Clipper Service Qs

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to do a full service on my 1989 Clipper 1.8 carb and was wanting to confirm a few bits before i order anything.

Placing an order on Halford (I have a voucher before people suggest other places) looking at the following : 

-   Comma XStream G48 Antifreeze and Coolant RM 5L : Comma G48 Antifreeze and Coolant RM 5L | Halfords UK

-   Castrol Magnatec 10W40 A3 B4 Oil 4 Litre : Castrol Magnatec 10W40 A3 B4 Oil 4 Litre | Halfords UK

-   Bosch Oil Filter : https://www.halfords.com/euro-car-parts?cgid=165700&pid=501770057

-   Bosch Fuel Filter : https://www.halfords.com/euro-car-parts?cgid=165539&pid=503440077

-   Bosch Spark Plugs : https://www.halfords.com/euro-car-parts?cgid=165736&pid=408771860

-   Bosch Air Filter : https://www.halfords.com/euro-car-parts?cgid=165722&pid=502440167

Would appreciate any feedback as to are these the right things to be ordering? Have I missed anything? How much coolant and oil are needed? 

Thanks!

Skip the bosch oil filter, and plugs.
Bosch oil filter has been cost reduced, and may lead to a flaky oil light at idle after warm, they are equivalent to
Generic/Fram filters stay away.

Stay with Wix, Mann, Mahl, STP, Pureolator Gold are far superior.

NGK plugs are superior to Bosch.  The last set of Bosch's I bought (triple Plats) had 2 bad plugs in the box, as well as the replacement set had 1 bad plug in it.

I Don't trust Bosch, any more than I used to trust Lucas for electrical things.

I have been using NGK plugs, and my Cabbies ran better, jumped Higher and you noticed the difference.

For a detailed list:
http://cabby-info.com/Files/SparkPlugs.pdf
 

Great thanks! Just my ignorance I assumed Bosch would be good quality 😂 

Will swap time NGK plugs and Mann air and oil filters. 

Do you know if 4 litres of oil and 5 litres of coolant is enough or do I need to order 2 bottles of each?
Thanks!

Not contradicting Briano but I've been OK with Bosch parts, perhaps in the US they end up with Brazilian/Mexican parts whereas in UK we have parts from the continent?

To aviod any doubt, go to main delaer or CrazyQuiffs and get a genuine VW filter?. Also get a new copper washer if you think the one on it has been used 10 times already.

From memory oil with filter is 4 litres, cooling system is 6+ litres. Get concentate and put in 3 litres and top upwith water after flushing system.

If you are doing a full service drain the gear box and replace with GL4 75w/90 (2 litres) and bleed the brakes with freash DOT4.

wormitcabby said

Great thanks! Just my ignorance I assumed Bosch would be good quality 😂

Will swap time NGK plugs and Mann air and oil filters.

Do you know if 4 litres of oil and 5 litres of coolant is enough or do I need to order 2 bottles of each?
Thanks!

Early-1800 said

Not contradicting Briano but I've been OK with Bosch parts, perhaps in the US they end up with Brazilian/Mexican parts whereas in UK we have parts from the continent?

To aviod any doubt, go to main delaer or CrazyQuiffs and get a genuine VW filter?. Also get a new copper washer if you think the one on it has been used 10 times already.

From memory oil with filter is 4 litres, cooling system is 6+ litres. Get concentate and put in 3 litres and top upwith water after flushing system.

If you are doing a full service drain the gear box and replace with GL4 75w/90 (2 litres) and bleed the brakes with freash DOT4.

Well I have seen issues with Bosch filters on this side of the pond, as well as plugs and a wire set.  Mexican made I know not.  I know over here friends don't let friends use FRAM or Bosch…. .

I actually got about 2 MPG better mileage off of the NGK plugs, and well that is better I noticed that my Engines ran better… Not Imagined but actual.

As far as Liters/quarts, I know with my external oil coolers I used almost 5 quarts of Oil as when I am changing oil, I put in 4 Quarts, then start the engine and let it warm a bit shut down wait 5 minutes and top it off.

Just something I have done for years….decades.

Yep I use Quarts, Pounds of force, and other US named things as I don't know better….. Over hear a Bonnet is what you put on a baby's head to stop it from getting sunburned.  The Tires are put in the Trunk not the boot, as Boots are what you wear in the Muddy/Construction/Wet times on your feet.  The Hood is over the engine not the Cabin, and the Top covers the open Cabin….

I specially like the Dual Meaning words like Polish.

Do you Polish your Sausage and or Polish your car.

and when discussing Poland why do they refer to them as the Polish People, do they walk around with cans of wax and Polish everything?

Yep, you get further in life with a sense of Oxymoronic humor….

My Uncle who was married to a Eye-Tallian, loved to say the only difference between being Irish or Eye-Tallian, was where the Vowel was in your last name….at the front Irish, at the Rear Eye-tallian, my aunt would give him the Laser Eye's….or the Hundred Yard Murder Stare…. And for heavens sake, my Mother used to say to me Oh,Brian…. and I would correct her, it is O'Conne…Brian O'Conne….Don't you remember you named me……. so she started the briano…..I think the first time I said it was about 7, and 2 days later I awoke from the Coma of the Pot over my head…..I homage to the land and county that my family originated in prior to us coming across the pond, we go through some MAYOnnaise, the Coffee behind describes my family perfectly Chock full O'Nuts.



Yes we were down to our last jar, so it was BOGO at our market so we stocked up.. I now have 11 quarts… (BOGO buy one get one free.).


Hope I made you smile, now back to our regular thread…..

 

Nothing wrong with Bosch stuff here.

Oil filters - you can't get them from main dealers any more. I imagine a lot of other outlets still sell genuine ones though.

Coolant - if you're doing a full flush and refill there is no reason not to go for a higher (ie longer lasting) spec. Its very confusing but last time I looked into it there's G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 or something like that. Some of them are just the same except more environmentally friendly to dispose of (and more expensive too) so its up to you, its not a massively critical thing though which you use. If you're unable to flush the old stuff out, then you'll need one which is compatible with what's in the car though.

If Bosch is good in the UK I'll probably stick with them then, thanks for all the input.

Quick question on coolant flush, is this as simple as :
- drain current coolant 
- fill with water 
- run engine
- drain water 
- fill with new coolant

And this will take 6l of coolant to do? 

Sorry for so many questions! 

re: coolant flush

Starting with a cold engine what I do is put heater setting to hot. Undo lower rad hose and collect old AF, undo upper and lower water pump hoses and collect AF. Dispose of AF.

Undo rad top hose and hose side of head. Stick a garden hose in all open holes in rad, block and hoses and rad in turn and flush water every-which-way until it runs clean.

Reconnect all hoses. Put in 3litres concentrate blue ethylene glycol, top up with water. it will be @40+% strength good for -30c (which it will never ever get in western europe) or 6+litres of ready mixed.

Note as Paul has mentioned there are about 10 different types of AF and you aren't supposed to mix them and the later red/purple coloured ones aren't supposed to be old car friendly.

Also note the later spring type jubilee clips can be fun getting back on and 20+ year old hoses often want to split and leak when disturbed for the 1st time in 10+ years
 

Ethylene glycol just doesn't make sense any more, if you're doing a flush.

Early-1800 said

re: coolant flush

Starting with a cold engine what I do is put heater setting to hot. Undo lower rad hose and collect old AF, undo upper and lower water pump hoses and collect AF. Dispose of AF.

Undo rad top hose and hose side of head. Stick a garden hose in all open holes in rad, block and hoses and rad in turn and flush water every-which-way until it runs clean.

Reconnect all hoses. Put in 3litres concentrate blue ethylene glycol, top up with water. it will be @40+% strength good for -30c (which it will never ever get in western europe) or 6+litres of ready mixed.

Note as Paul has mentioned there are about 10 different types of AF and you aren't supposed to mix them and the later red/purple coloured ones aren't supposed to be old car friendly.

Also note the later spring type jubilee clips can be fun getting back on and 20+ year old hoses often want to split and leak when disturbed for the 1st time in 10+ years
 

I take off the t-stat cover and remove the t-stat reconnect the cover and flush and back flush until it runs clear and clean.  I usually take the hoses off the heater core and flush that separately at the same time as the heater core back flushed gets alot of the scale out of it.  You can also use some vineagar, pour it in the
Upper hose and then plug the bottom, let sit about 1 hour and it gets it really clean, and when re-connected it will burn your buttocks out of the car.

Briano1234 said

Early-1800 said

re: coolant flush

Starting with a cold engine what I do is put heater setting to hot. Undo lower rad hose and collect old AF, undo upper and lower water pump hoses and collect AF. Dispose of AF.

Undo rad top hose and hose side of head. Stick a garden hose in all open holes in rad, block and hoses and rad in turn and flush water every-which-way until it runs clean.

Reconnect all hoses. Put in 3litres concentrate blue ethylene glycol, top up with water. it will be @40+% strength good for -30c (which it will never ever get in western europe) or 6+litres of ready mixed.

Note as Paul has mentioned there are about 10 different types of AF and you aren't supposed to mix them and the later red/purple coloured ones aren't supposed to be old car friendly.

Also note the later spring type jubilee clips can be fun getting back on and 20+ year old hoses often want to split and leak when disturbed for the 1st time in 10+ years
 

I take off the t-stat cover and remove the t-stat reconnect the cover and flush and back flush until it runs clear and clean.  I usually take the hoses off the heater core and flush that separately at the same time as the heater core back flushed gets alot of the scale out of it.  You can also use some vineagar, pour it in the
Upper hose and then plug the bottom, let sit about 1 hour and it gets it really clean, and when re-connected it will burn your buttocks out of the car.

The problem with removing the thermostat cover is that you then need a new rubber ring seal and they are notorious for the bolts shearing off and/or the plastic elbow warping and not resealing

Early-1800 said

Briano1234 said

Early-1800 said

re: coolant flush

Starting with a cold engine what I do is put heater setting to hot. Undo lower rad hose and collect old AF, undo upper and lower water pump hoses and collect AF. Dispose of AF.

Undo rad top hose and hose side of head. Stick a garden hose in all open holes in rad, block and hoses and rad in turn and flush water every-which-way until it runs clean.

Reconnect all hoses. Put in 3litres concentrate blue ethylene glycol, top up with water. it will be @40+% strength good for -30c (which it will never ever get in western europe) or 6+litres of ready mixed.

Note as Paul has mentioned there are about 10 different types of AF and you aren't supposed to mix them and the later red/purple coloured ones aren't supposed to be old car friendly.

Also note the later spring type jubilee clips can be fun getting back on and 20+ year old hoses often want to split and leak when disturbed for the 1st time in 10+ years
 

I take off the t-stat cover and remove the t-stat reconnect the cover and flush and back flush until it runs clear and clean.  I usually take the hoses off the heater core and flush that separately at the same time as the heater core back flushed gets alot of the scale out of it.  You can also use some vineagar, pour it in the
Upper hose and then plug the bottom, let sit about 1 hour and it gets it really clean, and when re-connected it will burn your buttocks out of the car.

The problem with removing the thermostat cover is that you then need a new rubber ring seal and they are notorious for the bolts shearing off and/or the plastic elbow warping and not resealing

Well I got a fix for you.
The cost of the o-ring is about 2 dollars and if you re flushing your system with cold water the t-stat won't be open and you don't get the full value of the flush as it will be impeded.

https://www.aliexpress…057483.0.0.6b46119aCNxMpW




https://www.ebay.com/i…-055121121F-/323164212997



ohhh ebay
https://www.ebay.fr/it…-037121133C-/311890332290

They even are making the 90's plastic flange out of metal
https://www.aliexpress…057483.0.0.f3cb3723Dr3CgA




The bolts for them need to be cleaned up, coated with copper grease and then torqued to no more than 87 IN/lbs and you won't snap them.  Start them by hand and then use a 1/4 drive 6pt socket to tighten, then use a torque wrench 1/4 drive and set to 87 in/lbs…DO NOT USE YOUR ELBOW TORQUE WRENCH….9.8Nm.