Engine idle 1.8 DX

Hi guys wondered if anyone had any ideas?

My Rivage was running like a dream , idle was at 900rpm, cold starts were fine, and ran really smooth with good power, new injectors, pumps filters abt 3 years back

After a 20 mile spirited drive, the idle on the car had shot up to 1200rpm so in my haste i started to mess around with everything icluding fuelling  MISTAKE!

I have managed to get all the fuelling back in spec and idle set to 1000rpm, but its still not right

- Cold starts - idle is very low, cuts out , bounces etc
- once warmed up stabalises, but seems flat at 3000 rpm


what i have done so far

- changed plugs
- new fuel filter
- rechecked fuelling (CO2)
- changed the AAV (no difference)

i have another WUR on its way and another lift pump.

any ideas what it coulld be?

I was thinking lift pump as i heard these can go after a few years and maybe the spirited drive has weakend it?
WUR - maybe got dirt in it ?

gotta fix it soon as the suns out 
any suggestions welcome


 

A bad lift pump usually causes the main pump to whine like a kid wanting more candy….. You can hear it at the right rear wheel arch area.

A High idle isn't a bad fuel pump usually.

It can be either or all of the following.

Timing,
Vacuum Hose leak as it is getting unmetered air.
Idle not right.
Sticky Accell cable or bad Bushing holding it to the accel pedal

The WUR is the better suspect that you are seeing a low cold idle and then a higher warmed idle.

Also if you are running CIS then be sure that you check the idle by-pass valve behind the Throttlebody next to the firewall . 7mm brass screw that if it is finger tight or you can move it with your fingers then the o-ring is bad and needs replacing… Count the turns to take out write that number down.  Run it to the hardware store and get a replacement o-ring, wrap the Threads of the screw and Threads only with Teflon Tape, re-insert and return it to the count you removed it with.

Flat response at a given RPM is either timing for fuel flow limiting… I would suspect timing first.

Thanks Briano1234

forgot to add i have also
- Changed the o-ring on the idle screw
- changed a few hardened vacuum hoses

i`ll check the bushing today as i didnt even think of that!

i have messed around with fuelling and timing at dist level so i`ll recheck all of those too. Thanks

the simple things!

My case was similar to yours and it was the O-ring of the idle screw.
 

been a while since posting, still none the wiser!

since the last update
- changed the 4 way air check valve and piping to the servo (not the issue)
- changed the AAV (not ths issue)
- changed all the small vacuum rubber piping(not the issue)
- changed the o-ring on the adjuster (not the issue)
- injector rings were changed not long ago
- changed the WUR (not the issue)
- accelerator gromit is fine

Still to do
- throttle body cleaned one side - may remove and clean both sides just awaiting a gasket.
- have also ordered a 2nd hand cone valve thing which i heard can cause the issue.

after this I am out of ideas! cant seem to see any leaks, adjustment screw is now fully screwed in so cant adjust any more.

shame as i would have driven it more this summer but its been parked up instead.

Any more ideas appreciated

Hi All

The car has been on hold since posting last due to moving house and COVID delaying the house move massively.

Anyhow, Fired it up in May and got it MOT'd and Tax'd again. Was still running lumpy with an added misfire (pop and bang map is what the modern days cars care added with ) lol.

On the way back the car started bogging down to the extent I was struggling to get up hills, then we saw smoke under the dash and stopped.

Basically the Intermediate pulley had come loose and the timing belt was rubbing hard against the water pump pulley, this saved it coming off totally!

after being towed home, I pulled the car apart and the timing belt had rubbed through all the belt cover.


Cleaned up the area, ordered new timing belt and tensioner, and a new set of belt covers.

I took the intermediate pulley off to find this


so basically it seems the pulley must have come loose at some point and the woodruff key damaged the shaft and the pulley.

I ordered a replacement pulley, welded the gap and put in a fresh woodruff key. put all the timing back and its all up and running.

Its running as it should and I think all the issues I had in this thread were due to the pulley being damaged and messing the timing up, over time getting worse!

anyhow, lesson learnt, After fixing this, I should have checked the cam pulley but totally forgot, maybe one for the next timing belt change!

so if you just can't get it to run right pull everything off and check it properly…. hopefully will help someone in the future.

That's actually quite lucky as would only effect the ignition timing so no bent valves.