K-Jet Help Please!
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Water causes the pressure to drop and then the injectors do not open, hence it stopping.
Get your hand up around the top of the filler neck and feel for corrosion.
Have the back seat out and undo the tank inspection/level sender cover. Get a magnet on a string in there and see what you pick up.
When my neck went I had about 2 litres of water in the tank.
Could also be electrical, but the starting ok again after 20 mins rules that out for me.
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lhasadreams said
It will be water in the fuel, getting in through a rotten filler neck. The clue is that after 20 minutes you can restart her. Water/fuel mixture will drain back to the tank.
Water causes the pressure to drop and then the injectors do not open, hence it stopping.
Get your hand up around the top of the filler neck and feel for corrosion.
Have the back seat out and undo the tank inspection/level sender cover. Get a magnet on a string in there and see what you pick up.
When my neck went I had about 2 litres of water in the tank.
Could also be electrical, but the starting ok again after 20 mins rules that out for me.
After getting the back seat out I was able to hear the pump in the tank working, but only when it was running, shouldn't it work with the ignition on?
After taking the petrol cap off and moving the rubber seal I was able to see there is signs of rust around it. After I took the seat out and took the cap off I saw the fuel gauge sender but also 2 hoses aswell, do I have to take those off to get into the tank as im not sure at all? Have you got facebook or an email I can send you the pictures? Thanks for the help
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http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=postingPictures
Later cabbys had two pumps, the lift pump in the top of the tank and the main pump underneath the rear of the car. Both pumps only run when the engine is cranking or running. Some kjet relays cause the main pump to run for a short time when the ignition is turned on - it does not matter either way.
The reason VW did this was to consolidate to a single fuel tank design for both injection and carb models.
I think you have to remove those top two pipes to be able to twist the top plate to lift out the lift pump and fuel level sender. Be careful as there is a small filter that is only pushed on to the bottom of the lift pump.
It may be the lift pump that is failing, I have seen them run off the car but then fail under load when pumping fuel. Check the injection relay on the fuse box for signs of getting hot, failing pump(s) cause a much larger current draw, the relay gets very hot and in worst cases melts the solder and corrodes the relay plate contacts.
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When you remove the two pipes in the other picture you will need 2 new fuel hose jubilee clips as you will have to destroy those clips in the picture to get them off. Just make sure the new clips are for fuel hose as they do differ from normal jubilee clips.
take the fuel cap off before removing the hoses and have a cloth ready as petrol will come out when the hoses are removed.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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Apologies if you've mentioned before in the thread but what sort of condition is your filler neck in?
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It also means that water will of entered the system along with the crud that you have observed.
The problem with water is that it will cause iron oxide or rust inside your metering head and anywhere else it comes in to contact with steel in the system.
You need to do the following:-
(1) Replace the filler neck with a brand new one.
(2) Drop the fuel tank and give it a really good clean out - some have have success with syphons and magnets on strings, but there is no replacement really for getting it upside down and swilled out.
(3) Replace the filter on the end of the lift pump.
(4) Disconnect the fuel return pipe at the metering head and run the pump(s) to clean the lines of any crud - catch the fuel in a container.
(5) Take the plunger out of the center of the metering head and inspect for rust - I would also undo each of the lines on the top of the metering head and look for crud or rust. You will need new copper washers to refit
(6) Pull the injectors from the head and run an injection test for both spray pattern and volume of delivery as per the Haynes manual.
(7) Run a pump volume delivery test as per Haynes.
(8) Run both control (warm and hot) and system pressure tests.
Basically you are trying to ensure that all crud/water/rust has been eliminated from the system and then check that fuel delivery rates and system/control pressures are good.
Rust in the injectors or metering head usually means they will have to be replaced - I fought with mine for a while but in the end had to get another one to get it running properly again.
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Safely say I have most items for, as rubjonny says, a 1985 on Golf.
2 tintops.
3 cabbies, 1 with G60 power, just for fun.
Volvo T5, just for fun.
3.1Ltr V6 Dutton Leggera, just for fun.
Renault 5 GT Turbo, just a money pit!
Several boring cars, just no fun!
3 cabbies, 1 with G60 power, just for fun.
Volvo T5, just for fun.
3.1Ltr V6 Dutton Leggera, just for fun.
Renault 5 GT Turbo, just a money pit!
Several boring cars, just no fun!
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lhasadreams said
That confirms it, you are suffering from the number one Achilles heal of the Mk1 Golf - a rusty filler neck.
It also means that water will of entered the system along with the crud that you have observed.
The problem with water is that it will cause iron oxide or rust inside your metering head and anywhere else it comes in to contact with steel in the system.
You need to do the following:-
(1) Replace the filler neck with a brand new one.
(2) Drop the fuel tank and give it a really good clean out - some have have success with syphons and magnets on strings, but there is no replacement really for getting it upside down and swilled out.
(3) Replace the filter on the end of the lift pump.
(4) Disconnect the fuel return pipe at the metering head and run the pump(s) to clean the lines of any crud - catch the fuel in a container.
(5) Take the plunger out of the center of the metering head and inspect for rust - I would also undo each of the lines on the top of the metering head and look for crud or rust. You will need new copper washers to refit
(6) Pull the injectors from the head and run an injection test for both spray pattern and volume of delivery as per the Haynes manual.
(7) Run a pump volume delivery test as per Haynes.
(8) Run both control (warm and hot) and system pressure tests.
Basically you are trying to ensure that all crud/water/rust has been eliminated from the system and then check that fuel delivery rates and system/control pressures are good.
Rust in the injectors or metering head usually means they will have to be replaced - I fought with mine for a while but in the end had to get another one to get it running properly again.
Oh dear that seems a hell of a lot of work I don't think im capable of it really, well im out of my depth on all the volume tests etc, Im not sure what to say really, but thank you ever so much for helping me identify the problem, thanks mate
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PeteB said
Caddylove, you live pretty close to me, if you ever need to borrow/test anything for your GTi pm me and I'll give you my address and phone number.
Safely say I have most items for, as rubjonny says, a 1985 on Golf.
That's ever so kind of you mate, im in Parson Drove nr Wisbech if you know where that is?
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(1) Replace the filler neck.
(2) Get as much crud out of the tank as possible using a magnet and syphon. You will have water in there so try and get it out.
(3) Replace the lift pump filter and the fuel filter in the engine bay - why the filter is disconnected you could manually run the pump to empty the tank. My filter had a lot of water in it.
(4) Fill her up and see how she goes.
Good luck getting her sorted.
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Local Hero
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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