1.8 gti dx lumpy start and stall.

Started up the golf this morning and backed it out of garage. All fine a bit spluttery but not been used for 4 weeks. Usually clears through after a little dab on accelerator. 

Sat and Ticked over for a few mins and Then it just died and on trying to restart it just turns over and over unless you give and hold a bit of accelerator pedal and then it  just ticks over very very lumpy. As soon as off the gas it dies. 

AA Man didn't have a clue.

All reasonably new plugs and leads and dizzy.(2years) 
Spark good, fuel pump sound normal, cold start not firing when checked but engine was warm from initial tick over.
Air flow plate moving freely.

A lot of fuel when I removed the spark plug but could be as I was turning it over and pressing accelerator a lot. ?

Any ideas as to next move?  I know it's a bit vague but someone may have experienced similar? 

Any help appreciated 
Thanks 

Have a quick check of the throttle body and check the flaps move….if jammed spray some carb cleaner.

Check fuel tank for corrosion, also fuel filter incase of blockage.

If ok, then I would carry out a fuel pressure test as it could be the Warm Up Regulator. The brown Haynes manual has detailed instructions on how to carry out the test.

Thanks Brinz. Fuel filter and pump are both about 3months old(after last pump packed up from what I think was a blockage also). I am thinking it's a blockage but will check throttle body and have a look in fuel tank. . Pressure test next on agenda.  
Cheers 

Worth also having a quick check of the fuel pump relay too......I remember when my fuel pump relay was on its way out the car was running lumpy, and then was gone.

Great minds think alike. 
I had checked and There's a fair bit of corrosion around the solder on the circuit board in the relay. I've got a new one in order. £45quid!!
Thanks! 

I had the same......after replacing 4 fuel pump relays in 2 years, I found out that the fuse box relays were corroded and was shorting due to rain water leak down the A Pillar to the fusebox and it was getting damp inside......my sunroof drains were blocked with corrosion and the drain tray was corroded. I managed to do some temporary glass fiber repair until such time I remove the roof lining and get it professionally welded. The rear drain pipes run inside the back arches which is a rubbish design as the arches are prone to corrosion so I bought longer length tubing and ran outside the body underneath the car.

Check fuel pressure, or better still check the mixture properly.

Thanks Paul. Will have to get a garage to check pressure as I don't have a kit. May well have to invest in one. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324323535416

Worth getting one of these. I bought this from eBay. Was worth the investment as it helped me resolve a lot of issues I had with the CIS.

Great thanks. So nothing else needed if I get that. It will go straight onto WUR  fittings? 

You need the brown Haynes manual, pen, paper, stop watch and the fuel pressure gauge kit. The Haynes manual describes the test in detail and you check the values you have is within the illustrated graph.

You hook the guage between the fuel metering head and the WUR fuel line.

If the fuel pressure is too high during cold start up, that's your problem.

During cold start, the fuel pressure should be low as the warm up regulator lowers the fuel pressure and the auxillary air valve is open to allow additional suction to lift the air flow plate, then you get a rich mixture. As the car warms up the bimetallic plates in both the AAR and WUR heat up and close the valves and the car starts to run leaner and you notice drop in revs.

With my car, both the WUR and Metering Head were suspect after I carried out the tests, so I had them overhauled by KMI Injection UK. They are expensive, but they are absolute professionals and you can't fault their work.