Faulty mk 1 cluster

Hi guys i need help . I have a mk1 caddy bakkie . It has a 2L 8v motor in with dictator  .  My cluster flicker  light stays bright  ? My clock doesnt work ,fuel gauge  doesn't  work ,temp gauge doesn't  work . But when i put the lights  on the fuel gauge goes to full and when i put it off it goes to empty

Fuel and temp gauge probably means 10v stabiliser needs replacing 

The one with the 3 legs ?

The one with the 3 legs ? I tried  4 different  clusters

Replace your main grounds battery to frame frame to engine.

Add a new ground from the pin2 brown of your cluster connector to the firewall behind the cluster

Replace the 10V stabilizer on the rear of the cluster.
35-60 bucks from VWheritage werks34.de. Or find
at a electrics shop or ebay.

LM7810-AET. or a LM2940T-10   Cheaper off EBAY, and order 4 or 5 of them.

You did run a Ground wire off the Valve cover nut over to the Coil Bracket on the fire wall?

Briano1234  i did replace the ground wire from battery to tray and then tray to  mounting .  I have no ground behind cluster against  firewall . And there is no ground from my coil do you have picture of the ground for the coil ?

Valve cover bracket on right rear side of the valve cover ( as you are looking at it).

To the Coil Bracket.


Why show Clean Pictures of my engine bay. .


ok, after cleaning



Me after.

 

Thank you wil do it tonight  and see if it works .

Briano1234  i did everything  as you said . Just must find that little 10v stabilizer  and hope its that cluster is dead only the clock comes on . Do you think it can be the stabilizer  ?

Splice in a ground on Pin2 (brown) on the connector side give you enough slack so you can remove the connector.

Plump up your cluster connector add a ground.


See: https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/improving-your-cluster-connections-and-ground.24949/?post_id=753377#post-753377

I did add a ground to the clusters brown wire aswell . And still only clock  comes on

Briano1234  i got the problem  sorted . There was not a consistent of 12v going into cluster . Traced the plug wire seems there is fault with that plug .  I put the cluster directly  on to the ignition  that is works now .  Only thing that isnt working is my fuel gauge  . Any help where to loo ?

Take out your rear seat.
Undo the cover over your Tank sender.
Take the plug off the sender, place a 9V Dc battery to the plug.  Positive to the violet wire, and negative to the brown.  If your gauge moves correctly then you have issue with the sender.  
DO NOT REMOVE THE SENDER IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN 1/2 of a tank.

IF the gauge doesn't move then you have issues with the violet wire to the cluster, or the gauge.  

Take the 9V dc battery and place it directly on the gauge same as I suggested with the water temp.  Gauge moves then it is a broke violet wire or the connection between the Fuel Gauge and the connector.

Short out the Violet wire to ground, and then measure for a ring between or 0 ohms between 0 ohms or a ring tone then the issue is the connector and mylar.

Thank you will try it and see  if can find the problem

Briano1234  howsit man my temp  gauge also isnt working . But the light is blinking   the whole tme but gauge doesnt move

There is a Low coolant relay in the mix numbered 42.
VW #191919376A

You may want to take the gauge out and look at my fix your flaky water temp gauge, by unsoldering an respldering the connections.

The light could be that if you have a coolant level sender in the middle of the expansion tank may have corroded Contacts they may need to be cleaned with some sand paper.

https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/repairing-your-flaky-water-temp-gauge.32211/

Thank you  do you think that wil be the problem i tried  4 different  clusters all the same ?

Check the back of the cluster.
If the Battery trick directly to the cluster causes the Gauge to move, then it isn't the gauge.

if the Light flickers, and you have the expansion jug coolant level sensor in the middle, then remove it, IIRC it is either a 28mm or 27mm nut to remove it. A pair of slip joint pliers works too remove it.



The tips of the sensor can get scaled up, and you have to clean them.  Also if you aren't running a 50/50 blend of AF/Water in your jug they will flicker the light to say the coolant level isn't correct.  

I kept my coolant level to the Seam of the jug where the top meets the body.

On some revisions of the jug, the makers didn't drill a small hole at the top of the level sensor hole below the threaded part, this allowed any trapped air to move out, and keep the level sensor equal.  The lack of the bleed hole could cause an air bubble to form and prevent the fluid from surrounding the sensor giving a false low condition.

Take your sender wires off the Coolant temp sender, and short it to ground, then measure the input pin to ground to validate that you have 0 OHMs or a ring tone. on t14/y/r.Ig you look at the typical coolant level schematic, the only thing left is either that you have 4 bad gauges inside the clusters, and you need to take them apart and clean the Solder joints.  I have had 2 bad ones from the wrecking yard, so it is a common issue or sorts, or your coolant level relay is bad.



If the wire check good from  the cluster  connector to the sender you may also have a bad connector and need to plump it up, or a bad mylar run from pin 14/4 to the gauge, and you will have splice a wire from the connector loom side to the Gauge itself.

As the normal sender is a Varying Ground to the Gauge.
I can't remember which way is more resistance cold or hot being max.  

The Flickering light could be that you have the incorrect gauge for the car.  If you don't have the coolant level sensor in the middle of your jug, then you will need to install a resistor between the coolant level input of the cluster to ground to trick the flashing light off.

Briano1234  i tried the 9v battery on the fuel gauge wire gauge does not move at all?