Stripped thread in brake drum.

Following Phils post I checked my wheel nuts as I have just changed the wheels, sure enough one out of the sixteen had wound itself out! Anyway fixed that, went to tighten the others and doh, stripped thread.

I am not a jumper on wheel brace type so I guess its just old.

So, to the question, checked the GSF website https://secure.gsfcarparts.com/shop/next.asp and new drums are cheap although there are 3 listed?

But, I am actually broke at the moment, can I replace just one without replacing anything else like brake pads etc.

Peter.

D'OH!
it's bound to be the more expensive one! I've brought some fairly recently for mine, if I get chance and if nobody can confirm which one I'll check when I get home this afternoon(still got the box's with the old drums in) and let ya know which they supplied me!

Must be that time of year for wheel trouble

Its 62240 in the catalogue. Don't forget your bearings.

Cheers
Rajan

Bearings?

Oh no. What now?

Perhaps I should explain, I have never done this job before and we are just about to move and all my manuals are packed. I labelled the box quite clearly in case of emergency! Which this might be…

Peter.

The Rear Drums don't come with the bearing 'runners' and don't think the original's will come out of the old drum without breaking them! if that makes any sense?

?12 for a bearing kit from Halfords.. but I have a spare set of new runners if you want to use your old bearings! PM me your address (if your not moving in the next 4-5 days that is :wink: ) and I'll post them to you if you want?

Thanks for the help chaps.

Looks like I am going to have to break the seal on the manuals box!

Phil, I'll let you know when I know what's what.

Peter.

If they're OK then you don't need to change anything like brake pads, etc, and one new drum won't make a difference IMO though 2 new obviously better !
As Rajan said, the drums will come without bearings. You'll have to buy these seperately. Not a major job to fit - you need to tap home the bearing races into the drum (using a block of wood and / or socket that's the same size as the outer edge of the bearing), grease up the bearings themselves, tap in dust seal and reassemble. Just don't overtighten the hub nut when you build it back up or the bearings won't last that long.
I'd move it on three wheel nuts if I were you, or get a 2nd hand drum (that will have the bearings already in !) from the scrapyard as a temp measure. I think all Mk1 rear drums are the same (and are the same on Polo's & prob non-Gti Mk2's, etc, also). GSF prob list different qualities - they have the cheapo brand plus a German brand to choose from usually.
Good luck,
Mark

I'd move it on three wheel nuts if I were you, or get a 2nd hand drum (that will have the bearings already in !) from the scrapyard as a temp measure.

Cheers Mark, that's the way I am thinking right now. This moving house lark has kind of got all my cash tied up right now.

Peter.

Pete,

I've got drums - was coming down to Brighton this weekend but does not look like it now so it would have to go by post  :?

Been checking out on GSF and I make it.

Drums 29.6 for 2
Brake shoe set 9.75
Wheel bearing kit 6.75
Rear Hub Split pin 0.50 for 2

Total 46.6
plus dreaded =?55

Might hold on until I can do the lot. Think that's everything. Do I need to adjust anything afterwards?

Peter.

Does the split pin not come with the bearing kit's from GSF then?  :?

Not a very good kit is it!… it's like buying a puzzle that's missing a bit! I always thought a 'kit' included everything you need to do the job!

what about a Gasket kit.. does it not come with a rocker cover gasket?

but then… it's half the price of Halfords!

I think the kit will come with a split pin. I expect GSF are just able to sell them separately for when you are only replacing parts of the rear brakes and not the bearings.

Ross

peter you dont have to change both sides mate, the drum is about 18 quid and the bearing is about 6 quid (including vat) the bearing kit will have everything in it you need. dont worry about brake parts. make a note of where bearing parts are on old drum mate (give it a clean as will be covered in grease so you can see better) when you re-assemble dont overtighten bolt that holds it all together (check for play, you can always tighten up later). i think you might be worrying about nowt tho mate........ get yourself moved first then worry about wheel after

Peter, just a complete aside - are you sure it's the drum that's 'threaded' not the bolt itself ? Seems a cast drum would be harder than a mild steel bolt.

tallpete   


This months GOLF+ mag has a 3 page section dedicated to renewal of the brake drums on your MK1 in nice colour pictures with text .

Worth the money , and a good read while sitting on the bog .

Cheers………..

chudd said

Worth the money , and a good read while sitting on the bog

 :lmao: So true! it's the only place to get some peice and quiet for more than 60 seconds!

Do up your axle nuts to about 20  to 25 Ft. Lb. to seat the bearings (you should be able to estimate 25 Ft. Lb….its about a third of what you do up your wheelnuts with). Then back off the nut and retighten til the nut just touches the thrust washer. Stick the blade of a screwdriver between the washer and the brake drum and try to move the washer by levering it.  Try this from opposite sides of the drum in case the washer's bottomed out against the axle.  If the washer moves realtively easily, the nut is too slack. If it doesn't then the nut is too tight.  Keep tightening (or slackening) the nut until you can only just move the washer.  Then its OK, fit the locking device and a new split pin.

If you have a torque wrench, do it up to 25Ft.Lb.,  back it off and then retighten to about 7-8 Lb. ft.  

The final test is to put the wheel back on and rock the wheel side to side.  If any play detected, do up the nut another 1/4 turn and try the screwdriver and wheel rocking tests again . It should NOT need more than 1/2 turn to get it right.  If there is still play, you may have a damaged stub axle.

Note….the above applies to the rear bearings only …the front wheel bearings are a whole different ball game!

Cheers

OK, thanks for all the advice, found a receipt for the rear shoes from just before I bought the car so no need for those.

In answer to your question it's definitely the drum, as a rule castings are very hard but generally low strength.

Going to replace drums and bearings only.

Found that 4 page article aswell, how useful!

Only thing I am not clear on is how to get the bearing races into the drum? Everyone seems to have a different method.

Good thing is I can get all that sorted in the shed/ back room/ kitchen, before I even approach the car.

And yeah I am tempted to wait until I move because then I'll have a driveway!!!!!!!

I am so excited.

Peter.

Yo Pete

Take Chudd's advice and go spend a mo in WH Smiths with the Golf+ Magazine.  All is revealed therein for fiting brgs in drums.

I use a half inch dia brass drift to knock the outer races into the drums, gently tapping it round and round the outside edge with a hammer until the outer race is about seated against the internal register in the drum whereupon the drift gets a heafty thwack all around to finally seat the race.  When both outers are fitted, clean up your mess (and your hands) grease your outer race and the rollers of the inner part of the inner bearing and assemble the inner race on the inner bearing followed with a new grease seal.  Fit the whole drum to your stub axle and then fit the (greased) inner race of the outer bearing (you haven't mixed them up have you ??).

Fit the thrust washer and nut and tighten up, fit the locking device and split pit (new one of the correct size)  as per pevious posting.

If you have a mate with a lathe, you can have him turn up a special tool that is a midge's less than the dia of the outer race and is about 3" long.  It should have a register turned on it that is a midge's less than the inner diameter of the outer race.  This can then be used to both locate the outer race and to use with a hammer to thwack it into place….unless you have a mate with a flypress.

Have fun but remember, when messing with bearings and other internals, cleanliness is next to godliness so keep your hands and your bits (!!??) clean at all times else yer new brgs will be kerknackered in no time.

Cheers

I use a mixture of old scaffolding offcuts and sockets to fit bearing races. Nothing like having the right tools, eh ?!?
Still works a treat though.
Cheers,
Mark