Helpppp!! Weber 36 tlp Carb spitting flames from rear

Hi…

I recently swapped a pierburg 1b auto choke carb with a weber 36tlp manual choke carb. After swapping the lines and fixing it into place… my engine overheats and smokes when i attempt to drive it merely 2 metres back and forth. It also spits flames out from the rear side of the carb and there is a brownish water-like fluid leaking from what seems to be around the exhaust manifold on the underside of the car towards the front at the backside of the bay.

I must mention that two hoses that once attached to the auto choke element to the peirburg carb are now left un attached to anything as I am not sure where these should go. How would I go about blocking them off as I believe they are no longer necessary.. . Or am I wrong? Are these fundamental to the cooling of the engine?

Runs great when sat idling.. issues arrise when driven.

If anybody has any pictures of how the weber 36tlp should be set up please don't hesitate to share so I can try and connect the dots.

It is a 1988 GL manual 1.5 cabriolet if this helps at all.

Thanks in advance!

Not up on that carb but on my Webber 34 DMTR I had a U shaped bit of metal which I joined the 2 coolant pipes together so the coolant flowed through 1 into the other.

Try and join the 2 pipes to stop the coolant escaping.

Was the Webber carb new out of the box?

If not I'm sure there is some instructions on the web if you google it.

It was new old stock as they were discontinued years ago

I cannot find any info on them on the web due to them being so hard to get hold of.

Maybe I could remove both hoses and just use one that is in the shape of a U connecting the two as they are side by side.

Does anybody have any idea what is causing the flames? Thanks

Any help?

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=big-block-carb-engines_2%2Fgot-a-new-weber-36-tlp

Page 20 seems to have some info on your carb.

http://www.citrina.lt/failai/tech/_bx/0908-04a.pdf
 

I have taken a look at the pdf and I am not entirely sure what would help my current issues. Surely flames being spat out etc isn't something that should happen due to a untuned carb?

Just realized my 1st link did not work..

This persons carb is spitting out fuel, something to do with the float?

(link fixed in my other post)  

I have connected together the two hoses that were disconnected and now it is starting to leak out of what seems to be the lower left radiator hose. It seems there is too much pressure building up. What is causing this?

Thanks Mark1gls I will have a look at the link

the flames could be your valve timing being out firing too early??
pressure could be a massive air lock in water system or worst case head gasket
but if its been ran with the two pipes open I would think air in system

vwoldmad1 said

the flames could be your valve timing being out firing too early??
pressure could be a massive air lock in water system or worst case head gasket
but if its been ran with the two pipes open I would think air in system

How would I remove the air from within the system? I don't think it will be a head gasket problem…

It seems to not be firing from the rear end of the carb anymore.

follow Haynes manual if you have one?
if not fill up with water/coolant and squeeze/purge all pipes to get air out while engine is running that's the basics
removing top hose from rad until theres just water running through helps too
all in the Haynes manual as I suck at explaining
hope you get it sorted

Set the heater control to hot and If you have an expansion tank which you fill the coolant from, take the cap off and start the car, let it run for a few minutes and give the hoses a squeeze, this should burp the system and when squeezing the hoses the coolant level in the tank should move and possible drop. Put the cap back on and get the engine hot so the fan comes on, keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
Let it cool down for a good few hours then check the coolant level again.

If you have a top fill radiator then it's a different way to get rid of the air.
I'll explain that if you have one?

.

mark1gls said

Set the heater control to hot and If you have an expansion tank which you fill the coolant from, take the cap off and start the car, let it run for a few minutes and give the hoses a squeeze, this should burp the system and when squeezing the hoses the coolant level in the tank should move and possible drop. Put the cap back on and get the engine hot so the fan comes on, keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
Let it cool down for a good few hours then check the coolant level again.

If you have a top fill radiator then it's a different way to get rid of the air.
I'll explain that if you have one?

I have a top fill radiator yes.. but I must mention that the interior is entirely stripped. No dash or anything as it is undergoing a restoration hence why I'm getting it running ok before removing the engine so I know it once ran well if that makes sense.

Thanks for your help everybody

Top fill radiator,
Set heater to control to hot, remove top radiator hose from the radiator end, fill up radiator then pour coolant into the end of the radiator hose so it goes straight into the engine, keep filling till you can see coolant in the hose then quickly push it on the radiator some coolant will come out the hose when you move it on to the radiator. Tighten clamp and squeeze bottom radiator hose several times and you should see the water level in the radiator move and then squeeze the top hose several times and the same should happen.
Start car the the cap off and keep an eye on the coolant level, let it run for a few minutes with the cap off and top up coolant level if needed.
Refit cap and get the car hot, then leave to cool down and recheck coolant level.

When the car get hot make sure you get hot air out of the heater and check all the hoses are getting hot, bottom radiator hose should be the last hose to hot as coolant should only flow through it once the thermostat has opened.

mark1gls said

Top fill radiator,
Set heater to control to hot, remove top radiator hose from the radiator end, fill up radiator then pour coolant into the end of the radiator hose so it goes straight into the engine, keep filling till you can see coolant in the hose then quickly push it on the radiator some coolant will come out the hose when you move it on to the radiator. Tighten clamp and squeeze bottom radiator hose several times and you should see the water level in the radiator move and then squeeze the top hose several times and the same should happen.
Start car the the cap off and keep an eye on the coolant level, let it run for a few minutes with the cap off and top up coolant level if needed.
Refit cap and get the car hot, then leave to cool down and recheck coolant level.

When the car get hot make sure you get hot air out of the heater and check all the hoses are getting hot, bottom radiator hose should be the last hose to hot as coolant should only flow through it once the thermostat has opened.

Thanks a bunch I will have a look later but like I said.. there isn't any heater controls. Interior is none existant. It is a bare shell with some wires.

There is the control/valve for the heater in the engine bay, when looking at the valve the metal bar needs to be closes to the cable clip end then the valve will be open.

Just found a link to one…
It should be in the same position as the one in this picture.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Heater-Control-Valve-Aixam-400-Audi-80-Coupe-Quattro-VW-Topran-102-654-755-/302208271801?fits=Model%3AGolf&epid=1427380615&hash=item465d0445b9:g:HV4AAOSw9OFZMuq0

mark1gls said

Top fill radiator,
Set heater to control to hot, remove top radiator hose from the radiator end, fill up radiator then pour coolant into the end of the radiator hose so it goes straight into the engine, keep filling till you can see coolant in the hose then quickly push it on the radiator some coolant will come out the hose when you move it on to the radiator. Tighten clamp and squeeze bottom radiator hose several times and you should see the water level in the radiator move and then squeeze the top hose several times and the same should happen.
Start car the the cap off and keep an eye on the coolant level, let it run for a few minutes with the cap off and top up coolant level if needed.
Refit cap and get the car hot, then leave to cool down and recheck coolant level.

When the car get hot make sure you get hot air out of the heater and check all the hoses are getting hot, bottom radiator hose should be the last hose to hot as coolant should only flow through it once the thermostat has opened.

i have managed to fix it. I had a play earlier and did what you suggested and it seems to have done the trick. Touch wood. I have also managed to fix all of the other issues so I will no longer need assistance on this post.

I appreciate all your help.

Thanks a bunch!

It's me again.. I thought I would submit this question here before signing off from this topic as it bares relivence and may be of help to anybody else undertaking the same carb conversion.

I have been wondering whether the hose that obtains electrical connections which once led to the auto choke on the pierburg 1b carb can be removed? Or is it possible to swap such hose for an alternative which doesn't house the electrical elements as I want to De clutter the bay as much as possible. And those wires Uuuggglayyy!

Thanks again

one of the thermoswitches is for the autochoke if it has one, if not then that can go. the other is for the inlet manifold heater. could unplug this one and see how it drives thru the winter. if no difference then bin it off

rubjonny said

one of the thermoswitches is for the autochoke if it has one, if not then that can go. the other is for the inlet manifold heater. could unplug this one and see how it drives thru the winter. if no difference then bin it off

Ok although it can't be driven as it's a shell inside ready to have its engine removed but thanks I will see what it does when left to get to a high temp.