Headlight switch wiring - 1988 caddy
Posted
#1677123
(In Topic #244100)
Old Timer
Hi all, is anyone able to enlighten me as to the wiring for the headlight switch shown below?
apparently, according to classic vw, a direct replacement for my switch is no longer available because my switch has a pin for dim/dip function, which I take to mean some sort of daylight running light (apparently unique to 1988 era). Which is , according to classic vw , probably disabled anyway.
the thing is, I have a burnt out wire, as arrowed in my image, which I was hoping would be the dim/dip wire which I don’t want anyway, however the new switch has a pin for the said burnt wire.
hope this makes sense….
apparently, according to classic vw, a direct replacement for my switch is no longer available because my switch has a pin for dim/dip function, which I take to mean some sort of daylight running light (apparently unique to 1988 era). Which is , according to classic vw , probably disabled anyway.
the thing is, I have a burnt out wire, as arrowed in my image, which I was hoping would be the dim/dip wire which I don’t want anyway, however the new switch has a pin for the said burnt wire.
hope this makes sense….
Posted
Local Hero
Gray/blue is for the cluster and Dash lighting.
On the pre-90's is was un-fused, and when it got nicked to ground it would melt other wires till it opened up. So I would say that you need to trace the route of the wire in the bundle and repair any collateral damage as it usually isn't just the connector.
On the pre-90's is was un-fused, and when it got nicked to ground it would melt other wires till it opened up. So I would say that you need to trace the route of the wire in the bundle and repair any collateral damage as it usually isn't just the connector.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Old Timer
Thanks for your help Briano.
The burnt wire is actually green/grey, I traced it back to tail lights, seems it's just the first six inches or so from the switch which is damaged and melted
(crikey!! The previous owner must have been so close to a fire. Weird how the fuse didn't blow ??)
The burnt wire is actually green/grey, I traced it back to tail lights, seems it's just the first six inches or so from the switch which is damaged and melted
(crikey!! The previous owner must have been so close to a fire. Weird how the fuse didn't blow ??)
Posted
Local Hero
jazzydog said
Thanks for your help Briano.
The burnt wire is actually green/grey, I traced it back to tail lights, seems it's just the first six inches or so from the switch which is damaged and melted
(crikey!! The previous owner must have been so close to a fire. Weird how the fuse didn't blow ??)
In my Old MG's and Frog-Eyes, Lucas used the wires to protect the Fuses. They only had 2 fuses
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Unfortunately fuses only protect against over-current eg due to a short circuit, but don't do anything to protect against overheating caused by a bad connection, eg due to frayed wiring or corroded contacts. This is why it is important to ensure all connections and joints are sound when carrying out wiring repairs and to ensure the under-dash area is kept dry
1992 VW Scirocco GT II 1.8 90 PS 30k
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