Mk1 golf Cabriolet Rivage - whats wrong!!!
Posted
#828793
(In Topic #98981)
Old Timer

Mk1 golf Cabriolet Rivage - whats wrong!!!
Thankful for any advice
Chris
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there's a valve just after the pump (return valve) and they can start playing up, dont cost much but that sounds like your problem mate
'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming
Posted
Old Timer

Ok il give that a try do you know where i can get one?
thanks for reply
Have you had this problem?
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Settled In


when he put his lights on the revs drop almost to a stall, and when the indicators were on he had something funky going on with his dash
was a bad earth, so he ran an earth lead from a rocker cover nut to the body (top mount stud) and presto, perfect
try running a jump lead from the neg on the battery to the alternator bracket then play with your lights n switches… or even the dash earth point which is behind/next to the fuse/relay box (i think) they might just need cleaning up… maybe? just a thought
'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming
Posted
Old Timer

cheers for help
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Settled In


i'd check to see what your battery is putting out (volts and amps) just after you've had it running - when it starts fine, and again 1st thing in the morning
make sure you check both since voltage is usually fine but its the amps that are needed to get the car going - the starter uses alot which if your battery is weak then it hasnt got enough for everything else initially
if there is a drop in amps then get the battery sorted since that is probably the likely cause, but if its fine then i'd try your return valve if the pressure drop overnight is more than is stated in the haynes manual
'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming
Posted

Local Hero



Posted
Old Timer

None return valve sounds like a good place to go, i might replace my cold start valva as well see if that works……

Thanks all
Chris
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ignore the whole earth thing, getting confused with something else :doh:
**takes deep breath** - mmmm :roll:
if its cutting out when you put your foot on the gas, then ans4r kindly pointed out it could be a blockage so check your filters or your fuel pumps not pulling its wait… i'd be tempted to wait for the pressure to drop (over night) and take the feed off you metering head and the other end at the pump/return valve and blast some air down there to clear it
i'm feeling much better now… its not that it leaks fuel as such, its just in cases the return valve fails which allows pressure to drop in excess… causing a cold start/running issue, cold start valve would also be an idea… its just ??? which i'm not sure about
'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming
Posted
Old Timer



Thanks again for help
Posted

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Posted
Old Timer

Ok thanks all really appriciate your help this website rules
cheers C
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Whats the condition of the fuel pipes in the engine bay ? the rubber hoses ? are they perished ? could be sucking in air ?
Check fuel lines,
You think its fuel ?
Could be distributor, connection braking down when it gets hot ?
Whats the distributor cap and rotor arm like ?
Posted
Old Timer

lol
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Posted
Old Timer

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