Respray/stonechip advice

Hi, can anyone advise on what areas were originally
stonchipped on a series 2 mk1 gti. The car will be painted in Helios blue. Id heard the bottom of the windscreen should be black inside the car along with the two uprights near the radiator in the enfine bay.
  Also how far up did the stone chip come on the sills and front rear valances? The car is heavily modified but i want the exterior to look as close original as possible. If anyone could post a few pictures as well id really appreciate that. Thanks

Well I can't say as there were no MK2 MK1's ever, VW used another acronym as in A1, A2…. but everyone else referred to them as MK1 from the UK prospective.

MK1's that I have owned (rabbit/golf tin top, and Cabriolets) rock chipped at the hood lips and length, as well as behind the rear of the front wheel arch and the front and rear edge of the wheel arches on the rear from road spray off the front tire.  

On my tin top as I installed mud flaps about 3 days after ownership didn't suffer as much as those that didn't have them installed ( I installed them front and rear.)

The Cabriolets that I have don't have much road rash on the rear of the front arches due to the clipper kit installed, and the rear arches front while having the Vinyl overlay doesn't suffer as much, I still have some at there the Clipper arch meets the body at the front and non at the rear.

Now with that being said my tin top was a LS model and had the plastic fender well covers over the arches at the front with which a lot of that negated the stone chips.

I drove my tin-top originally on back roads, and 300K + when I sold it.  I drove it in snow for the first 6 years of it's life.  I attribute the no rust condition on a few things that I did when I bought it.  

1. I sprayed about 6-7 cans of undercoat on the lower body, and inner wheel arches.
2. I affixed mud flaps
3. I accidentally drove over a freshly oiled road (rock hadn't been dropped yet while driving the "Back roads" between towns after about 2 months of ownership, which further Weather-proofed the car.  It was 2 weeks of work getting the spray off the body sides, with Diesel and a soft brush, and rags.

Don't have any Digital pics of the rock chips that I had on my 81, (digital cameras weren't normal, and I didn't take too many pictures of it at all.)  my Cabbies are well documented, and all imperfections can be seen… "if you look Closely.  But most of the pictures were taken at a distance


  

Thanks for that reply. The whole underside/ wheel arches have been stone chipped so i just need to work out what to do with sills and front and rear valances now.

Well for the forward Valance I would say spray it then use one of those Vinyl or clear vinyl coverings to put over it after it is spayed.

Sounds like a good idea, do you know the name of it?
  Its how far up the valances and sills id really like to see from factory if anyone can help with pictures? Cheers.

Well all I have really found was the clear protectorant like a wrap.  

Homepage| Paint Protection Film Kits | Pre-Cut Clear Bras | ClearMask  

They sell it by the linear foot.

You might try google or a search engine.

I am not sure how useful the photos will be as my car is locked away in the garage, but I will try to explain as well. it's still wearing all its original paint but after 100k miles the front is pretty stone blasted by now!

The front valance stone chip goes right up to the cut outs in the valance behind the bumper, and if I am honest the small strip of metal underneath the bottom of the grille does seem a little thicker. On the front lower quarter of the wings, the stone chip goes up behind the bumper.

On the sills the stone chip goes right up to the top of the black clip on trim, in fact even a few mm above it.

At the back the stone chip,goes right up to the horizontal crease that just about lines up with the holes where the bumper irons go through, it's also much heavier the lower down the valance you go.

Fro the rear wings, just like the front the stone chip goes up to behind the bumper.

Texture wise it's smoother than Hammerite apart from as mentioned the lowest part of the rear valance where it's quite rough textured.


 

In the off chance you are anywhere near post code DE65 your welcome to come and have a look
daniboy123
 

Great stuff thanks for that Richard. Unfortunately im over 100 miles away but i can take these words and photos into the bodyshop so he knows how i want it. The tricky part is going to be getting the texture right i guess. People have mentioned a further clear coat that can be applied to aid protection but im not sure if it would be worth the extra time/expense.