Skip navigation

Mk1 golf Cabriolet Rivage - whats wrong!!!

Post

Back to the top

Mk1 golf Cabriolet Rivage - whats wrong!!!

I have a mk1 golf Rivage, the problem is the first start of the day it will start tp perfect and tick over all day long but as soon as i give it any kind of revs, it drops away and wont start for about 8 cranks (10 minuets) Its a real pain in the arse, but after that it will run sweet no flat spots pulls like a beast and will continue to start all day but as soon as i leave it overnight the damn thing won't start - I presume it is something to do with the k-jet system so I have replaced almost every part going from injectors to fuel pump but the problem is slightly better will start up after about 5 mins but still driving me mad can anyone offer any advice?? I have also done compression tests and the pressure does drop over night, where is it leaking????

Thankful for any advice
Chris

Post

Back to the top
they do drop but its depends how much it drops by

there's a valve just after the pump (return valve) and they can start playing up, dont cost much but that sounds like your problem mate

'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming

Post

Back to the top
Well when they drop the car cuts out - I try and give it some revs to keep it alive and it gives a weird missfire kind of reaction but still cuts out

Ok il give that a try do you know where i can get one?
thanks for reply

Have you had this problem?

Post

Back to the top
not personally but my brother did, slightly different from yours with a different solution

when he put his lights on the revs drop almost to a stall, and when the indicators were on he had something funky going on with his dash

was a bad earth, so he ran an earth lead from a rocker cover nut to the body (top mount stud) and presto, perfect

try running a jump lead from the neg on the battery to the alternator bracket then play with your lights n switches… or even the dash earth point which is behind/next to the fuse/relay box (i think) they might just need cleaning up… maybe? just a thought

'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming

Post

Back to the top
Ok il give that ago i will try anything to get my car fixed its a nightmare, I have read on a couple of forums that a new battery can help you think there is any point doing that?

cheers for help

Post

Back to the top
no probs mate, i know how much of a pain in the rear cars can be!

i'd check to see what your battery is putting out (volts and amps) just after you've had it running - when it starts fine, and again 1st thing in the morning

make sure you check both since voltage is usually fine but its the amps that are needed to get the car going - the starter uses alot which if your battery is weak then it hasnt got enough for everything else initially

if there is a drop in amps then get the battery sorted since that is probably the likely cause, but if its fine then i'd try your return valve if the pressure drop overnight is more than is stated in the haynes manual

'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming

Post

Back to the top
sound like you have a rusty fuel filler neck and rust in the fuel tank.

check the fuel filter for dirt. :dontknow:

1983(Y) VW GOLF GTi

Banner

Post

Back to the top
Maybe but that dosen't explain my drop in pressure overnight the fuel filter is perfect i used to have a clipper and that was an issue with that so i checked the rivage when i first had it and there is more corrosion protection on this with it beind higher spec and newer than the clipper but i can always check again, its an easy job like i said il try anything!!
None return valve sounds like a good place to go, i might replace my cold start valva as well see if that works…… :banghead: …….who know!!?? oh and a battery - ???????? for a change.

Thanks all
Chris

Post

Back to the top
i am bein a proper 'tard today i tell ya!  :banghead:

ignore the whole earth thing, getting confused with something else  :doh:

**takes deep breath** - mmmm  :roll:

if its cutting out when you put your foot on the gas, then ans4r kindly pointed out it could be a blockage so check your filters or your fuel pumps not pulling its wait… i'd be tempted to wait for the pressure to drop (over night) and take the feed off you metering head and the other end at the pump/return valve and blast some air down there to clear it

i'm feeling much better now… its not that it leaks fuel as such, its just in cases the return valve fails which allows pressure to drop in excess… causing a cold start/running issue, cold start valve would also be an idea… its just ??? which i'm not sure about

'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming

Post

Back to the top
Ok sound il give that ago as well I got and action packed evening  :D I said '?????' because I have replaced almost all the k-jet system which has cost an arm and a leg new batteries aint cheap, getting a none return valve shouldn't be much same with cold start valve but it all adds up and im only a student lol  :oops: I just want to drive my car it's really driving me mad! Its sunny as well which make it even worse GRRR! oh well when it's sorted nothing should go wrong as every part is new lol
Thanks again for help

Post

Back to the top
hate to say it but it could be rustty in the system, i had exactly the same problem you have had and sorted out the rust and new filter etc and jobs a good'un…

its worth doing the filler neck anyway if there is a possibilty…Easy job, could save ALOT of money!


1993 Cabby Rivage

Post

Back to the top
Ok I will have to do that or just face defeat and pay someone to do it lol
Ok thanks all really appriciate your help this website rules
cheers C

Post

Back to the top
Sorry to hear the probs with your Cab,

Whats the condition of the fuel pipes in the engine bay ? the rubber hoses ? are they perished ? could be sucking in air ?
Check fuel lines,

You think its fuel ?
Could be distributor, connection braking down when it gets hot ?
Whats the distributor cap and rotor arm like ?

Post

Back to the top
Well the dizzy, rotor arm are new and so is the dizzy base, all the pipe have been replaced with a full samco kit so they are all sound, my fuel lines ……well they look ok but I think the next job I will do is flush out fuel system replace filler neck check and replace filter, if all that dosen't work i will replace fuel lines. If that dosen't work who knows!!!???
lol

Post

Back to the top
go on www.vwgolfmk1.co.uk and follow his guide to cleaning out the fuel tank snder, easy job underneath the rear bench if its a rivage i think. I did this, get a telescopic magnet and fish around for rust in the tank, or flush it all out when you remove the filler neck. All very easy. Replace the fuel filter...Thats what i did, and im running fine now...


1993 Cabby Rivage

Post

Back to the top
Brill thanks I will definatly give that ago! when yours was having a problem, did it start and then die under acclelaration what was the situation? I am a bit conserned that their are muliple problems with my car because after you keep cranking and cranking for about 20mins you can get it to run perfectly when its hot but who knows!!!..........lol you gotta love these golfs
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.