rust

i have a patch of rust on the hatch at the rear, it only small surface only but has crept under window seal, this fella has quoted me 40 quid to get it sorted but i do not know how hes going to repair it without removing seal??? anyone repaired/had repaired this before? if so did u end up removing window seal?
cheers in advance,
paul

If rust goes under seal you will need to remove glass to do a proper job. Unless thats a mates rate, ?40 sounds awfully cheap, he'll probably stick filler in it and paint it which you could do yourself.

To do a proper job you'd want to replace the rot with metal, but welding in new metal is prohibatively expensive unless you do it yourself. Cheapest and easiest option for a good/long term repair is to source a rot-free 2nd hand bootlid in your cars colour car, seen a few go on here recently for little money.

Cheers

If you're worried about ihm removing the seal - don't be. It takes about 3 mins to remove the rear window and seal and not too much longer to put it back in again!

For ?40 though, He is probably not going to do the best repair…

Ah fantastic,

Just what I was going to ask about!

My lhasa green campaign is suffering a similar problem, whereby water has dripped from the upright rear wiper blade and settled aove the rubber window seal. Over the years the moisture has crept under the rubber, and under the black trim that goes around the whole rear window.

This has caused considerable 'bubbling' in this area - much to my displeasure, as the rest of the body is very good (only covered 50k and i'm its second owner). I had been considering a repair, as I would prefer the car to retain it's original bodywork. However having read the above i'm nolonger sure that this would be the best option.

A couple of questions:

Any ideas how much it should cost to get this repaired to a high standard (in the surrey area - if thats any help!)?

Has anyone got a good lhasa bootlid they'd flog me (badges and black trim condition not that important - i can get these - but colour and overall condition must be very good)?

Any help gratefully recieved!

cheers

Chris

Sorry, just to clarify what I said.. Repairs to the paint aren't a probelm but if the rust goes under the seal rear screen needs to come out (as said, not difficult). If there are any holes in the metal, particularly under the seal. In terms of cost a replacement bootlid is often the cheapest/quickest way to go, but if you want to keep your bootlid you can have new metal let in, just it will cost a bit more.

Cheers

cheers for your replies, i kind of guessed i would have to take the back hatch out to do the job properly…. bugger!   i know how to put the window and seal back in again with the old string method but how do i get seal out without cutting it?  sorry to be a pain, if i have window out i may as well tackle it myself tbh,
cheers for help,
paul

Use about 10 flat bladed screwdrivers.  Place one beteen the seal and the fram inside the hatch so the seal lip is lifted.  repeat this for all 10 screwdrivers about 2 or 3 inches aprt.  Use another to push the lip over the frame working along the top and down the sides removeing the drivers and placing them further round.  Eventually afetr about 10 mins you'll be able to lift the glass and seal away.

Works for front screen also.

When reinstalling use thin builders line as it is nylon and slides over the rubber well.

cheers pal,
ill give it a blast sunday,
paul

 if i have window out i may as well tackle it myself tbh

 :clap:

The best way to do it…… yourself

lol i hope so as long as i dont;
a, bust windscreen myself
b, make an absolute shambles of the rubber
c, get the correct paint to match
d, stay sober

seriously though,
cheers for your help

done it, 2 of us didn't take long neither, was only surface rust but half behind seal so feel much better knowing i have tackled the b&^%$*d full on
cheers for your help

I'm in the same boat with my front sreen. Rust bubble appeared from under rubber so I removed screen by cutting rubber out. I feared that the rust would have gone through but was lucky it was only surface rust. A testament to German steel I guess. I've posted about refitting screen if anyone has any tips?

Simon

i WAS using fairy liquid as a lubricant m8 but been told this shafts your paint so someone might be able to offer better advice on that????, easier with two of you, put windowscreen in rubber and strong string (again been advised against this, summat about nylon but i dont have any of that) in other channel, throw two ends of string in car and get your mate to line up windscreen and push gently, when u start pulling string your mate will see window rubber bonding onto metal, take it easy and go alway round, it will become apparent after you get started, make sure metalwork is debris free and try and get somebody to help you out

Fitted mine yesterday with the help of next door neighbour. Used a nylon cord and some silicon spray. Went well except for the passenger side top corner :x  This took a bit of pushing and cursing but went in after all. Fitted the A pillar mouldings tonight. Found that a plastic tooth brush handle with some lub' helped to get the rubber over the moulding.

Simon

winner!

When doing my rear screen found the ideal tool - plastic bike tyre levers. You can get them from any cheap diy store and come in packs of three - tough and you will not chip your paint.

Think washing up liquid contains salt/sodium in some form, which obviously is not what you want trapped under seals 8O

Cheers

RUST

What rust - this was waiting for me when i popped the front screen out it's the passenger side and the picture has been taken from behind - I have repaired it using lead solder and will post how on a new thread when i've time cheers…..

 

chudd if u want me to cut u a better panel out than that its np m8, dont want nowt for it, will only end up in scrappers,
paul

Hey Paul
            thanks for the offer but those little holes are now gone using lead solder its a lot easier than replaceing the panel and will never rust again
Cheers Mate …….