Performance Camshaft
Posted
#999085
(In Topic #118464)
Newbie
Performance Camshaft
The engine itself has been bored out to a 1.9 and i recently fitted the Audi 2.2 throttle body and ported inlet manifold to suit, all of this is mated up to a Supersprint four branch manifold.
Im thinking about fitting a peformance camshaft into the old girl and was wondering:
Whats the best manufacturer to go for
Whats the difference between 276degrees, 298degrees etc
Is it best to get a camshaft kit or just go for the cam itself
Finally, is it even going to be worth my while doing all this without having a flowed head?
Thanks in advance
Posted
Old Timer
BUT
this is only the case if the rest of the engine is up to spec, ie matched head, and exhaust set-up etc etc
also note the idle will become lumpier, and you may need to raise the idle to smooth it out and to actually get the car to idle. you will also loose power low down, so bellow 4k or so the car may have little acceleration.
for your spec I would suggest a newmans phase 3, which is a 280deg duration cam, about the longest duration you would want to go for road use on a 8v. I had one on my 8v and it was fine, the idle was a little lumper but still very happy idling at 950rpm and wasnt harsh in the car, it also pulled well from idle, and when it got to 3500 it really started to fly as the power band is 3500 to 7200rpm.
you will also need to reshim the tappets, there is a guide in the how to bit, its dead easy. but if you dont do this you wont get the most from the cam and the engine might not run, esp if the cams now holding the valves open,
a flowed head will also make the most of this mod and the rest of your engine set up.
Daily - 05 plate B6 A4 Avant S Line, with 19s for the summer.. wifes car - Rare Seat Exeo ST Sport 170 Tech
Weekend - MK2 20vt monster - Plus a mk1 caddy I am fixing for my bro
Posted
Settled In
'82 Mk1 GTI 1600 UGY74X
(Mars Red, mostly…)
(Mars Red, mostly…)
Posted
Old Timer
I have no idea on how it is on the road as the car hasn't seen ahy use since the cam went in. mainly due to an on going chassis/brake up grade.
I don't have the head flowed as yet, so I'll not get the best out of the cam, however I had a similar upgrade in my old pug GTI, that as a strong engine.
If you do get a cam make sure you fit an adjustable vernier timing wheel to the cam too ( mine was about £40.00 new on ebay ). This should help get the best out of the cam!
Projekt Frustration :
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
Posted
Settled In
What i'm getting at is the fact in choosing a wilder cam (durations of over 288 i'd think) you may get slower acceleration in much of your driving- as most of the time it's driven in the lower rev range on the road. So bear that in mind for a road car and think how often do you blat it to the red line? Think about preserving low end and mid range torque by trading off the peak power with a milder cam choice.
I'd personally like to hear from anyone who's used 276 or 280 cams in a 1.6
Posted
Settling In
I'm looking for a little more power and slight mods the my Clipper 1.8 EX
Thanks
Posted
Newbie
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