Instrument cluster - DIY repair or...?

Hi,

At somepoint after getting my cluster professionally checked over (and getting the all clear) ive managed to damage the mylar/pins at the connector interface.

Cluster currently isnt working when installed - no movement in either dial, no lights - only thing that is working is the clock. Speedo cable (visible when disconnected from rear of cluster) is rotating when engine running. (I should add this is a full project re-build, when I drove the car into my garage many years ago I think everything was working). Im ASSUMING issue is the damage shown circled in photo below (?). I've got a replacement 10v stablizer but one of the non-OEM ones that needs pins bent to suit. Before I do so, hoping someone can advise:
 

• 1. Is the damage shown a DIY fix, or do I need a professional repair?
• 2. Should the mylar/pin 'flap' at the connector interface be attached to the plastic insert behind it - i.e. some form of adhesive? Mine is loose, which may be the cause of the damage when inserting 'blindly' into the connector. I have taped the plastic connector insert as advised elsewhere, but havent tried reinstalling the cluster connection for fear of causing more damage.
• 3. Is it worth removing the mylar connecting bolts to clean up, in case theres a separate ground issue causing the faults? Looks all clean from visual inspection without removal, but not sure this is a good enough check.

Thanks in advance
Dylan 



 

You can try to straighten the pins, and get them to lay flat.

Clean the back side of the foils with alcohol and qtips.
Use a water resistant  super glue gel pin on the back side of one foil at a time, ans cover with wax paper and use a spring clamp (itty bity one it for about 10 minutes time for the glue to set.

Procede to the next pin

But if that is from a later cabby, the last pin number 14 is B+ and it looks to have shorted out to the Pin 13.  

But the Haynes or Bentley are going to be your saviout here as you will need to find out what the pins feed.

The also make self sticky copper foils that you might get to stick over the repar ot cut it out then splice it far enough away to use surface mount solder to solder the spliced foil to the original foils
It can be melted with a hair dryer. and considered a good contact.

Other wise you are going to have to splice in wire bypasses to a continue point on your board.

See my thread when this happened to me.

https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/90ish-cabriolet-mylar-repair-for-10v-stabilizer.60258/?post_id=531266#post-531266

Crude but effective, and never caused me grief.  I used insulated crimp connectors so I could remove my cluster

Briano1234 said

You can try to straighten the pins, and get them to lay flat.

Clean the back side of the foils with alcohol and qtips.
Use a water resistant  super glue gel pin on the back side of one foil at a time, ans cover with wax paper and use a spring clamp (itty bity one it for about 10 minutes time for the glue to set.

Procede to the next pin

But if that is from a later cabby, the last pin number 14 is B+ and it looks to have shorted out to the Pin 13.  

But the Haynes or Bentley are going to be your saviout here as you will need to find out what the pins feed.

The also make self sticky copper foils that you might get to stick over the repar ot cut it out then splice it far enough away to use surface mount solder to solder the spliced foil to the original foils
It can be melted with a hair dryer. and considered a good contact.

Other wise you are going to have to splice in wire bypasses to a continue point on your board.

See my thread when this happened to me.

https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/90ish-cabriolet-mylar-repair-for-10v-stabilizer.60258/?post_id=531266#post-531266

Crude but effective, and never caused me grief.  I used insulated crimp connectors so I could remove my cluster

Thanks for the advice, ill give that a go.