Outer panels in Etch primer

Outer panels in etch primer

Next stage prep and undercoat interior……

Out of interest Rich, you do all the spraying? - in your garage or done elsewhere?

..don't worry, I'm not about to try and blag a favour!! Just curious!

I do all my own prep and primer and I'll do solid colour in cellulose.

I get my man to do metallic in two pack.

I see you've had a repair done at your osr seatbelt anchor. Is this common???

Yeah - I cut out the old anchor and welded in one from a good rear arch.

This is a common problem as this side is open to the wheelarch.  Water eventually penetrates under the sealant and rots between the reinforcing plate and inner wheel arch.  The passenger side is within the skin of the body so doesn't typically rust

Apart from the roof, practically every exterior panel had gone on mine  , however the inner structure was remarkably sound apart from that rear drivers side seat belt mount and a 6 inch strip on the inner sill/floor pan in the passenger footwell. That particular seat belt anchorage came off in my hand when I was trying to unscrew it. I dread to think how many clean looking MK1s have this deadly trap waiting to catch some unwary sole out in the advent of a crash. I got a repair piece cut out from a sound Golf C in a scrap yard, but this was about 3 years ago.

Crazy remember to paint the front central upright support thingy, mat black. (behind the grille with the orange bar code on it). I?ve seen loads of cars that don?t have this done and esp in light colours looks really amateurish.  Also inside of the bulkhead in the corners just infront of the dash need to be done if you?ve over painted.

Those seat belt points are an MOT failure but are not picked ip in General.  This car was not too bad but it was easier to cout out the whole area and graft in a new piece.

I tell you what, getting a good doner shell is a godsend if you've got the space for it.  I had a Gold A reg 1.1 shel (?30) that had had a meduim-light front ender.  The back of the car was totally rust free.  A fair bit of it will be welded into my Green one when I get round to that (rear ended - needs boot floor, pass rear 1/4 and inner wheel arch)

Thanks for the tips on the painting - i'll do those.  Not planning and engine bay paint on this one as it's in pretty good nick.

dont your neighbours mind you spraying in your garage ? what would the council say       

I didn't know Batman read the local Oxford rag!

dubbers,

Me no understand?

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Drew's post

What size rims are going on that Pug 205?!

Ahhh..I see  

The standard 1.9 15's will go back on once he bungs the rebuilt back axle in.

Crazyquiff

Are you going to be spraying over the winter? I generally haven't because many people have told that in the winter it is cold enough for there to be moistuire in the air most of the time and this can get trapped in and beneath the new paint while its drying. Is this a bit over the top?

Also how do get on with spraying celluloise? I can get get a good glossy finish in places but find it hard to completely avoid runs. Obviously this can be sorted out with wet'ndry and a lot of my time, but is possible to get it mostly right first time? I've got quite a reasonable compressor but the gun was a bit on the cheap side - will a more expensive gun help or is it my talent that I need to work on? Finally, how many coats of top coat do you put on and do you thin the the paint more and more with each coat?  

Cheers

markwon,

Yes I will be spraying over winter, but, only on dry days that are not too cold.  No point spraying belowaboy 8 degrees C.  If it's naffing down humidity will be way up and no good for spraying.  The other day was fine.  Obviously available days are dropping fast.  the other option is to space heat but this can create dust in the air.

Get a good gun - Mine got 10/10 in a comparison and only cost aboy ?40 - from screwfix and I'm very happy with it.   Nice even spray - not too heavy.

Spraying celly, like an other paint, is a balance between too little and too much.  I find that spraying over with a light coat and then going back over to fill straight away gives the second covering something to hang onto.

Cellulose is slightly porous so a good few coats are needed.  I go for minimum of 5  max of 10 approach starting at 50% thinners (always use good quality) moving to 90% on the final coats.

Rememeber to drain down your compressor tank before every spraying session and use a good air filter.

Cheers

Rich

Thanks Crazyquiff.

Think I know the spray gun you're on about - do you have the model number? Was going to get one of the screwfix guns when I got the compressor last year, but bought a cheaper SIP one locally as I was to impatient to wait for one to turn up mail order  :roll: .

Sounds like I should get a thermometer as well. Actually this winter seems reasonely mild and dry so far, so not so bad. I won't be able to do any spraying till spring anyway as a need to do quite a bit of welding first….

Cheers

You'll be fine then - remeber that undercoat is porous also so it won't protect the car from the elements - Ok if in a Garage.

I'm pretty sure the gun I got is this one http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=19972&ts=35448