Cold start splutter for about 20-30 seconds!

 yeh, ordered & received the Flange from Classic-VW as well  have to stick it on eBay i think & try to flog it… try & get my mulan back as for the part number 027121133A (came up trumps) i've managed to source a couple.. i can get 1 from the States for about $100!!! which i think i will do… works out about £65 - £70 inc post.. Don't wanna be faffing about cutting this & doing that you know… perfectionist sorry!  going to have a look at the screws to go into the cylinder block through the Flange as well & re-new those - My workplace is a distribution company that specialize in fixings & fastenings so i'll be able to source those no probs. Thanks for your help  

Got one on order form the US of A a company www.fcpeuro.com Genuine VW part…  on a UPS 3-5 day delivery… £68 inc delivery so not bad. Gutted about the availability but one's on the way  just need some good weather in the next week or so.. may have to book a day off if we get a few days dry… 

One genuine Flange received today (had to get it delivered to work ) absolute gem… box & flange a bit dusty but bursting with VW quality Forecast is pretty awful all weekend so work gonna be on hold…






 

Ahhh shiny ..looking good
Andy

Just an update as a few things have happened recently… I have opened a little tin of worms (not as bad as that but pretty cr4p findings) Started off by taking off the coolant flange, 1st bolt (left) fine, lower bolt no - head screwed off!!!!!! left the thread in the cylinder head!!!! Looking at the state of the flange its obvious a water change hasn't been done for a long time!!! just another thing with this beauty of a car. This car must have breathed a sigh of relief when i bought her & thought this is guy is gonna look after me & get me back to normal!! Anyway, prior to me taking the flange coolant off i gave her a flush… & as per the photo, you can see the colour of the water that came out! So other things have come to fruition, basically, of the other parts i have renewed/replaced (& taking it to 2 garages) i noticed that the Rotor arm in the dist. cap is shot! So since i have bought a new one & dist. cap. genuine Bosch. so along with a new Thermotime Switch, Temp. switch, 5th injector, hose & G13 Coolant i have a new Coolant Flange/seal to fit & connect!
As you can see from the pics the state of the old coolant flange! cream crackered isn't strong enough what i want to say or how i'm feeling about this issue!!! Looking at the inlet of the flange you have the inner part, the rubber seal & then the outer part - all contact the Cylinder Head, the inner bit is corroded to hell, almost to the rubber bit!!! so i think this has leaked into the lower bolt fitting of the coolant flange (front of engine too) & rusted it badly!! Looking at the receipts from a certain AP Engineering in Essex they, as part of a job, said they had 'sealed' the coolant flange! YES WITH SOME KIND OF RUBBER SEALER LIKE ON A WINDOW!!!!! i kid you not! so at the moment i have got a 6mm TAP, helicoil set & new 10x1 mm pitch bolts. I need to drill & re-thread this. I am so peeved with what has happened you won't believe it. When i have actually done this i am hoping with the new parts, as mentioned, it will start & run fine - with no cold start issues!!!
take a look at the pics - & if anyone hasn't done water change for a while or got no record i highly recommend it!!













 

Morning rubjonny mark1gls had a VERY good day yesterday! took advantage of the fine weather!
basically went to attack my car as per my previous 'update' above, Saturday morning, got my tools & stuff together & decided to go for it… got a mixture of liquid metal & hardener together & filled the damaged 'hole' from the shredded bolt head… thought it better to drill & fill to start from scratch if you like. Filled it & left it (recommended 5-10mins solidifying time in 20degree temperature - it was about 5 degrees Saturday morning!) So with this i tried to see if my drill & bit would fit - NO! Radiator cowling was in the way  my mindset wasn't good for this so i sprayed wd40 on the bolts & left it until Sunday.
So… cleaned  the wifes car & my daily & felt good, sun was shining so onwards & upwards! disconnected the rad, took it off no probs - had the room. The liquid metal mixture had gone off  so i connected the old flange cut-off to mark where drilling needed to be done, started with a 3mm drill-bit to get a start, took off the guide & proceeded to drill with a 6mm HSS drill bit, marked the depth on the bit with a bit of masking tape & got a good line. Got my tap wrench & 'TAP' - 6mm x 1, small amount of oil on the end, got a bite & 'tapped' away 1/4 to 1/2 turn then released/reversed (recommended on youtube etc) & continued to required depth! reversed & happy days got a good thread!!! cleaned out with cotton buds doused in wd40.
Put in a helicoil  got my new flange outlet & connected!!! firm fit SO HAPPY! new TTS, Water sensor, 316 metal blanking plug underneath & the 3 relevant coolant pipes, connected everything to torque, cleaned up rad cowling & put back on. Put full bottle of G13 in & remainder of water. Jumper cables off my daily & hey ho up she fired!!! Took her for a 4-5 mile spin & it felt good. Got back home, checked for leaks & she as fine!  I did notice the temp reading in the car was slightly above halfway so i'm not too sure what the normal reading should be. Will get her tyre pressure sorted as she's been stood still for about 3 months+  & new fuel too! Then hope weather's good & roads dry on the weekend & take her for a good run…

slightly over half is ok

the pump relay does the pump, wur and aav. if the fuel pump runs fine then relay is ok

not all relays will prime the pump on ignition, it makes no odds either way the main thing is it runs while cranking

pulling the relay would mean no fuel pump, and without fuel the engine wont fire.

yep

Just got this off Cabby-info - must have been driving it with the water sensor shot (with the Flange, TTS dodgy water) since i've had it!! As the needle was always left (low) yet sometimes the cooling fan would come on... it hasn't copied the Pic but my car was reading 'as per the pic' so another thing resolved   I love my car! 

his gauge displays water/coolant temperature.  If a problem is sensed by the warning system, the red light will flash.

 

The sender for this gauge is mounted in the upper radiator hose flange on the cylinder head.  

1990+: The warning light is also tied into a level sensor mounted to the coolant reservoir.

 

Normal Reading

The needle should be around or on the light under normal operating conditions.  In stop-and-go traffic, drive-thru lanes, etc., needle may climb higher (this is due to little air flow through the radiator).  Usual gauge operation: needle climbs to the right edge of the light, fan turns on, needle drops to left edge of light, repeat.  While cruising, the needle generally stays over/on the light.

 

 

What temperature corresponds to the needle reading?

Very good question!  It all depends on what thermo switch is installed in your radiator and which thermostat is installed.  The standard, OEM thermo switch is a 95-84° switch.  This means, for single- and two- speed fans, the radiator cooling fan will turn on at 95°C (203°F) and run until the coolant temperature in the radiator is down to 84°C (183°C).  So, if you have the standard thermo switch in the radiator, when the needle reaches its highest point on the gauge and the fan turns on, the needle is showing a coolant temperature of approximately 95°C (203°F); with the needle directly over the light, the coolant temperature is approximately 87°C (190°F ~ I say "approximate" because, as stated elsewhere, these gauges are not 100% accurate), which is the temperature when the standard-temp thermostat opens.

 

 

Needle Pegs to the Right and the Light Flashes

If the needle pegs to the right and the light flashes at start-up and remains this way, test the coolant temperature gauge sender as it may be faulty (disconnect the connector; if the light stops flashing and the needle drops, the sender is faulty).

 

 

Gauge Reads Low (Needle Stays to the Left)

If coolant gauge is reading low even after the engine is warmed up, it's indicating that the thermostat and/or the gauge sender is most likely faulty.  Test the gauge sender (CIS -- disconnect the connector and ground it; Digifant --disonnect the electrical connector and jump the yellow/red wire and brown wire terminals); if the needle moves upward when you turn the ignition key to battery-on position, the sender is faulty.  (Digifant: If needle doesn't move, jump the yellow/red wire terminal to ground; if needle moves upwards, your brown ground wire is no longer connected to its ground point and requires repairing).

Felt too long for me to get my Coolant Flange fitted due to problems as above (& weather being the main factor!!!) I took out the air filter as well, after starting it & taking it for a 2 minute run… used the 'air' cleaner too… gotta keep your hand close on the accelerator cable as when you spray this stuff in quick bursts the engine idles… after being stood for 3 months i cleaned a bit of dirt out of the air filter too… went for a 30 mile drive, needed to charge the battery too! MFA was reading silly figures… fine afterwards…
There are Hansa ignition leads currently on the car??? I've changed most things on the car, renewed, not heard of Hansa.. so got Bosch arriving next week…




 

look decent enough quality to me, if the car runs fine then they are doign their job

Morning, wondering about my Warm-up Regulator whether it's working or not… reading stuff on here, on the net with different views/advice… will a tune/CO check do anything to the start-up process if it's running too rich or not?
Took her for a spin last night… when i start & go to pull off straight from cold - it's flat, bur bur.. no acceleration, put my foot on the clutch, rev then it's ok… rev it again for a few seconds & away it goes… when cruising @ 60 now & again i would feel the smallest of judders, barely anything… uuurrrrgghhh!!!! so frustrating!! 

only way to check the WUR is to get a set of fuel pressure gauges on there, you can try replacing it though

yeah its basically the equivalent to a carb choke, adjusts the mixture as the engine warms up.  2 bolts and 2 fuel lines to change it, you will loose fuel so be sure to only do it on a stone cold engine with a rag over the fitting to catch any fuel mist.

no connection to the block itself, just those 2 fuel lines

its only a 5 min job to change it so worth a try

A word of warning……
When I removed mine one of the heads of the bolt sheared off as the bolt had rusted into the WUR, luckily I could undo the other one and turn the WUR around to screw it out of the engine but I had to remove the oil filter housing to do this.
I would give it a good soak with Plusgas or similar and go carefully.    

WD40 is not very good a freeing up seized/rusty bolts.

I use this stuff but as with any rusty bolt it could still snap.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/maintenance-fluids-and-greases/penetrating-fluids/?549774741&0&cc5_857

Had a knee op yesterday so a bit AWOL  did get my Bosch leads in the post today so i couldn't resist.. the sun is shining the weather is sweet - going into a bit of Bob Marley there  Managed to change the leads so i got the Bosch Dizzy cap, rotor arm & leads… felt good on starting, still a slight hesitation… but nothing much at all, all progression for the better.
Limited to what i can do for a week or so.. going to order a WUR seal, take it off, clean & put back on.. think there is mesh/gauze on the block so i will clean this too - being careful. Had my CV's done - which were brand new last year (garage did them for nothing of course) Got an oil leak - believe it's from the rocker cover gasket, i will get a rubber gasket & get it fitted within 2 weeks… just wonder if the engine loses pressure through a leaking gasket??? nonetheless, get it done & hope this resolves the common oil leak known with a cork gasket… things are looking good..