Fuel pump relay with fuse.

I need one of these or something that can take it’s place.

1980 1.6 GTI

These are like rocking horse poo that’s been nibbled with hens teeth.

Also. Does anyone know how to wire in a simple switch to the fuse board pins to allow me to move the care around just for now?  

Does anyone know of someone who can repair these. I’m in Solihull so ideally locally.

Longest of all shots does anyone have one near Solihull or can borrow to prove to myself this is the issue.

Fuel pump uses to run constantly ever since I had the car. About 5 years or so. Now does no run at all.

It’s a new pump last year when I did a tank swap on the car so pretty sure the pump is fine.  

Any help appreciated.  

Thanks.




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I have the same car and had the same issue. I rang Mark at ClassicVW and he got 4 from the States and i bought one. But they’re £100..
To test it is that before you shell out, pull your old relay and put a jumper lead between the top and bottom slots on the fuseboard. This will make the pump run constantly, even with no key in the ignition.
If that happens, then yes your relay is dead.

Thank you. Will do the test.  Don’t want to spend £100 unless I have to.

What it a like for like relay or some other make / style?  If you have a picture of make and part number I can ask some of my team who work I. The USA to see if they can get it a little cheaper.


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All the relays are numbered the same other than the last character which is a letter. You need the one ending in ‘C’ as the fifth smaller pin is in a different position to later relays


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gregpank said

All the relays are numbered the same other than the last character which is a letter. You need the one ending in ‘C’ as the fifth smaller pin is in a different position to later relays


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Straight in the slot above the fuel pump relay

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On most Fuel pump relays, if you Jumper pin 20 to pin 87, on your fuse panel that by-passes the relay.  The issue is that on the older ones the 30 amp fuse on the top is between one of the pins and the Pump IIRC.  So you would be running your pumps unfused, and that is a bad thing.

This is from a 85 Cabriolet.

Jumped the fuse board and got a moment of life.

However the wire got very hot as it was a bit thin. Will buy a switch and in line fuse holder to jump it properly to make sure the new ish fuel pump is fine.


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Well 15 0r 30 amps is a ton of current for a thin wire .

I can remember jumpering a Brake switch with a paperclip and getting a nice burn mark on my finger tips once.  But Got the car started for a friend… A standard paper clip isn't a good jumper but when you are at the office and need to help out…

Although I did use a big Honking paper clip to Bridge my
Glow plug fuse once…Worked great for the 60 miles trip back home to the dealers to get the fusible link.

So replaced the fuse. Still no power to the pump. I have dropped the pump down and put a booster in it. Works fine. So now I need to find why no power.

Any suggestions?  




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So I’m getting closer but need some more help please.

So when I turn the key and go to crank the engine the fuel relay is clicking so it’s obviously engaging.

Additionally it fired with the pump running via the boater pack.  

Therefore I need to see if the relay is giving an output to the pump.

On the back of the fuse board I assume the relay will make a pin go live on one of the coloured plugs? Does anyone know for sure which pin should go live on the back of the fuse board when cranking the engine to power the pump?  Is it on block A? Left hand side block as you look at this picture.  

If someone can help identify the pin I can get a meter on it and see if there is an output.

Equally if there is no output does anyone know where the input voltage pin is for the fuel pump relay so I can test the high amp feed also ?  




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Verify that you have a good ground at the motor.
I still haven't found my early Rabbit Bentley/or Haynes.

IIRC in the Archive section there were pin outs of the fuse panel/wiring.

Just because the relays clicking doesn’t absolutely mean its working.

Do you bridge where the relay goes with a bit of thick wire to make the pump run constantly as a test? If this made the pump run continuously, then its likely the relay.

Or if you’ve already done that and the test worked, did you get a new relay?

gregpank said

Just because the relays clicking doesn’t absolutely mean its working.

Do you bridge where the relay goes with a bit of thick wire to make the pump run constantly as a test? If this made the pump run continuously, then its likely the relay.

Or if you’ve already done that and the test worked, did you get a new relay?

Stick a 17 in the slot above

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Band new relay

£100?

As Brian says going to try the earth. Also double check the live feed at tue pump end.

If not then I for sure need to check the fuse box.


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I know I know, it made a grown man cry (me) having to pay it. But if it’s gone, you have no choice, do you?
Obviously do every other check to eliminate everything else first.
Did you bridge it and make the pump run constantly?
If so, would she start?


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I can't find it now (typical) but somewhere on here is a post with full diagrams labeling for the fuse box. That's what you need.

Struggling for time as normal.

So new relay fitted.
Pump checked out and runs when direct powered.
Main HT lead f****ed. but that should not stop the fuel pump.
Fuses good.
Ran a direct earth from the pump to battery negative. No difference.

Time to start tracing wires.

The fuel pump wires are in a sheath and go up under the fuel tank. (I don’t want to drop it again). Do we know where it goes? Can I access it under the rear seat to do a resistance check end to end between pump and where it might split.  

Then from there I assume the two wires run in the car somewhere to the fuse board. Getting this confirmed will rule a little more out.


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Found it I think.   

This red/yellow is the live to the pump.

It had been cut and wired of an ignition live on the fuse box.

I cannot find the other half. If anyone can team me which block or blade this should terminate on it would be fantastic.

Thank you.

Other people’s mods are the worse on wiring.


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I have bodged it massively to get it to run so just need to find the fault.

I put a battery booster pack to power this live feed and she started like a dream.  

Now just need to find how to wire it correctly. Ordered a Haynes
Manual from eBay.


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Well done mate. Diagnosis seems to be 75% of the battle - most of the time!


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