heater blowers, were intermitent, now packed up all together

hi

my fans had been cutting out fot a while but now they've stopped althogether, i've checked the fuses and all of them are fine, where is best to starty looking for faults as i can't make head nor tail of the haynes manual diagrams ops:

also even with the heater on cold it still seems to only produce hot air, i don't know if this has any bearing on any of it??

cheers for your time

TG

Could try wiring the blower direct to the battery (with an inline fuse for added safety) and see if it runs ok. If it does, you need to check the switch and the resistor pack. If it doesn't it's new blower time…

Agreed. Check the switch - about a fiver from GSF. Then the resistor pack (about 15 quid 2nd hand) and finally the fan (about 50 quid from GSF). The fan is a bitch (Apparently) to fit! I still have mine in the box ready for me to fit when the days get longer!!  

P.S Don't try to fit the fan through the bulkhead - it is not possible!

the 'hot air only' issue is a separate problem…old heater systems like the mark 1 use a water valve to control the flow to the heater unit. the valve can leak, which allows hot water to seep through into the heater all the time, and this heats all air entering the system, except through the side fresh air vents. Easily cured witha  new water valve for less than a tenner, but it's worth checking first that the valve is actually closing when the hot/cold slider is moved to 'cold,' as it may be that the control cable has slipped or come off

cheers for the replies guys, have just checked the switch and thats fine, the wires then go from this into the top of the casing of the heater, it looks like a big job to get it out so will have to leave it for today :?

whereabouts is the resistor pack m8 as it has no mention in the haynes manual??

cheers

TG

ThE_gOg said

cheers for the replies guys, have just checked the switch and thats fine, the wires then go from this into the top of the casing of the heater, it looks like a big job to get it out so will have to leave it for today :?

whereabouts is the resistor pack m8 as it has no mention in the haynes manual??

cheers

TG

It is the cylindrical thing that the wires from the switch go to on top of the blower (you can see it clearly from the engine side if you remove the plastic leaf guard.

ah got ya

 i've got a multi meter how would i check to see if thats ok then mate?? this haynes manual is crapola!!

cheers

TG

is there anyway of frigging it on or off just to prove either way??

cheers

TG

ThE_gOg said

is there anyway of frigging it on or off just to prove either way??

cheers

TG

woZa said

Could try wiring the blower direct to the battery (with an inline fuse for added safety) and see if it runs ok. If it does, you need to check the switch and the resistor pack. If it doesn't it's new blower time…

sorry mate i did read that but there seem to be 3 wires going to that resistor pack so am u7nsure how to do it, i just taking the guard off now so hope fully once thats off it'll be a bit clearer.

cheers

TG

ThE_gOg said

sorry mate i did read that but there seem to be 3 wires going to that resistor pack so am u7nsure how to do it, i just taking the guard off now so hope fully once thats off it'll be a bit clearer.

cheers

TG

There are 2 wires that connect to the blower itself. One is brown (i think) - use this connection to connect to the negative terminal of the battery and the other to the positive terminal.

well the fan span slowly then just died off and now its not moving at all :cry:

i take it this is new fan time then right?? will this come out through the engine bay or is it a case of ripping the interior out to get to it??

gutted was hoping it'd be a loose connection orsomething, ah well

cheers

TG

i just left the brown on m8 as i thought it wouldn't matter as its going to earth anyway?? will go and have another go now with both sides going to the battery

TG

right did that and it did spin up for a liitle longer but then just died off again to nothing :cry:

TG

its weird on the + side of the fan motor there are 2 male spade connectors right close to each other so i tried it on that and it span up again for about 5 secs then just died off slowly to nothing again :dontknow:

TG

Definitely try it with the negative direct to the battery. Could be a dodgy earth. Only other thing would be to douse the blower in wd40 or similar. My spindle was seizing - but this lead to a fuse blowing every time. Try spinning it by hand to see how stiff / free it is. Should be pretty easy to turn. If stiff then it is new blower time… Bear in mind that the gsf one needs a hole drilling in the plastic casing as the spindle is slightly longer than the original. Don't know about the ecp one…

its pretty free m8 i don't think that is the problem :?

do you have to take the lot out from the inside or will the fan assembly come out from the engine bay if i was to remove the wiper etc for clearance??

cheers

TG

Some say it will come out through the engine bay but I couldn't. Had to have it out from inside. Not too bad a job to be honest. You can do it without disconnecting the heater matrix too if you are careful.

well will give it a go see what happens, must be something to do with the fan or it should be spining up fine when connected to the battery right??

i'll just order one then and hope it cures it, if not i'll have a fan for sale in the near future

cheers for your help once again m8 i'd be lost without it

TG

No problem! One tip would be to get some draught excluder (the stuff you put around door frames. You only need a bit but when you remove the old one the old sealant will probably be knackered. Bit of draught excluder will do the job nicely. You'll see what I mean when you remove it. :wink: