Help needed with removing parts off block during resto - Campaign

Evening all Hope someone can help. Spent a couple of hours on the Campaign this afternoon. The engine is out of the car making things easier. The car has not been on road for about 10 years. I'm stripping the block of all ancillaries ready to clean up, paint and re-gasket etc. Also I figure that if things have been removed and refitted it will be easier in future for maintenance. I've got the oil filter "body"off the block but there is an another piece I think called an intermediate plate with apparently only one bolt visible when the oil filter body is off  . I can't see any other bolts so with a light tap of a mallet on the side it tilts over making me think it's just pushed into the block. However without me forcing it, it seems not want to pull off. Is there a way to safely extract this? I am looking to take off the timing belt lower cover. There's the bottom pulley which has 4 "Alan key" head bolts. I assume I need to remove this pulley wheel to take off the cover - I'm also replacing the cam belt at this point which makes sense,  together with the tensioners. The bolts are well rusted up though !   Finally, removing the distributor I've marked the distributor body and the part of the block it sits in. Is this sufficient to extract the distributor or does it need turning to TDC first before it will lift out. Thanks in advance for help  

Yes you need to remove the lower crank pulley to get the lower cover off, I would set the engine to TDC before removing any timing stuff, the pulley has a timing mark on so it needs to back on in the position.
You can get new bolts for the pulley.
You can see the timing marks on my pulleys as I painted them white so easier to see.





With the dissy it's just connected to the oil pump and a cog from the intermediate shaft turns it, if the oil pump turns the dissy will sit in a different place and you may not be able to turn it enough if you need to adjust the timing, there is a line on the edge of the dissy when the cap is removed and the rotor arm needs to point at the line, if you don't have enough room to turn the dissy then remove it again and turn the oil pump ( from the hole where the dissy lives) and try again.

Sorry can be any help on oil filter housing as I've never took one off.

Thanks for that

I note what you say and make sure it's atTDC prior to removal of anything . I 'll mark the timing marks in white to ID them later. As you say if bolts round off I'll source some more

Actually the bit I was trying to remove is on your first pic between the dipstick and the dizzy 😉

👍

The oil filter flange, and oil cooler.  
It is easier to separate the cooler from the flange on the car, take a 27 or 28mm deepwell and a breaker bar and a light smack of a hammer.

Do you mean the Warm Up Regulator? (the part with the electrical two pin connection)
Thats in two parts, the piece against the block is the heat sink and has bolts hidden from view until the actual WUR is removed

Thanks guys

I'll have another look at weekend - must be something I've missed

illmdo me TDC tests before pulling out distributor

cheers 

Got the warm up regulator off - I'd missed an Alan key bolt - rest came off ok after that.

going to leave distributor in and clean/paint around it. If it ain't broke etc…….


Thanks for help

Yes there is just about enough room to paint around it, there is also a oil seal on the dissy shaft and If it's any thing like mine it's hard and brittle as now mine leaks a little oil since removing my dissy.