Golf MK1 83 Campaign GTI 1800 DX - Stalling and total loss of power - Help!!!

Hi All,



My Mk1 83 Campaign 1800 DX engine has ran perfectly for the last three years without any problems. (after changing the alternator,starter motor and bosch battery). The car would warm up at 1500 rpm for a few seconds and would idle at 1000 rpm perfectly.



I recently drove the car for 20 minutes with no problems. When coming to a junction I pressed the accelerator and car spluttered with my foot down and had a sudden loss of power, the car struggled uphill and managed to kangaroo and get me home.



My initial thoughts were fuel pump as I could hear it straining whilst running.



In the last two weeks, I have replaced a brand new fuel pump and dizzy,rotor arm,cap,spark plugs,coil, 5th injector and checked all the vacuum pipes which as seem ok. I have also tried replacing three injectors for spares I had in the garage. The engine is a rebuilt 1800 GTI DX block from the Engine Shop with less than 20K.



I have a polished inlet manifold and I can see fresh oil deposits sitting on top behind the injectors. Could the fault possibly be a leaking inlet manifold gasket?? The car feels like it sucking in air - as soon I press the accelerator pedal the car stalls. I really don’t want to mess with the mixture and it seemed to running correctly before and passed it emissions with no problems for the last three MOT’s.

I still have some vacuums issues.. I'm thinking of trying a smoke pellet to see if possible to see where leak is.  Have changed 2 damaged hoses. Mine cut out today I think is fuel tank breather as lots of pressure when remove cap after car stopped getting fuel. Turned out fuse also blew for pump. Did 100 miles or so before it stopped running. In 2 days since last fuel added.  So for me is fuel system first then continue back hose check.

Hi,

Thanks for the reply,

Does anyone else know how to test the inlet manifold to check & see if the gasket is leaking?

 

spray wd40/penwetrating oil/etc around various points while the engine is running, if idle changes then you have found a leak

Hi,

Quick update we carried out a compression check and all the cylinders seem good. I inspected the inlet manifold and the gasket seems okay, only replaced two years ago.

The fuel filter has also been replaced in the last twelve months.

The fresh spark plugs seem very black which would indicate to me that the car is running to rich.

The car's mixture was running perfectly before an Audi mechanic came round on Sunday night - he fiddled loads with the mixture screw whilst the car was cold - he then asked me to keep turning the key and to crank the engine with no throttle applied. The car did manage to start few seconds and then stalled.

Now the car won't start at all, any ideas on how I can get the car restarted and running right?

 When I turn the key for the mixture screw does this alter the pressure plate level up and down?

I noticed the pressure plate when I lifted it up and released it - it came down very slowly - is this normal?    

he messed with the mixture screw when the engine was cold…

oh well. now the mixture and idle are way off spec so its a case of trial and error them till you can get it close enough to fire. Its a pain in the rear but there you go!

the screw adjusts how high the fuel metering head piston sits in relation to the metering head flap position, there is no easy way to get a 'basic' position that I know of.  Main thing to be careful of is dont screw it too far as it will fall apart inside and its the devils own job to thread it back together without stripping the metering head down completely

its normal for the flap to be slow to come to rest, its going against fuel pressure inside the metering unit. main thing is its smooth in operation and doesnt bind at any point

Have you had a look inside the fuel tank to see if the fuel pick up is blocked with rust, there is an inspection cover underneath the back seats.
Not sure if you have a lift pump in the tank?
Check the fuel filler neck for any holes, take the cap off and shine a torch down it as they usually rust away at that end at the top.

Would a faulty warm up regulator or accumulator cause ruff running and cause the car to stall?

The fuel filler neck was replaced in 1992 and the pipe looks black, clean & free from rust inside.

Is the fuel filler neck breather pipe prone to splitting and  and likely to cause any erratic stalling?

My next on the do list was to open the inspection cover and look inside the tank. However my next door neighbour has complained to me about fuel vapour smells. I imagine if I go fishing in the tank whilst it's quarter full is likely cause a strong smell.   

yes it could do as its responsible for controlling the fuel mixture as the car warms up. only way to test that, the metering head, fuel pump etc is with a set of pressure gauges though so you can see the system, control and residual pressures.

Is there anyone in or near Northampton that can come to the rescue and has the fuel pressure gauge kit and could help me get her started?

The cars MOT is due in a few weeks and I'm desperate to see her back on the road.  

Hi,

Quick update, I had a look inside the fuel tank with a telescopic magnet and went fishing inside the tank. All seems clean and nothing major came off with the magnet. The tank is 1/2 full and I did add a bottle of fuel  injector additive. Does the tintop  have a removable mesh gauge? I tried to stick my hand in - but couldn't see anything I could grab and remove.

I also inspected the inside of the fuel filler neck and it appears to be clean and rust free.

Richard at Crazy Quiff's mentioned to try disconnecting the return fuel line & putting it in a measuring jug, crank the engine for 30 seconds & i should have a certain amount of fuel in the jug. I can't remember if he said 750cl or 75cl should be measured?Do fingers point to the WUR?

Just realised I didn't hook out the In Tank Fuel Reservoir Filter and give it a clean - could this be clogged below? Is that where the rust particles could go?

have a look in here, look inside the swirl pot, clean out the filter sat inside it if it has one, and look at the inlet on the fuel pump too see if that is clogged:
View topic: Fuel Tank cleaning *HowTo* clear that blockage - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Having a bad day!!  

I opened up the fuel inspection cover and tried to pull out the fuel filter from inside the tank using a pair of short needle nose pliers, In the process

I have now managed to drop my pliers into the tank. I have tried a magnet extendable rod to try and retrieve the pliers but am not having any luck.

I tried with a longer set of pliers and cannot seem to lift out the internal filter - any tips?

doh! looks liek there is a hole on the top, maybe make a hook up from a metal coathanger?

Id walkaway for couple hours have a spot of lunch.. come back and try again.. if it got in will come out. If possible jack car up at rear to bring pliers down towards access hole.

One of these are handy for grabbing things which have been dropped but I don't think it will lift the filter out but may grab the pliers if the handles are thin enough?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLEXIBLE-LONG-24-2Ft-REACH-CLAW-PICK-UP-TOOL-Curve-Bend-Slim-Narrow-GRABBER-/200968029973?hash=item2ecaa0c715:g:fzQAAOxyhTFSQzIP

Hi,

Today with help of a friend we managed to completely drain all the fuel from the tank & to pull out the pliers.

I discovered the in-tank fuel filter is completely missing - I can see the slot where it should go.

I used a magnet to try and pull out any traces of metal - but nothing really came out.  I used a metal coat hanger and tried to poke around the bottom - but all seems clean.

 The fuel lines,pump and front filter have all been replaced in the last 8 months. Without the in-tank filter would the front have clogged in less than 8 months & cause ruff running?

see what the inlet looks liek on the fuel pump. if its clear chances are you're ok, but if its got rust in there the fuel filter will probably want changing again

the in-tank filter is 431201511 or 431201511A. ETKA is hazy on the differences claiming the A part number is diesel only on some and the other is kjet, or the A is kjet on others, or A does both kjet and diesel on yet others so your guess is as good as mine

I think the blue 'A' is the right one though as on the 82 diagram it shows it for 'golf gti' the non-A white one is sjhown for 'scirocco & "J" golf. Though the cleaning guide above shows the white one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281868232251
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262266274137

Is anyone in the Northampton area that could help get the old girl started?