Engine Swap...

On my driveway: I have a 83 1.8 GTi and and a 93 Audi 80 2.0… Thinking of carrying out a cheeky engine swap, is this possible and simply just a case of swapping heads & blocks… Obviously gearbox, injection systems & most ancilaries will be incompatible but as for the main unit, anyone???

Cheers

depends on where the mounts are on the audi block as it sits the otherway round, also i think if it was possible it would be easier to use the head from the golf and keep the k-jet injection. but again you would have to check that the water ways and oil ways lined up. :?:

I think that's too late a model for the engine swap unfortunately. If I remember right, it's the 3a code engine that's used which was only fitted for a couple of years in the late 80's

If you had one of these 'bubble block' engines, you'd need a collar for the dizzy and a blanking plate for the front of the engine - both sold by TSR

Cheers,

Mark

cool, thanks for the info... not quite as simple as id expected..

If the engine code on the Audi engine is 3A the botom end will fit with your head on it. You will need the blanking plates for the now redundant holes in the block where the breather fitted and the ring for the distributior. The 3A is the same height as the DX so you will not have the problem with the exhaust. I have just put a 2E tall block in mine and had to swap the drive pinion on the distributor from the DX, for the one from the 2E which involves driving out the spring pin, easier said than done. The pin is 4mm from memory. The engine mounting at the belt end will bolt straight onto the 3A block.Do it.

m6m62 said

If you had one of these 'bubble block' engines, you'd need a collar for the dizzy and a blanking plate for the front of the engine - both sold by TSR

Cheers,

Mark

I have an Audi 80 block like this (from a '93 car, 2.0E with AAD engine code), and because the block is a few mm taller than the DX block you'll also need a "sandwich" spacer plate to go between the exhaust manifold and the down-pipe, other wise you'll be straining the exhaust system and it will be knocking on the floorpan - TSR supply these, with the other parts mentioned above (that you'll also need for this block).

Don't worry about originality, once you've driven the car with the 2l you won't go back. It may be better to find a distributor from a Mk2 as they had the O ring oil seal, you can then keep the original in one piece. I made the spacer for the exhaust on my tall block engine from a piece of 12mm X 4" copper bus bar. The good thing about this conversion as opposed to the 16V is that it is easy to revert to the DX if the cars appreciate a lot, you also get a LOT more low down torque.