DX to ABF engine wiring loom conversion

I've checked for continuity from the cps to the ECU pins and theyre fine,
What else did you say to check?

Can you help me out with the breathers?
Can I just blank these off?





Any real need for this:

1 - block
2 - block, vw part number for nice blank cap is 049 133 335 - 1.99+VAT
3 - vaccum line for ecu map sensor
4 - goes to PCV valve
5 - PCV valve

ideally fit the pcv, but if you dont have one right now cap off 4 and run the block breather somewhere it wont spit oil over everything. looks like you have a kr breather pipe on it?

Yeah it is a KR breather pipe as it won't fit. I'll have to dig te ABF pipe out but I have no idea where it's got to. I have a PVC valve but it's hard to fit as I had to bodge a water pipe on the rad so it's in the way. I'll sort that eventually.

I'll invest in some blanking pipes if they're not needed and I don't have a MAP sensor as far as I'm aware so what do i do there?

Cheers

Do you have all the part numbers listed? I bet that's handy!

with the rad pipe i find it fits better if you flip it round the other way and cut down a tad, pcv isnt that desperate really you could just route breather to a catch tank, put the outlet back to inlet pipe hole or cap it off and put breather filter on catch tank.

map sensor is in the ecu, thats what the little nipple is. if this isnt connected that probably explains why car wont run

I have many useful part numbers saved, plus i also have full etka with internet data and price updates

Ahhh, it is connected, this runs from the plastic pipes around the servo. My KR engine ECU had this too so I'm using the same pipe

ah ok thats fine, early abf went there. id use the nipple on the back of the inlet as that where it should be on late abf, cap off any unused nipples. either is fine though just use the one that is most convenient to where the ecu is located

Howdy,

Progress has been made

I've sorted the none starting issue after sticking my scanner on it.

It came up

17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer. P1570 Intermittent. I've sorted that out now, i fiddled with the earth on the immobilizer box and moved the key chip around sticking it in a different place on the key transponder.

It does run rough as a dog and sounds like it has a miss fire.

I've rescanned it and the following codes come up.

00523 - Intake air temp sensor G42 Open Circuit/Short with power. (this is because there isn't a sensor in place as yet)

00740 - Cyl 1 Recognition Sensor G145 No signal. (This is usually something to do with a cam position sensor so could this be a fault with my dizzy?)

00522 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor G62 Open Circuit/Short with power. (this will be because it isn't plugged in as yet, need to swap the space terminal on the end of the loom)

Not to mention i havn't yet sorted all of my vaccum pipes, i have only blanked them off with tape.

Just need to sort out this miss fire some how now

cool, clear the codes and see if the dizzy one comes back. if it does then unplug it for now till you can replace it

it'll run rough without the ecu temp so sort that, the inlet temp wont effect it so much.

once all the above is sorted that should make it run nice, if not just a case of go thru the usual spark leads, cap, arm etc

Yeah I'm going to have a look at it over the next few nights. I've got a air temp sensor and lambda sensors coming to me hopefully Monday.

I did clear them and the only code that stops on is the air temp circuit which doesn't make much sense. Tbh, there is a load of pressure/temp sensors unplugged on the gearbox side of the engine. I'll take some pics so we can work out what goes where.

I recon I'll need a new dizzy as mine has a cracked where it secures to the head, it doesn't move or leak tho.

When it was tuned at TSR performance with the K-jet system, the vernier cam pulley was adjusted to get the max power out of the engine with the silly high lift cams. Would this have an effect on how it runs now the kjet and old adjustable dizzy has been replaced with the ABF running gear?

Maybe the timing is slightly retarded or advanced? Hence the missing hesitating sound of the engine and the popping back?

i would start by resetting the vernier pulley to TDC then work from there. if the cams are really wild then you might find that the idle is a bit off as the cams throw out the vacuum reading to the map sensor

Hi pal.

Just wondering what wire goes where for the rev counter?

I'm having a bit of a nightmare with it at the moment. When it eventually starts it miss fires and pops back, when i rev high to clear it out its ok for a short while then does it again. I've tested the coil this is fine, all of the ht leads are ok, there is a voltage to the crank sensor so ok and i have a spark on all of the plugs.. If i remove each HT lead one by one while the engine is running it doesnt really make much difference untill i check cylinder 4.

I wondered if you knew of any wiring faults that i could check or if you have come across this?

Maybe the switched live to the coil is no good?

does anyone know how to test a distributor? whos to say this works?

Also, what do I do with they key transponder? Ive stuck the chip to it but sometimes I have to move the chip around to get her to start
thanks alot

are you still using the dizzy with a crack in it? try disconnecting the hall sensor plug for now till you get a new one. this will kick the ecu into batch fire mode so you'll loose a bit of power but it should still run fine. if you have a lambda try unplugging it for now.

get your diagnostics on there and check the measuring blocks as well as the fault codes, you can see real time the values from the coolant and inlet temp sensors, throttle position that kind of thing.

cant remember if we checke before but is it the right type of coil? the early ones have different lead fitment to late. basically compare the lead hole to the dizzy cap, the right one should have a pin in the hole

How will it run without the hall sensor? Is it the plug with 3 wires direct into the dizzy?

I've had a look at it again tonight. I've put the vernier pulley back to TDC and in doing so I noticed the rotar arm wasn't quite on the #1 mark, I then realised there are 2 threaded holes either side of the dizzy so I removed the screws and twisted the dizzy until the rotor and #1 mark lined up then put the bolts back in. This made no difference at all. I put the scanner back on and notices the coolant temp sensor was reading -40 deg C so I swapped it for a spare and it is now reading 160 deg C. I suspect both sensors are duff :-(

I checked the coil as you said and it does have a pin in the centre where the king lead goes.

It now has an air speed sensor in place but no air filter.

Yeah it is still the distributor with the broken bracket, I have another on order.

I'm thinking distributor, temp sensor and a new crank sensor? It might be worth knowing that the RpM on my scanner is reading 450rpm with the engine off.

It is over fuelling big time as the plugs are black and it smokes like mad from the exhaust, I can also smell fuel.

Would it still run with the mk1 accumulator in place, not had time to whip it off yet.

Any way to sum up, miss firing and popping, smoking from the b'zorst, strougles to start and when it finally runs will not idle. Hmmmm :-(

yeah hall sender is the 3 pin plug on the dizzy, with it unplugged you loose a bit of power but it will still run ok just feels slightly less smooth on/off throttle I found. still got plenty of power!

but sort the ecu temp sender out, its one of the sensors that HAS to be good for a happy abf. if its reading -40 or 160 then no wonder engine runs like ass!

will be fine with accumulator, my mk2 abf has it still and its got 166bhp

yhpm

Ahhh, I saw these on my ABF head :-)


This is the coil I have. Any good?

yep theres your sensor, and the blank for the thermoswitch too. coil looks just fine, though you're missing a wire to the -ve for your rev counter

Yeah I know, I need to find out which one it is for the rpm

Let's hope this works then :-) was hoping my distributor would have been here today too :-(

Fitted the new temp sensor and put the solus pro back on and it is now reading correctly. 8 deg C on a cold engine on an 8 deg C day ;-)

It wouldn't start tho but the battery went flat pretty much straight away :-(

I'll bang it on a good charge at work tomorrow for 8 hrs and see what happens. Fingers crossed my distributor should arrive tomorrow also.