Think I need a new fusebox...
Posted
#673136
(In Topic #81137)
Old Timer
Think I need a new fusebox...
Fuel pump sometimes primes, sometimes doesn't when turning ignition on. When changing from main beam to dipped beam, fuel pump primes sometimes. When putting indicators on (when they are working) fuel pump might prime twice then stop - sometimes. No indicators but green light lights and stays on but is also dimly light when ignition on and indicators off (possible relay?) - sometimes! Hazards are ok. No spark from coil - sometimes! Got to be the fusebox right?
Is it a real pig to 'upgrade' to the later style (blade) fusebox and why is the early style one almost twice the cost of the later style one at GSF?!
Posted
Local Hero
Got to be the fusebox right?
Are you sure you have 100% been over all the earth points :dontknow: Earths are the best source of intermittant problems . Mind you so are wet and corroded fuze boards .
Why not drop the fuze board down and inspect it for corrosion , seems to me to be lots of minor things not one major one . Tackle each part in turn and see if it leads you to a common point , if you follow my drift
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Settled In
muttley racing ftmfw
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
Still have the dash indicator light semi lit when ignition on and permanently lit when putting indicator switch on but no flashing and no lit indicators. Hazards work as they should so that rules out bulbs and possibly wiring from the fusebox?
No spark at the coil still. Going to try a replacement coil and dizzy after the weekend.
Am pretty sure it has to be a wiring problem somewhere at the back of the fuse box but everything looks ok to me. Pretty sure the two problems are related too as both happened at the same time, cured themselves at the same time and then failed again at the same time (and haven't decided to cure themselves again!)
Anyone got any ideas? Looks like it's out with the multimeter and the haynes wiring diagram again. Great! Took me 3 hours to find a split wire for the dipped beam. God knows how long this will take!
Posted
Local Hero
Rosette LH side behind headlamp (LH lights, front washer)
Rosette RH side behind headlamp (RH lights)
Strap from alternator to engine block
Strap to rocker cover (82> models only?)
Earth wire from diagnostic terminal block to battery (>76 models only)
Earth cable from battery to body
Earth strap gearbox LH mount to body
Earth wire from steering rack bracket to body (for horn)
Rosette on back of instrument panel
Rosette on bulkhead near fuse box / steering column bracket
LH front door contact switch (self earthing)
RH front door contact switch (self earthing)
LH rear door contact switch (self earthing, 4-door models)
RH rear door contact switch (self earthing, 4-door models)
Earth wire to interior light bracket
Earth wires to body floor (under rear carpet near bench seat for fuel pump and fuel tank sender)
Earth wire near LH tailgate hinge behind headlining (rear wiper motor)
Earth wire near RH tailgate hinge behind headlining (heated rear window)
Earth wire to rear tailgate slam panel LH side (LH rear lights, number plate lights)
Earth wire to rear tailgate slam panel RH side (RH rear lights, rear washer)
Cheers
1981 1600 GTI (coming to a road near you soon…)
1983 1100 C
1983 1100 C
Posted
Local Hero
woZa said
Hazards work as they should so that rules out bulbs and possibly wiring from the fusebox?
Your problem might be the switch itself.
While dismantling my dashboard I accidentally opened up the hazard switch, and bits went everywhere. I put it back, but minus 2 little springs (which I found later) - I had exactly the same symptoms as you, although my hazards didn't work either.
The springs keep the 2 contacts in the switch in contact with the back of the switch assembly, and help make a good circuit when the switch is off or on. You may be missing one or maybe even both of these… Once I'd reassembled the switch properly, the dim green light disappeared, and everything worked as normal.
Worth a look anyway, and much easier than that bloody Haynes manual malarkey 8O
Posted
Old Timer
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Settled In
i live to dub....
Posted
Local Hero
tupac2makaveli71 said
easy way to check if its the switch is to dissconnect it, if the light for indicators is still on you can rule that out!
This caught me out actually - if you disconnect the switch then nothing will work at all (i.e. no indicators / dash lights / etc)…
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Settled In
i live to dub....
Posted
Old Timer
What could be causing the low voltage at the coil and why when feeding the coil 12v direct does the indicator dash lamp go out??? :dontknow: I' getting very confused now!
Posted
Local Hero
Your problem could be earth related, as it's hard to see what else it could be if you've already replaced the coil, the wiring, the fusebox, and cleaned the fuses. Do you have a constant 0v on the negative side of the coil?
Posted
Old Timer
mcscrew said
Do you have a constant 0v on the negative side of the coil?
No… getting the same as on the positive side of the coil, 1.2v (or 12v when giving it a feed from the battery). Have replaced the wires to the coil from the fusebox, still no change. The only difference after all the rewiring is that the dim dash indicator light doesn't go out when feeding the coil 12v direct from the battery and the alternator light stays lit now when the ignition is on.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Local Hero
What voltage do you get if you remove all the wiring from the coil, put 12v direct from the battery to the positive side, and the voltmeter between the negative side and the negative battery terminal? It should be 0v, as no current should flow through the coil when it's disconnected from the engine.
If you get 12v on the negative side too, then the coil is shot, and if you get 0v on the negative side, then the wiring is incorrect (I think).
To test this, measure the voltage between the negative wire for the coil, and the negative terminal for the battery. You should get a constant 0v - if so it's the supply wiring which is faulty, and if not it's the earth wiring which is wrong.
HTH
Rich
Posted
Old Timer
mcscrew said
Hmmm! That definitely doesn't sound good.
What voltage do you get if you remove all the wiring from the coil, put 12v direct from the battery to the positive side, and the voltmeter between the negative side and the negative battery terminal? It should be 0v, as no current should flow through the coil when it's disconnected from the engine.
If you get 12v on the negative side too, then the coil is shot, and if you get 0v on the negative side, then the wiring is incorrect (I think).
Cheers for the help Rich. Are you sure that there should be 0v on the low tension side? It's just that all 3 of the coils (2 old & 1 new) show 12v when doing the above but I find it hard to beleive that all 3 have gone in the same way…? The resitance is within limits on all 3 of them on both the LT & HT. I'm more concerned that the wires supplying the coil are giving only 3v or 4v. One of them should be 12v surely? Both wires come directly from the fusebox (which is new) and are new wires too…
Posted
Local Hero
If they all show 12v on both sides under those test conditions then I reckon you're right - all the coils are working correctly, and you should be more concerned with the voltage supply. Like you say, one side of the coil (at least) should be 12v.
At this point I'm as confused as you are - new wires and a new fusebox doesn't leave much room for error anywhere :? Unless you get 12v at the fusebox, and 4ish at the coil?
Beyond this I'm stumped I'm afraid…
Rich
Posted
Settling In
1981 1600 GTI
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