,  the plugs are a nice colour at that too.
Once you have it running reasonably well you can always fine tune it later.

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Ok managed to get the timing sorted using my strobe. Found the spark was almost at TDC, so set it now to 6 degrees BTDC and I noticed the difference straight away. Thanks for everyone's input.

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Glad you sorted it, the timing could of been out before as the pervious owner may of retarded the timing to run the car on normal unleaded?

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Sorry to bother everyone again. When engine is warm its fine, but when cold it takes a few cranks, little slugish then ok after a minute. Then starts ok. This has happened after setting the timing to factory standard. The car is running on super unleaded. Do i need to adjust the BTDC to a different degree?
A bit puzzled.

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I would wonder about residual pressure bleed off for that, as you have it running very well when warm.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Fuel accumulator?

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I will check with pressure gauge tomorrow

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I got a feeling that it may be due to running engine on unleaded fuel as these cars were designed to run on 4 star which burned quicker. Are there any advisories on setting timing on unleaded fuel for the Mk1 golf gti?
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