Voltage regulator please

Hmmm So decided to sort my clocks out today.
Thanks to Gav for the spare bits.
I had no MFA display at all and the tripometer re set stick had been snapped off too.

But I had got a spare set if clocks off e bay ages ago.
So whilst I am repairing mine I can still use the car.
The e bay clocks were dead so I swapped the voltage regulators over and the new ones sprang into life yay.
Thing is I need a working regulator please anyone.





Cheers

Chortle

So not only did I get the spare set working found out why the origional set isn't .
A resistor and two zenner diodes.
Total fail.



Only thing that isn't working on my clocks is the oil temp on the MFA?
Any ideas?

Bump

If you think Vehicle Wiring Porducts might have them I can get you one when I pop there later this week?

I also have that stalk for you if you still need it?

Yay charlie how you doing?
Got your text cheers.

I have ordered some regulators now.
Had to buy 5 though.
To be fair not gonna need the stalks now as they work fine.
It was the circuit board that had failed behind the clocks.
Sorry if that's caused you any probs.
You coming up to some meets at all.

Plus my Mum made me put done news paper down on the table before I started the job on the clocks.
So I just took the paper apart and shoved it down.
Just seen its the lonely heart adds lol, the irony…..

Cheers

Chortle

the mfa wire is the green/black to the small white sensor in the filter housing, try earthing it to see if the gauge goes up to full. if it does then its sensor, if not trace wiring back till you get to the cluster. oh and just in case you didnt know the display wont register till the oil is at least 50 degrees

Cheers Johnny,
These clocks of e bay were not working at all.
No lights display, I thought I had done something wrong.
I had supply and earth etc so swapped the voltage reg over and hey presto.
Just need to see why the rev counter needle is flopping down since I pulled it off to get to the circuit board underneath.

Cheers
Chortle

chortle rubjonny (or anyone else who can help). I had a set of clocks failed due to the very same resistor dying. Can anyone identify the failed resistor so I can replace it?

If the board is burnt out like mine was it's a replacement board from another set if clocks.
That's what I needed to do.
The voltage regulator on the  clocks wasn't working on the other clocks. So new one fitted.

I've got spare regulator if need be.

Cheers

I was hoping to replace the burnt out resistor first. But not sure which one it is

I think from memory when they cook they really do go.
I couldn't see the values on the parts and without a circuit diagram with values listed it's difficult to know what they are.
I don't have my old board anymore to look at it was that bad I chucked it.
If someone has a the clocks disassembled maybe they could put some enlarged photo up to see if you can identify the components.

Not sure if a MK2 set of clocks with MFA has the same circuit board behind them. That would widen options for you.

I have a google. Cheers

chortle - as requested!!!

Nearly 5 years to the day!!  



Is that any help???  

A little late?  Oh for further information, the 10V stabilizer is a KA-7810-AET.  online from VW sources they run about 50 bucks, but from a Electronics supply they are about 1 buck or less, so order 5 or 6 of them as the shipping is the same.

There has been some discussion on the other forums that I use that the VR replacements are bass ackwards and have to be flipped, but that isn't the case that I have found.  The Bentley or Haynes shows the tests to be one way, where the manufacturers shows that the pins are reversed…  I did a little digging and found that the Bentley is correct, and the manufacturers used the same mistaken data sheet drawing for the pin-outs for quite a while…. So when replacing them put them in the Bentley way, then using a 9V DC battery connected to Pin 2 and pin 14 on a Cabriolet cluster that is ground and Battery in, you should see from pin 2.  Ground on the Middle,

The one that is low should be battery in, and the upper is 10v stabilized……