the dreaded buzzer - help!

Hopefully somebody can give me some advice for the next step to try…

usual story oil light and buzzer come on over 2k revs, is fine at start up and idle with no light or buzzer - oil pump is working and has been tested, both pressure switches have been replaced - blue side of head (low) and black (gsf replacement for white) 1.8bar at filter - engine bay wiring is fine to both sensors.

have tried earthing both wires at idle and no change, oil buzzer and light come on at 2k revs and earthing either oil pres wires makes no difference - buzzer/light stays on.

have removed rocker cover and checked the gauze for blockages and air is free flowing in both directions, have tried 2 sets of clocks and same problem with both

is it down to a dodgy earth or is there anything else to check? shall i splice another earth in behind the clocks and run an earth from rocker cover to coil bracket as cant see one on there - no other electrical gremlins though.

also there is an oil leak from the base of the dipstick, when i turn the engine off you can hear a hissing and slight oil bubbling from there. do these push in or screw in or welded?

any help would be appreciated

thanks

Ben

If the pressure is definately ok……..

Have you checked continuity of the sender wire and checked it to earth?  If it isn't broken in the loom somewhere or shorted to earth it may be worth changing the L shaped board in the back of the speedo.  It seems to be a weak design, and changing it cured my issues. (so far :mrgreen: )

thanks mate - not very electrical minded can you explain in leymans terms - sorry! do i just use a meter and check there is a current running through each of the sender wires - ie earthing each wire through the meter to the car body?

and also what is the L shape connection - have heared it mentioned few times - is it part of the circuit board on the back of the clocks?

cheers

Take the clocks out and undo the cable connector at the back. Find the wire relating to the sender by using the colour coding. Remove the connector from the sender on the head and stick a meter lead in it.  The other lead goes at the the other end.  Set your meter on continuity or the minimum "Ohms" setting.  For a good cable you should see about 0.01 Ohms. A bad one will show a high resistance or error or overload.
To check to earth, leave it disconnected, and do the same check with a lead on the cable, and a lead on the chassis or battery neg. There should be no continuity  ie overload.

The L shaped board will become apparent when you take the cluster out. It is a board, and it looks like an L :wink:
Its fitted on the back of the speedo.

Hope this is clearer.

24D

Same problem, will try above out.

Good work Twofourdonkey

Pete.

thanks for taking time to explain 24d

redpete let me know how you get on

cheers

Ben