Distributor Refuses to Rotate
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#1563871
(In Topic #210180)
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Posted

Local Hero

Let it Penetrate the Base and into the block. LET it WORK for about an hour. Spray it again and wait about an hour, spray it again… Then
Remove the Clamping wedge and bolt…
Using a pair of channel-locks or Gasoline pliers grab low on the stem of the dizzy and Gently start a rotating back and forth GENTLY….
It will start to move eventually I have had to work at it for 30 minutes….GEntle…. is key.
I have also used a small Punch and a 4-oz Ball peen hammer to tap side ways to the base that (yes it is tight in there but you have to Punch the base of the dizzy flat where it meets the block. There is a O-RING that welds it self or decomposes to a sticky goo, that glues the dizzy to the Block. You are trying to break this goo glue.

Smack the base….only the Base.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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Now it seems to have an air fuel related sputter? Adjusting the idle adjustment screw on the back of the throttle body makes no difference. Any ideas. Reading through the Haynes and Bentley right now.
Posted

Local Hero

Once in time, then you need to test the Duty Cycle.
I know that it is Critical to these critters, and my CIS knowledge is only what I read……..very little first hand information…..
www.cabby-info.com has a wealth of information on CIS. as well as Tech Groups
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In


The car is in time and idles like a dream at 900rpm. (automatic) You can even put it into gear and it just crawls! Before the RPM wouldn't stoop below 1100. Once in gear the idle droops a bit but not 200rpm like it used to.
This is fun to play with/troubleshoot but the show is coming up in a week and I don't want to have issues on the way.
Now this is a silly question, but just came to mind. Prior to the work there was a cat and the O2 sensor was just in front of the cat. Currently the car is open header with the O2 sensor coming off of. 2 cylinders rather than all 4. It will be welded this week(I don't do exhaust welding I always get a pinhole lol). Could the O2 be the problem? I'll unpug it to run open loop I suppose.
Edit: quick update, I noticed the distributor cap appears to be loose even though the clips are snug and it's oriented properly. Could one of my clips be loose?
Last edit: by Blade3562
Posted

Local Hero

o2 on 2 of the 4 pipes is sufficient. Leave it connected even is you do away with the CAT…… Open Loop enrichens, and you will have a devil of a time getting it right.
Automatic? Dropping RPM is usually a Vac leak, or Timing. 4btdc is where I usually run mine. (auto).
do you have Digi or CIS?
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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