Failed MOT - Help please!

Hi all, 

I have a 1989 Clipper that recent failed it's MOT and I was hoping for some advice on the failures and how to fix! 

Failure 1 - Driver's seat fore and aft adjustment mechanism not functioning as intended. (6.2.5 (b) (i))

Any suggestions? Haven't taken a proper look yet, assuming the mechanism can't be too complicated…? 


Failure 2 - Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))

Hoping this can be fixed by simply adjusting? I assume the cable adjustment isn't too complicated? I read something about a hole with a wedge you can adjust with a screwdriver…? 


Failure 3 - Nearside Brake pipe excessively corroded front to rear at rear (1.1.11 ©)

Main help I would like here is knowing which part to order. There seem to be lots of rear lines with different lengths. Are they side specific and how do you know what length you need? 

Is this correct : https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-rear-brake-line-body---rear-beam-175611775-scirocco-jetta-15355-p.asp


Any help much appreciated! 

Cheers,
Russell

1. It is pretty straightforward, however its not clear what the issue is? Is it the tilt to allow rear seat passengers entry or movement of the seat itself? Often the plastic runners need replacing to stop the seat wobbling. If its the tilt mechanism the wire from the handle on the side of the seat to the securing hook near the handbrake fails. Very common and replacements are avaible or in the past I've used welding wire or electrical cable to repair.

2 Assuming the rear brakes actually work as not failed on service test.  The handbrake cables can be adjusted via nuts under the plastic hand brake lever cover. The rear self adjuster never self adjusts and can be manually adjusted by using a pointy screw driver to pull down the adjuster wedge via a bolt hole. This takes up the slack so less or no cable adjustment is needed.

3. Sounds like the metal front to rear pipe not the rubber flexi. Good luck with this  one, to replace properly it will need feeding up the bulk head around the anti roll bar, steering rack etc. At the rear end the joints will prob be rusted blobs and you may end up having to replace the flexi and other solid line.

Thanks for the help! Was worried the brakes could be hard lines. Never done and brake line work, too much for enthusiastic amateur?

Basically debating leaving it off the road this year or wether I can DIY it and save money then retest. Bloody living costs 🤣 

If you are not dependant on it running as your daily driver you can have a go spending as long as it takes and if it goes tyts up get the garage to fix it.

Unless you are a keen and vaguely competent DIYer the brakes could be a problem, access is bad at both ends, the car needs to be up on axle stands (ideally a lift) and new lines making/bending and installing with correct ends etc.

Part of the fun for me is MK1 problem solving and DIYing servcing and repairs that has meant I have a few tools (brake pipe flaring/bending etc) and experience now but until I did jobs for the first time I'd never done it before…..

The brake line is probably the short bit from the rubber hose to the wheel cylinder but it's worth checking or asking the garage which bit needs replacing?
If it's just the short bit you can buy ready made lines but you will need some proper brake line spanners so you don't round the connectors off, it may be best left to a garage if you don't know what your doing as it's should not take them anymore than an hour to replace the line and bleed the brakes.

https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-rear-brake-line-wheel-cylinder---rear-beam-scirocco-jetta-14559-p.asp

Thanks guys! Always keen to work on the car myself, would like to think I'm not a complete novice. Brakes however are something that's always worried me, sounds like lines may be a step too far atm, especially if it's the solid lines! 

Thanks for you help again.