Best way to Descale water pipe connections?

So noticed small water leak, upon inspection noticed 3 areas that needed cleaning.

Took the suspect pipes off after draining system and have scraped off 80% but before reconnecting what's the best way to clean them up as much as poss?

I've got normal kettle descaler etc but it's the type you stick in kettle and let it boil to clean so can't see that helping

What's the best thing to use on the engine with what I suspect would be a toothbrush?

Cheers all

Nath

Change of plan! Found why it's leaking! Part number / part name please 😂

if that is the rear plastic flange on the engine (year and type of engine) as 1989 CIS…. that is a bigger help.

https://www.vwheritage.com/026121144e-coolant-flange-with-o-ring-vw-spare

to flush and back flush a system see my how do I do that thread in the archive section how-to's briano's 90 cabbie post.

Or click the link in the signature.

That looks like the badger, mine is metal tho! However one of the bolts just snapped 🙈

Great 

Oh no that's not good… if you cant get the stud out you need to drill very carefully and re tap the thread in the head.

When fitting new bolts back in smear them in copper grease and it will stop the aluminium to steel bolt seizing together which happens over time.

Good luck and let us know how you get on…

In trouble now. 

Do I remove head to remove these bolts? They are flush now as flatting and using adjustable sapped them further 

At bit of a cross roads 

I've only ever had to fix a bolt on the front water flange, access is not very good on the side of the engine and you might find it tricky to get a drill in there and make sure you drill the stud straight (use a good centre punch) so not cause any/much damage to the head.

I know it's a pain but if it was me I would take the head off but you will need new gaskets etc.

Have you had the head off before?

If not might be a good time to change valve steam seals as they go hard over time and check the valves, valve guides, cyinders etc…

Up To to you really?

Perhaps others will offer advice etc….

Cross road passed lol

Don't forget to get new head bolts as well as you can only use them one and use the proper tool to remove the bolts, I think it's a 12 sided spline tool but can't rememeber….

I did buy it to learn about cars after all lol

Yea got the spline tool, had enough for one day tho tbh 😂😂

Will keep you updated.


The plus sides that once head gasket replaced and cambelt is done (luckily the one I bought I hadn't fitted yet) I've pretty much replaced all the big boys. Oil pump was one of first jobs. I'll get water pump too as might as well get that done now too.

At least she will be ready for the big runs to the more distant shows. Was only going to go localish 

Out of interest, the injector collars, 2 are screwed, are they hard to come across?

Do you have a local engine shop?
Might be worth asking them to test and clean the head while it's off?

If you strip it complete it's only about £30 to get them to put it in their big dishwasher and you get a nice clean head….

If you do strip the head yourself make sure you keep all the valves, spring etc in the right order so they all go back in the same place.

 

I was thinking this, it has only done about 18k since it had head gasket, skimmed etc according to previous receipts  so unsure whether to take it all that far. Will see more when it's apart but I couldn't be arsed with it any more today.

Got a few days hol to take before April so might invest a couple into her 

It should be alright then, I'm surprised they did not remove the flanges before getting the head skimmed etc…
At least you can have a good check inside the engine when it's apart.

I smear a little high temp grease over the ends of the metal flanges when refitting the rubber coolant hoses as this seems to slow down the pitting/corrosion and makes it easier refitting/removing the hoses.

I also use ready mixed coolant as tap water is not the best when mixing coolant, I use the blue stuff that needs changing every couple of years.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/antifreeze-and-screenwash/blue-antifreeze/?523770501&0&cc5_865


Fuel injector inserts…

Depends on what type you have, I had brass coloured metal tops and the bottom part was plastic which a few bits had fell off… I just cleaned up the metal part and fitted new plastic bottoms, pig of a job to get a couple of them out and they fell apart so not the sort of job to do when the heads on the engine..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-New-VW-Golf-GTI-MK1-MK2-1-8-16V-Corrado-Lower-Fuel-Injector-Inserts/151567468047?hash=item234a20060f:g:VoMAAOSwT5xZOz2V

Look similar will check when home, but I'm sureness mine had a thread at the top

I would of welded nuts on and shocked them with a hammer. The heat from welding might of loosened them up. Penetrating fluid as well. Still no guarantees though.  

Mine started like this. (Not sure if the link from photobucket will work?)

https://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/mark1gls/Golf%20engine%20rebuild/CIMG9035_zpsjla52nhf.jpg

Then with new plastic bottom inserts.
https://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/mark1gls/Golf%20engine%20rebuild/CIMG9081_zpsdy5rqdzd.jpg

Fitted.
https://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/mark1gls/Golf%20engine%20rebuild/CIMG9081_zpsdy5rqdzd.jpg

Found some new inserts from Vw heritage, they also sell the complete plastic type..

https://www.vwheritage.com/063133555a-insert-for-fuel-injector-18-vw-spare

Or the metal top..

https://www.vwheritage.com/034133555a-upper-insert-for-fuel-injector-16v-vw-spare

Well the first thought is the previous owner never heard of Never-Seize, and using a torque wrench as most Steel bolts in to the head take only 87 In/lbs of torque.

I have had good success with smaller left-handed drill bits and a reversible drill.

But I would be dam sure that you get it center punched and use a bit that is about 3/4 the diameter of the bolt and soak them with pb-blaster for a few days.

if you are going to remove the head you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner as well.