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1.8 gti cylinder head bolt torque settings?

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Putting the cylinder head back on my 1990 golf gti convertible.  The new head bolts didn't come with the specific torque settings.

Haynes manual says:

10mm bolts
stage 1 -  65Nm
stage 2 - 1/4 turn


12mm bolts

Stage 1 - 40Nm
stage 2 - 60Nm
stage 3 - 75Nm
stage 4 - 1/4 turn.

Measured the bolts and they appear to be 10mm andso it looks like only 2 stages.

Just double checking that I am doing this right?????????

I know to tighten them in the correct order!

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No instructions on the head gasket packaging?

1983 Golf GT 2.1 16V with throttles/1978 Golf LS 2.1 ABF with throttles/2008 Citi Storm 1.4i/2007 Hyundai Getz - my daily

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No, didn't come in a pack.  Febi ones apparently

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its the 12mm setting

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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I did the 10mm setting, 65Nm + 1/4 turn.

Pretty sure the bolts are 10mm, definitely smaller diameter than on my 2000 caddy sdi.

Should I be worried? can I still apply more torque to the bolts if needed?? 12mm got up to 75Nm + 1/4 turn

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I'm not sure exactly what the 10/12mm thing refers to, but the 1.8 lump you have is the same as in the mk2 and they only have 1 torque setting which is the 12mm one you listed there. what part number are the bolts you used?

if they are the correct 1.8 mk1/2 type bolts then its fine to crack loose and/or re-torque as they can be re-used. I would follow the procedure again redoing 1 at a time rather than undoing them all and starting again if that makes sense

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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The 10mm/12mm looks like it refers to the size of the bolts.  When I put a measure across the thread area, it measures 10mm.  I have recently changed the head on caddy as mentioned above and they are thicker and so 2 different sizes must be used?
I thought these were stretch bolts also, not for re-use.  Although if I torgued them more, would it just stretch them more?  Someone mentioned they may snap?

I am no expert and respect your opinion as you have given good council to me in the past :thumbs:

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theres only 1 type of bolt for 1.5-1.8 and that needs the 12mm setting, the 10mm procedure may be for 1.0-1.3 bolts? the diesel bolts are different again. either that or its for an older style of head bolt which has been superceeded, this is why i wanted to double check what bolts you bought:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g1gaskets.php

only the 16v and diesel bolts need to be replaced, the 8v ones can be reused. not that I would reuse original bolts, but since yours are new it should be ok. plus they havent been done up as tight as they should be even if they were stretch :)

looking again actually, the 12mm one doesnt look right either? the figures in my haynes, bentley and my VW manuals state 40nm, then 60nm, then either 1 stage of 180 degree or 2 stages of 90

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

theres only 1 type of bolt for 1.5-1.8 and that needs the 12mm setting, the 10mm procedure may be for 1.0-1.3 bolts? the diesel bolts are different again. either that or its for an older style of head bolt which has been superceeded, this is why i wanted to double check what bolts you bought:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g1gaskets.php

only the 16v and diesel bolts need to be replaced, the 8v ones can be reused. not that I would reuse original bolts, but since yours are new it should be ok. plus they havent been done up as tight as they should be even if they were stretch :)looking again actually, the 12mm one doesnt look right either? the figures in my haynes, bentley and my VW manuals state 40nm, then 60nm, then either 1 stage of 180 degree or 2 stages of 90
This sounds familiar, I'm pretty sure this is how I torqued the head on my 2.0 8V as well…

1983 Golf GT 2.1 16V with throttles/1978 Golf LS 2.1 ABF with throttles/2008 Citi Storm 1.4i/2007 Hyundai Getz - my daily

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Torker said

rubjonny said

theres only 1 type of bolt for 1.5-1.8 and that needs the 12mm setting, the 10mm procedure may be for 1.0-1.3 bolts? the diesel bolts are different again. either that or its for an older style of head bolt which has been superceeded, this is why i wanted to double check what bolts you bought:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g1gaskets.php

only the 16v and diesel bolts need to be replaced, the 8v ones can be reused. not that I would reuse original bolts, but since yours are new it should be ok. plus they havent been done up as tight as they should be even if they were stretch :)looking again actually, the 12mm one doesnt look right either? the figures in my haynes, bentley and my VW manuals state 40nm, then 60nm, then either 1 stage of 180 degree or 2 stages of 90
This sounds familiar, I'm pretty sure this is how I torqued the head on my 2.0 8V as well…

Those were the figures I was given by a local friendly garage when I did our 8v GTI on a mk2, he gets all his torque figures online, used new bolts as it was probably the first time the head had been off at 166k, 40, 60 then 2 x quarter turn was advice given

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yeah its used for most vdub 4 cylengines, mk2 and mk3 16v as well, smallblock engines even though I'm just not sure if there was an earlier headbolt and procedure on the MK1 hence the 2 figures in the MK1 haynes mentioned above?

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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anyone know which settings it is need to do mine this weekend mine's a 1983 1.8 dx gti.

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Doesn't the 10/12mm refer to the size of the spline bit used? May well be the same size as the thread though - I haven checked

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if you've bought new bolts like whats in my link above then you use the 40nm, 60nm, then either 1 stage of 180 degree or 2 stages of 90

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

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Just a quick resurrection of this thread and a bit of a warning (maybe?).

I am mating a DX head to an ADY block and I was following the torque specs from my old skool Brown Haynes manual for the mk1…had gone through stage 2 (60nm) and was working through stage 3 75nm. Got to bolt #4 and SNAP - Brand new and snapped in half!

I was bemused as I'm most definitely not that strong….but a a good googling does suggest that we should really only be cranking it through to 60nm  plus a nip…

It's a good job that I had a spare set of bolts kicking about!

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