R/H/Side Direct Action Servo Conversion
Posted
Local Hero
Re: TIME OUT
R/H/Side Direct Action Servo Conversion
golfgod said
I can see im rufflin feathers so i will leave you to argue amongst each other and in the meantime think before you bullshit! ops:
If anything, its coming across as flamebait. You're a new member, only posted 5 posts, and this first post is a teaser and doesn't really contain any useful info. People around here share info and help each other out, not try to score points over one another. Fact is, with discussion allowed to occur, the truth will out - and right hand servo/MC is nothing new, its been done before (pedal box group buys, etc). So if you launch a new product, you need to take into account these, and set the price accordingly, etc.
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How i see it
Do what you like its your car your life! other than that get educated.
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Posted
Local Hero
Re: How i see it
golfgod said
Look i didnt intend it to go this way but i am arguementative when i know im right! and yeah im a new member but listen ive been driving and modding the mk1 since 89 and i aint no two bit fiddler and GIMMICKS mean nothin to me. Feast your beady little eyes on what im showing you coz its all your gona get for now and look at the brake pedal it is connected to the servo! this was my test bed the next version has no new panel/s and retains the isolator panel VERY USEFULL! and something else where has the acc pedal???? who thought about that then??? not many of you i bet, that alone is a drama to do right, and and i did not slate the standard set up i said adding additional hardware ie..ABS is a dangerous thing to do unless you have the fundimentals! you think im wrong ask a proper engineer you must know one surely??? im only out to help people and show them what can really be done not how to bodge your brakes!
Do what you like its your car your life! other than that get educated.
Do you have a degree in engineering then?
Posted
Old Timer
also how do you know your brakes are all matched? - ill be the first to hold my hands up and say I havent done the campatability calcs on my set up, but I know it works and I also know its proven as its copy of the G60 set up….so VW must have done the calcs, and yes my cars lighter but still it should all work. - if you like Ill get the forumla when im back at work and tell you exactly what you need, I am a type approval engineer for the VCA and brake compatability is part of whole vehicle type approval.
also ABS is a help, BUT only if you know what to do when it kicks in, and also it counts on good tyres and grip and if its not wired up right it might not work when you need it…. do you have the ability to read the ECU to know if all is well?
if think you will have upset a few folks on here as you have kinda come in here all guns blazing claiming a massive leap but then havent really said how and when other have pointed out its nothing really new you have had a go, :dontknow:
Daily - 05 plate B6 A4 Avant S Line, with 19s for the summer.. wifes car - Rare Seat Exeo ST Sport 170 Tech
Weekend - MK2 20vt monster - Plus a mk1 caddy I am fixing for my bro
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Good feel Bad feel
Posted
Local Hero
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Posted
Local Hero
golfgod said
And anyway this aint all about safety i think ive put a few noses out of joint here and some of you feel as though im threatening your long built reputations as gurus who know it all? wrong remember enthusiasts are just that and you dont know it all or you would be workin for wulfsburg or maybe a Q+A section in a mag this is a safety issue not i know more than you! all i can say is do what you do and when the kit ive produced is launched dont bother do it your way you know better after all!
I don't feel threatened? Does anyone else? When your kit is launched, the buying public will consider their options, including other brake mods as detailed above (and not swapping the servo to the RHS), a pedal box, and your option. I guess once its launched and we know a price vs potential benefit offered, people and their wallets will make their minds up. Seems an unusual way to go about things though, getting wound up on the owner's club forum of its primary market.
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The benifits
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Website Manager
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Local Hero
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when will your kit be available so i can buy it and loose my back yard bodge as you call it
Inaris silver series 1. APX 1.8T REVO software, hybrid O2J/O2S 6 speed, peloquin diff, cabrio drives, toyota pas, 7.5x16 5X100 compomotive mo flatspokes, G60 ABS, 305 brembos octy vrs rears, coilovers and arb's by H&R
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Braking leg
Posted
Old Timer
also on the braking there are many many diffent things that will effect how well it stops; the wieght, the tyres, the road surface, pad and discs, how well the rears are adjusted, brake fluid, even the temp of the discs and how new the pads are…. my old mini just ran some good road pads, with well adjusted rear drum brakes, and some very sticky yoko tyres and on trackdays I was out braking everything into the last chicane…buts thats because I had soo much grip I had to really stand on the pedal to snatch a brake.
and ABS will not really help you if your braking mid corner and its wet :wink: thats just poor driving by going too fast for the conditions or just bad luck you have to brake mid corner for some reason.
and you need a small amount of play in the system, you do not want the brakes to be coming on as soon as the pedals moved a mill otherwise there is too much of a risk of the pads not being allowed to come away from the discs and over heating.
I also think your names a bit too cock sure tbh, but thats my opinion… and one more thing given the right conditions and pads etc im sure my mk1 will out brake a RS4…. :wink:
Daily - 05 plate B6 A4 Avant S Line, with 19s for the summer.. wifes car - Rare Seat Exeo ST Sport 170 Tech
Weekend - MK2 20vt monster - Plus a mk1 caddy I am fixing for my bro
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Local Hero
golfgod said
Yes i agree a bigger footprint is an essential agent to braking efficiency! but you have to remember increase the wheel size add more weight to the rolling mass the braking efficiency is decreased!
Please go and look up "coefficient of friction" and let us know what the definition is….
Posted
Old Timer
paul_c said
Just received by PM:
golfgod said
Yes i agree a bigger footprint is an essential agent to braking efficiency! but you have to remember increase the wheel size add more weight to the rolling mass the braking efficiency is decreased!
Please go and look up "coefficient of friction" and let us know what the definition is….
in general yes a bigger wheel has more rotating mass and with the majority of the wieght bing on a larger radious there is more momenturm….but this is very general…it doesnt alow for the varying wieght of a wheel designs, or the fact that alloys tend to be lighter than steels so a 14" steel will still be about the same or poss heavier than my 15" alloy, plus there are differance in tyre wights too….. I still think hes not quite got his head round this… fair play to fitting ABS but nob off with implying we are all doing it wrong and his way is the best :mrgreen: :roll:
Daily - 05 plate B6 A4 Avant S Line, with 19s for the summer.. wifes car - Rare Seat Exeo ST Sport 170 Tech
Weekend - MK2 20vt monster - Plus a mk1 caddy I am fixing for my bro
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By the way nissan do a pwr rack that is very close to the mk1 change the tie rod ends for vw ones join the two halves of each uj joint, install a new alternator with the pump attached to its rear [no need for vw pump assemb] or if its a combo use the servo vac as well that way you allways got servo power even if engine dies!
skyline
primera etc.
so there you have it guys another piece of genius from the golfgod………..personally ive never in my life read such a half baked load of rubbish! the guy thinks an altenater with built in vac pump still provides vacumn if the engine driving it stops turning WHAT??? and think about it is it really easier to fit an altenater with built in p/s pump from say a transit, pajero etc to a golf engine and be messing around fabricating mounting brackets, tensioners, pullies and different belts rather than use a good old reliable power steering pump brackets, pullies and belts that will bolt on from another vag engine and hey golfgod a skyline rack is from a rwd car, its mounted under the sump to a crossmember not mounted to the bulkhead like the fwd bluebird rack supposedly used in the TSR conversion
i know its off topic but for anyone interested here is my toyota power steering conversion, it may be more helpful than that gem of a pm up there, i feel the need to post some usefull information on the subject to cancel out that drivel i had to read there, i cant wait to see pictures of his abs/servo install if thats his thinking behind power steering
http://vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?s=23c558b0c168bf3685c96a44f500f60a&showtopic=20511&pid=187809&st=0&#entry187809
there are many different ways of converting to pas, the info contained in the above link was the approach i took and it worked out very well for me
Inaris silver series 1. APX 1.8T REVO software, hybrid O2J/O2S 6 speed, peloquin diff, cabrio drives, toyota pas, 7.5x16 5X100 compomotive mo flatspokes, G60 ABS, 305 brembos octy vrs rears, coilovers and arb's by H&R
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