Anyone built up split rims themselves
Posted
#1629241
(In Topic #223699)
Old Timer
Colour Centre poll
Recently became the proud owner of some Schmidt TH lines 14x8 and 9
Plan is to get the barrels and faces refurbed while I have the lips mirror polished and any imperfections removed.
Only problem is they came with only 2 bolts holding them together so I need to source some.
Can I use ordinary stainless allen bolts with nuts?
I'm planning on building them back up myself so if anyone has any hints and tips on sealing them and indeed suggestions for the centre colours I'd be very grateful
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Old Timer
Cheers for that, that's useful stuff
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Moderator
I haven't built any wheels myself and normally, as I have no experience, I wouldn't offer an opinion. But I'm just going to make a comment. Be careful with the selection of the bolts as I would imagine (could be wrong of course) that they need to be a specific grade due to the way they are being loaded.
Get some good advice on whether stainless are ok to use as stainless can be brittle and when being used in shear can break.
Just something to consider.
I was going to suggest that Mister T might be able to assist Tyre valves
But looks like he doesn't do wheel building bolts. Might be worth considering for valves and actual 'holding to the car' bolts.
As it's a black car you could go mad with the colour of the wheels. How a bout a deep candy red or a brandy wine type colour?
Depends on how much you want to stand out I suppose. Or match the wheels to an intake, engine bay or interior accent colour?
Have fun
Ian
Get some good advice on whether stainless are ok to use as stainless can be brittle and when being used in shear can break.
Just something to consider.
I was going to suggest that Mister T might be able to assist Tyre valves
But looks like he doesn't do wheel building bolts. Might be worth considering for valves and actual 'holding to the car' bolts.
As it's a black car you could go mad with the colour of the wheels. How a bout a deep candy red or a brandy wine type colour?
Depends on how much you want to stand out I suppose. Or match the wheels to an intake, engine bay or interior accent colour?
Have fun
Ian
Posted
Old Timer
Cheers
borednow
I was unsure on the bolt specs
I did consider though that due to there being 20+ bolts per wheel and them all being such low torque setting that hi ten steel probably wasn't going to be necessary although I will check first
I did consider though that due to there being 20+ bolts per wheel and them all being such low torque setting that hi ten steel probably wasn't going to be necessary although I will check first
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settled In
I've built up many sets of splits, both 2 piece and 3 piece. Don't use stainless bolts as they have a lower tensile strength v's the correct high tensile bolts. It's not worth the risk.
Bolts should be available from Schmidt direct. If you can't get them, then try RSFelgenin Germany. Their website is worth a drool anyway.
Bolts should be available from Schmidt direct. If you can't get them, then try RSFelgenin Germany. Their website is worth a drool anyway.
1980 Mars Red GTI BRMotorsport 142
1983 Black GTI
1983 Black GTI
Posted
Old Timer
benandemu
any idea what tensile the bolts should be as I've looked on a few sites now and none of them mention the bolt strength but all stock stainless
What have you previously used, as I'm also considering the corrosion side of things
What have you previously used, as I'm also considering the corrosion side of things
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settled In
Like I said, I'd try Schmidt, and then RS Felgen. Compomotive or Image would be both reputable and knowledgeable UK companies to seek advice from.
BBS were very specific with me, as was Roland Gamperling from RS Felgen.
BBS were very specific with me, as was Roland Gamperling from RS Felgen.
1980 Mars Red GTI BRMotorsport 142
1983 Black GTI
1983 Black GTI
Posted
Old Timer
OK read a lot more into this and it's all down to the grade of bolts.
Majority of stainless is A2 grade but split rim bolts should be A4-70 or A4-80, the later is slightly stronger but not enough to make a difference in a split rim m6 application.
Its actually quite interesting to read that pretty much all split rim manufacturers specify a torque rating higher than the bolts are actually recommended to take, which means in short they will stretch to a degree so you should never ever buy secondhand split rim bolts
Majority of stainless is A2 grade but split rim bolts should be A4-70 or A4-80, the later is slightly stronger but not enough to make a difference in a split rim m6 application.
Its actually quite interesting to read that pretty much all split rim manufacturers specify a torque rating higher than the bolts are actually recommended to take, which means in short they will stretch to a degree so you should never ever buy secondhand split rim bolts
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settled In
Do Schmidt definitely use M6 bolts, my RS's use M7?
I have genuine BBS bolts on mine, and they state 10.9 on the head, which I assume is referring to its tensile rating.
It's not a great photo, but you just about make it out on this pic.
I have genuine BBS bolts on mine, and they state 10.9 on the head, which I assume is referring to its tensile rating.
It's not a great photo, but you just about make it out on this pic.
Posted
Old Timer
Yep well the TH lines do at least, most other brands seem to be m7.
10.9 is quite a high strength but because the bolts are so small only a small amount of torque can be applied to them which greatly reduces the forces they can take anyway
10.9 is quite a high strength but because the bolts are so small only a small amount of torque can be applied to them which greatly reduces the forces they can take anyway
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Moderator
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