Exhaust Broken
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#1676687
(In Topic #243881)
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Which do i need?
Hi,
1985 Mk1 Cab 1.6L GL
I am wondering if anuone can point me in the right direction with finding a replacement back box/rear silencer.
Mine decided to completely detach itself from the backbox and so now sounds like a monster truck…
I have looked breifly myself, but seem to be many variations.
TIA
C.
1985 Mk1 Cab 1.6L GL
I am wondering if anuone can point me in the right direction with finding a replacement back box/rear silencer.
Mine decided to completely detach itself from the backbox and so now sounds like a monster truck…
I have looked breifly myself, but seem to be many variations.
TIA
C.
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plenty on ebay, you decide, performance/steel/stainless, diy or exhaust centre
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golfy1 said
plenty on ebay, you decide, performance/steel/stainless, diy or exhaust centre
Thanks, just wanting to replace the rear section.
Just seems to be multiple versions for different years etc. So wondered if anyone knew of anything exact so the mounts were in the correct position.
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The engine code and the last the last 8 digits of the VIN would help to narrow down the correct VW part number
1992 VW Scirocco GT II 1.8 90 PS 30k
Posted
Local Hero
I do believe that you will need to replace the Piping between the resonator, and the rear silencer.
This is why I hate Exhaust work, and leave it to my trusty mom&pop shop.
If you do decide to go the whole route, then may I suggest that instead of using the old fashioned silencer clamps (We call then muffler clamps over here.).
That tend to Crush Pipes and distort them making them a PITA to remove or re-use piping with out a Pipe expander to straighten out the kinks.
OLD style
NEWER style
Use SS band clamps as they come in different sizes and can be bought to reduce diameters as well.
They clamp circumference of the pipe with no distortion
and the pipes can't wiggle loose or leak when the pipes are cut square and butt up to each other.
This is why I hate Exhaust work, and leave it to my trusty mom&pop shop.
If you do decide to go the whole route, then may I suggest that instead of using the old fashioned silencer clamps (We call then muffler clamps over here.).
That tend to Crush Pipes and distort them making them a PITA to remove or re-use piping with out a Pipe expander to straighten out the kinks.
OLD style
NEWER style
Use SS band clamps as they come in different sizes and can be bought to reduce diameters as well.
They clamp circumference of the pipe with no distortion
and the pipes can't wiggle loose or leak when the pipes are cut square and butt up to each other.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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Briano1234 said
I do believe that you will need to replace the Piping between the resonator, and the rear silencer.
This is why I hate Exhaust work, and leave it to my trusty mom&pop shop.
If you do decide to go the whole route, then may I suggest that instead of using the old fashioned silencer clamps (We call then muffler clamps over here.).
That tend to Crush Pipes and distort them making them a PITA to remove or re-use piping with out a Pipe expander to straighten out the kinks.
OLD style
NEWER style
Use SS band clamps as they come in different sizes and can be bought to reduce diameters as well.
They clamp circumference of the pipe with no distortion
and the pipes can't wiggle loose or leak when the pipes are cut square and butt up to each other.
Thanks a lot for the detailed response! I will certainly take that into account.
Is the reason in having to replace the pipe work between the resonator and back box due to not being able to buy a replacement where the pipework is welded/attached to the back box and the first connection is before the resonator as it is now/originally?
Posted
Local Hero
If the replacement silencer has the feed in port that is sufficiently long enough to be attached then no but your pipe looks to be a little brittle (weak) and maybe not last long. Just my observation.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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typ_53b said
The engine code and the last the last 8 digits of the VIN would help to narrow down the correct VW part number
EW Engine Code.
FK019892
Not sure if that helps.
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For your engine code and VIN, the parts diagrams suggest 155253609B was the original part number, with long-life alternatives 155253609C or 155253609P. A quick online search of availability using these exact part numbers doesn't look that promising
1992 VW Scirocco GT II 1.8 90 PS 30k
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typ_53b said
For your engine code and VIN, the parts diagrams suggest 155253609B was the original part number, with long-life alternatives 155253609C or 155253609P. A quick online search of availability using these exact part numbers doesn't look that promising
Thanks a lot for looking at that, those numbers look to be exactly what I need.
As you say though, impossible to find anywhere that has one.
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