Distributor Refuses to Rotate

Finally finishing everything up on my Cabby. I had adjusted the distributor 90% of the way and let it sit for the past couple months now I can't get the thing to budge no matter how much force I apply. I actually chipped a small piece of the block trying to move it. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Hoping to take it to a show here at the end of the month. Just need to finish up the top, have the new header welded to the catback and finish this timing adjustment!

Soak the Base of the Dizzy with CROIL or PB-Blaster.
Let it Penetrate the Base and into the block. LET it WORK for about an hour. Spray it again and wait about an hour, spray it again… Then

Remove the Clamping wedge and bolt…

Using a pair of channel-locks or Gasoline pliers grab low on the stem of the dizzy and Gently start a rotating back and forth GENTLY….

It will start to move eventually I have had to work at it for 30 minutes….GEntle…. is key.

I have also used a small Punch and a 4-oz Ball peen hammer to tap side ways to the base that  (yes it is tight in there but you have to Punch the base of the dizzy flat where it meets the block. There is a O-RING that welds it self or decomposes to a sticky goo, that glues the dizzy to the Block.  You are trying to break this goo glue.



Smack the base….only the Base.

I got it finally Brian! I let it soak for the day yesterday in pb blaster, came back today soaked it around 5pm, soaked it again around 6pm. It moved by just my hand at 7pm! Got out the timing light and timed it.

Now it seems to have an air fuel related sputter? Adjusting the idle adjustment screw on the back of the throttle body makes no difference. Any ideas. Reading through the Haynes and Bentley right now.

The little Brass SCREW?  that is the throttle body Idle by-pass screw…. if it is finger loose that is you can turn it by hand then that is a Vacuum leak.  Count the turns it takes to remove it, write that number down, go to a good hardware store and get a new o-ring….return to the count.   "Hint" Wrap the Threads and Threads only with Gas grade teflon tape (yellow and about twice as thick as white) and well let's say leaks are a thing of the past… These guys hate Vacuum leaks of any kind.

Once in time, then you need to test the Duty Cycle.
I know that it is Critical to these critters, and my CIS knowledge is only what I read……..very little first hand information…..

www.cabby-info.com has a wealth of information on CIS.  as well as Tech Groups

It's the 7mm bolt/screw adjustment on the back of the throttle body. It takes a wrench to adjust it and it worked for adjusting over summer, but maybe when we tried adjusting for the cam the o-ring gave up. Does the oring fit down below the bolt or up by the head. I'm assuming down by the base. I've never had one go bad before, but I've also never messed with the idle so much  It definitely feels/sounds like a vac leak but all the lines are new. Replaced in October. It's cheap though I'll just buy some more.

The car is in time and idles like a dream at 900rpm. (automatic) You can even put it into gear and it just crawls! Before the RPM wouldn't stoop below 1100. Once in gear the idle droops a bit but not 200rpm like it used to.

This is fun to play with/troubleshoot but the show is coming up in a week and I don't want to have issues on the way.

Now this is a silly question, but just came to mind. Prior to the work there was a cat and the O2 sensor was just in front of the cat. Currently the car is open header with the O2 sensor coming off of. 2 cylinders rather than all 4. It will be welded this week(I don't do exhaust welding I always get a pinhole lol). Could the O2 be the problem? I'll unpug it to run open loop I suppose.

Edit: quick update, I noticed the distributor cap appears to be loose even though the clips are snug and it's oriented properly. Could one of my clips be loose?

Well the Idle Bypass screw is for Idle only,  it is usually barely turned…. if it is finger loose or finger tight, then that is a Vacuum leak, the O-ring is Below the threads.

o2 on 2 of the 4 pipes is sufficient.  Leave it connected even is you do away with the CAT…… Open Loop enrichens, and you will have a devil of a time getting it right.  

Automatic?  Dropping RPM is usually a Vac leak, or Timing.  4btdc is where I usually run mine. (auto).

do you have Digi or CIS?