MK1 Golf GTi Fuel Gauge Reading

Hi there,

Noticed an issue with my 1983 MK1 Golf GTi, as soon as the fuel gauge needles lowers, just before the red reserve zone, it cuts out (starves). Then I add around 10 litres of fuel and it runs fine. I mean I don't even reach reserve and it cuts out.

It appears that when it cuts, the tank is probably completely empty, however the fuel indicator shows that it have plenty of reserve.

Before topping up with fuel, I will check tmrw by removing the gauge under seat to see how much fuel there is.

I remember last time I checked there was still 1/4 tank. The filters and inside appeared to be clean.

Any thoughts? Could it be a faulty fuel gauge or is there an adjustment to use reserve fuel?

Appreciate any help.

Thanks.

found this gem on the internet somewhere, it may not apply to a MK1 unit but its worth taking it out to check:

1 39 Ohms
2 63 Ohms
3 90 Ohms
4 139 Ohms
5 192 Ohms
6 287 Ohms

Thanks buddy. Will have a look at this

Do you have a fuel lift pump fitted to the fuel gauge sender?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK1-2-SCIROCCO-Electric-Fuel-lift-pump-In-tank-Mk2-Golf-Jetta-1-8-GTI-8V/182609876218?hash=item2a846594fa:g:4nQAAOSwTapV3ah4

Hi Mark1gls,
No I don't have a fuel lift pump fitted. I just have a simple 2 wire system as the pics show. Thanks.

Hi All,
So I took out the fuel sender unit, disassembled it and gave it a clean with carb cleaner and contact cleaner and assembled back together. I tested it by connecting the sender and switching on ignition and manually moving by hand and confirm that the sender moves the gauge up and down and is functioning correctly.

So before topping up fuel, I noticed there was some fuel in the tank (reserve) and for some reason my car does not like running in the red reserve zone. I added around 10 litres which shows near 1/2 tank and it runs fine.

Does anyone else have the same issue? Could.it be a weak fuel pump?

ok all looks well there then, have a look at the swirl pot inside the tank next. the oem tank has a plastic pot with rubber seals, the rubber falls apart over time and the pot will no longer work correctly. pattern tanks have a simple metal cup welded in the bottom which doesn't work as well as the original

inaccurate that is a lot of tarnish between the wiper finger and the pot.  I would imagine that you should clean that with alcohol and q-tips (cotton swabs).

Then verify that at 1/4 tank out of the tank it reads 1/4 tank on the gauge. You can bend the

Verify that your 10V stabiliser is putting out 10V on the back of the cluster and add a new ground to the cluster pin 2 usually brown, and tie that direct to fame behind the cluster.

Verify that your wiper arm is shiney as well, and that your solder connections on the movement are not cold soldered.

Lastly if you place a 9V DC battery placed on the seder plug brown ground and violet is +  that your gauge should deflect or move  to full usually more than full.

Here is mine that was showing more fuel than it had.

Repairing your Fuel Sending Unit | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Also make sure that your wiper finger is tight to the pot plate, amd smoothly moves with the same drag on the arm from ends scale to end scale.

lastly make sure that your flot isn't partially full of fuel.

Thanks for the info Briano123. Much appreciated.

I think the issue is something else.

In just started the car, ran ok for 2 mins (cold) and cut out. I tried to start it a few times and nothing. It cranks but the engine doesn't start.

In replaced the timing belt last week, all marks line up etc.

I checked the fuel pump relay, which I bought a few months back and it felt slightly warm. Since putting the new relay, I noticed the pump never primed before start, which I guess has to do with the relay.

Anyway I have doubts that the fuel pump is knackered, hence I had the earlier issue. Pure coincidence after replacing timing belt I guess.

I need to test the fuel pump. Have a feeling that it doesn't work when it warms up or maybe relay is faulty.

Ok so I stuck in relay 17 in  and guess what it started up. Appears to be a faulty fuel relay which I only purchased a few months back from eurocarparts. Could be a rubbish brand I think.

Any recommendations on where to purchase a good relay for a good price?

Thanks.

What fuel pump relay number are you after?
There is a few types depending on what car you have, some have fuses built in some prime the pump and some don't?

I found a good second hand genuine VW working relay from eBay.

It is a common problem with early cars without a lift pump and smaller fuel tanks to suffer from fuel starvation when below 1/4 and cornering especially if an aftermarket fuel tank has been fitted with out a swirl pot.
VW did change the design with later cars (cabriolets) with a bigger fuel tank (space saver spare wheel) as they fitted a lift pump and an external swirl pot to stop fuel starvation.

As with any old car and a metal fuel tank it’s not a good idea to run the fuel level low as you don’t want to suck up any dirt etc into the fuel injection system as it can get expensive when things go wrong… 

Hi,
I have a 1983 Mk1 Golf GTi, 1.8, K Jet, DX Engine Code.
I dont remember the number of the original relay. However, I remember it used to prime when turning on the ignition for  couple of secs.
So i would like to go for an original.
Appreciate if someone can advise the OEM part number
Thanks

http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Relays.pdf




From kammy's wonderful www.cabby-info.com

some relays prime the pump, some dont it makes no difference to the running of the car. you can ignore the top line of relays for the cis-lambda relay in brianos post, we dont have lambda on the MK1 GTI here

for the fuel relay you can use any of these: (Relay number, VW part number, kracker part number, GSF part number)
2 = 443906059A/321906059D/E = no limiter (superceeded by 321906059F)
3 = 443906059 = no limiter (superceeded by 321906059E/F)
62 = 443907385B/321906059G / 24.1400.30 & 3.300.220 / ? = 6.5k limiter
63 = 321906059F / 24.1400.20 / 935VG0090 = no limiter

if you get one with a limiter inside you use a plain rotor arm, without a limiter then technically you should also fit a limiter type rotor arm, or just try not to rev it too hard

Hi,
Thanks for the info.
VW Hertitage is selling the relay below, is this ok?

Eurocarparts accepted exchange for faulty one. The relay is a JP Group brand. Not sure if it is a good brand or not as I heard cheap brands don't last long.

thats for the older ceramic fusebox, since yours is an 83 its got the later ce1 type fusebox. Try all of those part numbers above in the vw heritage site

see how long the new one lasts, if it goes again i would say JP group is not a good brand

kraker or genuine VW are the brands I would look for