Valve cover leak
Posted
#1676280
(In Topic #243681)
Old Timer
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Lemon Yellow Tin Top Restoration
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=your-mk1-golfs_2%2Flemon-yellow-tin-top&kfs79=30
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=your-mk1-golfs_2%2Flemon-yellow-tin-top&kfs79=30
Posted
Local Hero
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=helllllpppp%2F1980-glii
The rubber gasket needs to have non-shouldered studs, and yes you have to remove the old ones and install non-shouldered studs.
You can use a stud remover, or the dual locknut method
but you have to use a large washer between the head and the tool you use.
I have used Cork Gaskets most always. I have had one of mine a 92 with the rubber gasket, and my 93 with a cork.
CAVEATS.
You can use any shellac or sealant on the gasket body.
You can use Permatex Black Ultra RTV 2 drops on the Came over seal to the cork gasket one each side, as well as the same for the rubber gasket.
Key takeaways.
1. your Valve cover needs to be flat that is it can't rock on a flat surface if it does it is twisted.
2. Use the OIL divertor or Windage tray as mentioned in the above thread.
3. Tighten the nuts by hand in the zig-zag pattern, and do not exceed 87 IN/lbs on the nuts. If too tige it will leak out the rear, too loose it leaks everywhere.
It sounds as if your shop used elbow torque and either over tightened or didn't tighten enough. and is scared of messing with stud removal.
Cork Gaskets or Rubber will work if you follow the above.
Oh and get a Victor Reinz rubber gasket as it has a Steel core sandwithc between the rubber,
Victor Reinz number 71-31692-00
VW 037-103-483c
There are plenty of threads on this conversion on the vwVortex. Sound
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Posted
Old Timer
Lemon Yellow Tin Top Restoration
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=your-mk1-golfs_2%2Flemon-yellow-tin-top&kfs79=30
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=your-mk1-golfs_2%2Flemon-yellow-tin-top&kfs79=30
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