fuel distributor

i want to overhaul the fuel distributor on my k-jetronic system, can anyone give me any advice or helpful links about how to do this and how easy it is, and is there anything to be wary of, besides fuel and fire.
thanks
joe

Haynes manual says no , bently manual says no . Leave well alone  :mrgreen: :dontknow:

Never had one to bits .

Cheers …………

You can take out the main system pressure valve, clean up and check the seals are OK. Also ensure the piston on the bottom is moving freely. Just keep everything clean.

thanks for the input, the thing is, ive got this ongoing problem, and i think ive tried everything to fix it, but failed.
when the car reaches around 3500 revs in any gear when moving(under load) it doesnt run properly, like it isnt getting enough fuel, ive done the following jobs;-
new plugs
new ht leads
new dis cap
new rotar arm
new coil
new fuel pump
new fuel filter twice
new fuel filler neck(already on when i bought her)
replaced warmup regulator with second hand
replaced cold start with second hand
4 new injectors ( and then a fifth because 1 was faulty)
new air filter
i had the car crypton tuned after  the air filter and no difference, the problem is that the car is great when stood.
i thought it must be the fuel pressure that was too low but i dont have a pressure tester gauge, so today i removed the pressure relief valve and added a washer(about 0.75mm)this didnt seem to make a difference so i added another and still no change.
any ideas greatly appreciated  

You really need to put a fuel pressure gauge on it and do various checks that are specified in Haynes.

Even though you replaced a lot of parts, if you have dirt in the tank it isnt going to solve your problem. I would have a look in the tank and try and collect some fuel from before the filter.

thanks dubboy that was a fast reply
i cleaned the tank out in the summer (there was a bit of muck in it)and then changed the filter again,
do you think it could be dirt in the fuel distributor, isnt it weird that putting more washers into the pressure valve didnt make a difference,
and it revs great when its in neutral

well guys
ive gone an done what mr haynes and bentley told me not to,
my fuel metering head is in pieces on my kitchen table  :roll:

how did you get on with ur metering head m8 any pics???? im going to do the same

For anybody who reads this thread, it is not recommended to dismantle the fuel distributor and I cant be held responsible for any consequences.
Hi tam
If you?re going to renew it you've got nothing to lose but it goes against everybody's recommendations so it?s in your hands.
Theirs no moving parts except the plunger underneath but you can clean that out without taking the rest to bits,
 Its just 4 sets of springs and washers, o'rings, a filter (you can?t replace it just clean it) and a really thin metal piece that goes between the two main body parts.
Mine was filthy inside so I?m happy that I did it.
Heres what I did,
I took the bolts out from the underside then gave it a few taps with a hammer to break the seal.
Once id cracked the seal I sprayed it with wd40 in the crack and kept wiggling it. There?s a cylinder through the middle so spin it, but only a bit side to side as the thin metal plate was still stuck to both of the main body parts in places, you could slide a feeler gauge in to separate them but be careful not to damage it, the main thing that?s stopping you pulling it apart is the o?ring.
All the bits inside are lose so go steady. Take note of which way up the springs and washers go.
Once apart there are four cylinders inside, I used coloured tie wraps (?1 from b&q) to hold the four sets of springs and washers together, so that I could put it all back as was.(not sure if it would have made a difference.)
Once it was in bits I cleaned it all with a tooth brush and cotton buds(pipe cleaners would have been good), I think I used oven cleaner, and aerosol brake cleaner on the filter.
If you replace the o?rings use ones made from nitrile for the fuel. I bought a box of about 300 with various sizes and none were the right size, so in the end I didn?t bother.

Important
Have a good look at the thin piece of metal, there?s a tiny pin hole in it and it has to line up with the  hole in the main body when you put it back together. Its for the warm up regulator, mine was blocked.

Before I put it back together I got some ?Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound? from http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/PMX-20539C/SEARCH:KEYWORD/product.html
I painted it onto both main body parts and both sides of the thin metal piece.
Then put it all together, tightened it all up and that was it.
Be careful when you put it back on the car, isnapped one of the bolts,
this one

here are all the pics I took
















Hope this helps
Let me know how you get on.

cheers m8 will have a go at taking apart as ive got a spare  8)

well i put the other metering head on it today and it ran on what sounds like 3 but when you pull a lead off it stays the same, when cold it will take a rev but when hot its like its not getting enough fuel , it will tick over but will not take a rev and cut out , its doing ma head in any ideas???

sounds like mine 12 months ago.
im not a mechanic and youll probably get better advice from others on here,
ive changed nearly all the fuel system and ignition system, and everything made it a bit better. i changed the injectors early doors but wish i hadnt, because i have changed another since and need to change another because of dirt in the system, and the fuel distributor.
have just got mine about right this week apart from 1 injector which is opening at the wrong pressure.
id start off by looking in the fuel tank and seeing how dirty the petrol is, not sure if its the same on a tin top, but on mine theres access under the rear seat, where the fuel lift pump is.

if it is your injectors, somebody on ebay cleans and refurbs them for about a tenner each, but i dont know how good they are when done, im thinking of trying him.

sounds like your warm up regulator is trying to work, if it runs better cold, (unless it only runs better for 5 or 10 seconds, then its your cold start valve thats feeding the fuel when you first start it up).
theres all kinds of tests you can do on different parts, if you havent got a haynes or bentley manual there are threads on this site for most things.
it might be something simple, and cheap with a bit of luck.
by the way,, if you take out your injectors and do the visual test, the book says they are meant to give a fine mist in a coe shape, i wouldnt worry about that for now, just make sure theyre sprayinig petrol, and make the fine cone spray last on your list.
going away in the morning for a few days, so good look mate.