Sally Cinnamon

I believe I'm correct in saying that this sunroof isn't OEM, but quite common anyway?

Does anyone that has one have any issues with it? Would be good to know before I put it back in! Thanks


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Looks like your cracking on with her then mate.

I'd stick with the Silver but only 'cos I couldn't think of another colour!

Looking good so far.  

Ian

Thanks Ian! I think I agree with you re: the silver…

Bit more tidying up this weekend then will start taking the engine out


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Can anyone recommend a good engine stand? Pics would be great. Thanks!


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I've now decided to get the entire car stripped down and sandblasted. There are a couple of panels m(so far) I know I want to then replace, before re-sealing, prime and paint. It'll certainly put a dent in my timeline / budget but ill sleep better at night knowing that ive done as much as I can to prevent the dreaded work re-appearing.

Has anyone used a (good or bad) sand-blasting company in or around Surrey?

I have one recommendation (and quote, ~£750 if anyone is thinking of doing similar), a company called MJK blasting. Would be great to have some other input for comparison.

A company based in Tadley, Hampshire do sand blasting etc.
Can't remember the name, but the work on my bits and pieces for the MK1 Cab was superb and the price very reasonable.
Ã,£30 cash for cam cover, rocker cover, brake servo and a few brackets.

I remembered… Tadley Engineering.
No idea if they will do an entire shell but hey worth a call for price comparison, maybe.



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I'd think very carefully about having the entire shell blasted.

VW used a lot of seam sealer, underbody sealer and panel sealers that are no longer available. Remember they've lasted a long time so far and are still working for the most part. I understand the thought process but unless it goes from a blaster straight to a very dry body shop for all the work to the body and then is baked before any sealer is applied, you will trap moisture in the metal. This WILL cause rust. It starts on the inside and works it's way out in a lot of cases. That's why re-sprays never last as long as factory paint.

If you intend to spend many thousands on a concourse restoration with brand new parts and then keep it in a caccoon in an air conditioned garage, then crack on. If you intend to use the car at all in the real world then I'd personally think twice.

I understand that it's nice to see what's going on and all that. but the amount of work to re-seal every joint, every seam, every taped hole and every millimetre of metal will need to be checked, every cavity re-filled and this will all need doing multiple times.

Having stripped a shell to bare metal and clear coated it I can see the rust on the panels coming back! This is due to moisture that has been sucked into the metal.

Obviously I don't know your plans but I think the only way to go when blasting is to be very careful after the blasting to keep the shell in a controlled atmosphere, if you're planning to do it at home yourself I'd be very, very careful!

That said, I believe wiping down the surface with turps is a good way to seal the metal until you want to work on that section. It keeps the moisture out by 'sealing' it lightly. But don't touch it with bare skin as the oils in your skin cause rust to start forming.

Have a chat with some blasters and see if they seal it after blasting, I beleive some will shoot it with a zinc anti rust, sealing, weld through primer as an extra.

Good luck  

Ian

Hi Ian, thanks for the advice, appreciated! I should've clarified that the above quote includes for zinc phosphate etch priming after blast. I will though double check before proceeding as certainly don't want to trap any moisture, that would defeat the whole purpose of spending the extra £££!


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Sweet! That sounds like a bit of a plan then  

For the sake of all that's holy, make sure you bag and label every single little thing and take loads of pictures of all the stuff that comes off it!!

I bagged everything and labelled the bags (ended up with a filing cabinet full of bags!) but I thought 'i don't need to take photo's of that, I'll remember it!" Nope I really can't! Plus I have a bag laballed 'Engine bay - grommets, clips and stuff" - I know have no idea where any of it came from!

Still the car works so it's probably not important!  

Ian

We are thinking of getting a shell stripped, but the customer only wants the main body done not the floor so to save the vw stonechip.


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The OCD is strong in this one, I have labelled bags everywhere

Interesting point re: the stonechip, I assumed that there was a modern version of this that could be reapplied post blast? In my simple mind if I do get it blasted it makes sense to do the whole shell…


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There are plenty of new products, i think the basic thinking is it has done this well for this long why remove it?
But u-pol raptor would be my choice to re apply


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I used Raptor on mine, got to be careful with the prep or it like to fall off.

Seems quite hard wearing though.

Ian

thanks for the advice guys, always appreciated / needed