No fuel getting g to injectors

Put inje for in coke bottle turn ignition on lift metering head flap nothing any ideas .? Brand new fuel pump and main lines by the way 

Daft question but has it got petrol in it?

Are you doing this test with the pump constantly running?

Got about half tank mate 
 When you say constantly running do you mean ignition on .?

no you need to jump the pump relay socket, ignition on isnt enough (unless your wiring/relay is bodged)

an easy way is to fit a 17/18 relay to the fuel pump socket if its a later blade fusebox, this will make pump come on with ignition. pull the black wires off the coil to stop any chance of a spark while testing

Cheers mate it's a series 1 gti so early fuse 
So just jump across the two big blades on fuel pump relay position in fuse box .?

yup that'll do the trick, pump relay pins 30 and 87 for reference

Ok now I'm really confused
When the car was working before the rebuild never a fuel pump sound silent running but now I've bridged the relay it sounds really loud buzzing still it pumps 
 But my fuel filter unions are still leaking even after …

1. new copper washers
2. new aluminuim washers
3. annealing the copper ones 

Could there be a fault with metering head causing back pressure that the banjos simply can't handle .?

well if the pump is now making noises and it wasnt before then that would be something to look at, but in order to find out if the pressure is too high you'll need a set of pressure gauges really. but one thing you can check is that fuel is returning to the tank ok, remove the return line from the metering head to ensure its comign out of there and either blow down the return line or disconnect it from the tank and point into a bucket to ensure fuel is getting down the line.

look for obvious problems such as kinks etc, and if you see rust anywhere in the fuel lines its best to just bin EVERYTHING and start again once the fuel tank and filler neck are cleaned and replaced. trouble with rust is once its in the fuel system its difficult to remove and knackers the metering head as the clearances inside are so tiny.

you could remove the lines to the wur while you're there look inside the inlet hole make sure the mesh is clear

So sorry mate should if stated the following 
1)tanks been removed cleaned

1. filler neck wasn't rusty
2. new filler neck to tank rubber

4)new acumulator hoses

1. new crazy quiffs main fuel lines
2. brand new Bosch fuel pump 

The whole engine was removed to clean and sort tappers out etc 
Car was running fine before removal 

Have replaced everything back again same wur same metering head  but  no fuel to injectors it's getting to metering head  and when I undo. The banjos for Injectirs fuel comes out its been suggested as I can't get fuel filter to seal that maybe lowering pressure to I he toes so they won't open .??

right cool, unhook the return to the tank and crank it over, make sure a good stream of fuel comes out. this will show that there isnt a blockage but it wont tell you if the pressure regulator in the metering head is working ok, for that you need some gauges

Cheers dude will do 
Any tips on sealing filter banjos .?

ive never had any trouble even with old ones, just nip them up job done! the fact they leak even after buying new does suggest that the pressure is too high (or you're being a girl tightening them up )

Lol mate I'm doing these up seriously tight  
Could it be …..

1. faulty filter 
2. blockage metering head side of things causing back pressure. To filter banjos 

I assume fuel pump doesn't have pressure regulator .?

check the inlet banjo, sometimes these have a filter in them but it should have been removed as part of one of the early service schedules. try one without a filter or drill it out

Use genuine sealing washers - they have the correct IDs and plastic inner seal for the filter

Thought vw just sell copper I've ordered some dowty ones maybe they will work .?
Filter is brand new Bosch 

Well she runs 
Dowty washers finally sealed the filter then did injector test  sure enough lifted flap and injector fired into coke bottle 
Eventually engine started but nowI have the dreaded cold start issue 
Could it be …….

5th injector 
Isv 
Thermotime switch 
Aav
That's at fault how do I test these .??

pull the 5th injector off and crank it engien stone cold, it should spray. try again engine warm, it should NOT spray. aav clean it out and look down it cold, check again warm. the flap on the inside should move position as it warms up

The Haynes manual tells you how to test most of these things, and gives you the reading etc you should be getting.

Cheers guys 12v at 5th Inj during cranking  but no petrol ( engines cold ) 
Swapped injectors out still no joy any ideas .?