Newbie in the market to buy - advice needed please
Posted
Local Hero
Newbie in the market to buy - advice needed please
Mark 1 GTI convertible wanted - where to start
That’s why I wrote how to check the roof components. And how they relate.
A rear window frame is around £300 alone.
Be sure to check those and ask if they will be replaced?
No point putting a new roof over old stuff like a dirty uncleanable ripped headliner.
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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
Posted
Local Hero
Do cars of similar condition (I imagine a lot will be similar, the roof and gearbox problems are commonplace and need a bit of money spent to resolve) really actually change hands for £4000 or is it nearer £2000-2500?
Posted
Settled In
Off to see Andrew’s tomorrow
does anyone know much about this one?
Posted
Settled In
went to see Andrews GTI Cab' today.
It was great to meet him and see his car for sale.
Body was very solid, less the fuel filler neck - rusty hole there which was immediatly agreed to fix.
It was going great but the drive was dissapointing.
I appreciate I am used to new cars and I am still re-familising myself with these old cars, but the steering in particularly was so stiff! This is compared to the Cabby I drove on Friday.
Question: What can be done to soften the steering? Power steering conversion-options at all?
There were a number of niggly bits that I wont share for now but i must say the performace was lacking too. The Cabby again performed better.
The GTI was due a good service and had be stationary for a long time.
Question: I can imagine there are endless options for engine upgrades. What are the most basic/simple upgrades I could consider to improve performance on such a car.
Finally, Andy was great. Super honest and helpful. Such a shame the drive was a little dissapointing.
Posted
Local Hero
Brakes have a tendency of the rears not auto-adjusting then the travel goes high, there's a lot of Mk1s with brake upgrade (bigger servo reduces force, 22mm MC reduces pedal travel, almost always done together).
Posted
Local Hero
If you can get a Gti over a carb car as they are quicker and more economical than carb cars.
They do all have heavy steering when parking but when moving above 20mph you should be able to turn the steering wheel with just your thumb and finger.
Power steering ruins the feel of these cars as you have have no feed back from what the wheels are doing, there is a couple of kits on the market but they are expensive and rather crude.
If you really want power steering and better brakes etc buy a Mk2 Golf Gti as that had both.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
I've just gone from 15x7's with a 185/45 tyre and steering weighed a tonne
Fitted 15x8's 195/45 tyre and it feels really light all of a sudden and if anything should be the opposite
I think a lot of the time it comes down to your own subconscious mood and feelings
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Local Hero
Newbie in the market to buy - advice needed please
paul_c said
OK no worries I'm clearly out of the loop when it comes to pricing! Did the club ever sort itself out with offering official valuations?
Do cars of similar condition (I imagine a lot will be similar, the roof and gearbox problems are commonplace and need a bit of money spent to resolve) really actually change hands for £4000 or is it nearer £2000-2500?
Utter Madness Paul..
I’m seeing lots of these cars with new paint. New wheels but the headliner, interliner padding rear window frame and hood totally gone.
They wanted 5.5k because that’s what the car owed them.
The maker isn’t strong enough to sustain that.
Especially when they resprayed the car they only masked around the hood and not undone it at the rear cable channel to address the rust issues under there. Out of sight out of mind I guess.
But it’s an issue to a purchaser.
As they’ll need to fork out for new top assembly and do the paint and repairs that were missed before.
So 5.5k plus another 2k for full top refurb and paint that’s 7.5k
Never gonna get that on the open market for a standard cabby.
The only cabs that are commanding that sort of money are Rivage’s and Sportline models.
Main problem is folks think these are worth more than they actually are.
But if folks keep paying silly money without researching fully then prices will rise.
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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
Posted
Local Hero
Newbie in the market to buy - advice needed please
Looked at it went over the roof. Explained what he needed to make the car right.
Headliner was filthy, torn and hanging. Opened roof halfway lifted the roof up. Pad was worn. Cap sheets gone. Base cloth ripped.
Bits of stuffing on the Parcel shelf. Looked at rear window frame could see rust bubbling under the seal.
Stains on parcel shelf.
Popped the seal up ran my finger under and around the frame rust falling out all round.
So minimum is rear window frame and new roof.
However the dilemma is all the fixings to the headliner are under the interliner padding which are under the roof.
So the lot needs doing whilst the roof is off. Or you it’s live with it.
I’m sure I saw a tear and when he explained the state of the roof etcetera he was told its cheap only couple hundred quid to put right.
He bought that car on that understanding.
He paid 2.9k for the car after haggling. But the costs of doing the car proper just to keep the water out and the headliner off his head when driving means that car will be way over market value too.
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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
Posted
Local Hero
So there's something else, the charm of the oldness, or the rarity, or a perceived value, which is driving prices. But remember this is very much a "hope" value not a tangible thing.
I'd be interested in the actual values of cars bought and sold, not just some of these sky-high inflated prices. So, buyers, are you buying at £4k+ these days???
Posted
Local Hero
I sold the rolling shell for 5k.
I've just paid around 5k for a corrado tho, so I'm clearly a bit shot in the head.
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Settled In
paul_c said
What tyres did it have? Unassisted steering is heavy, but with proper tyre pressures, not-too-daft tyre size, and the caster/camber/tracking in spec (caster is not adjustable though I think)? its certainly manageable although noticeable.
Brakes have a tendency of the rears not auto-adjusting then the travel goes high, there's a lot of Mk1s with brake upgrade (bigger servo reduces force, 22mm MC reduces pedal travel, almost always done together).
PIC OF TYRES AND WHEELS ATTACHED
Posted
Old Timer
But I do think I was lucky as I had idea what a "black edition" was or how rare they are.
The same value of the market argument can be turned to pretty much all vehicles though
Most cars I wanted when I first passed my test (2003) I could buy easily but couldn't ever insure them and now the prices are through the roof.
Renault 5 turbo, Astra GTE, Starlet Turbo, Clio 16v.
None of them are actually worth the prices that are asked of them and thats before we even think about the Mk1/2 escort market
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settled In
I’m seeing lots of these cars with new paint. New wheels but the headliner, interliner padding rear window frame and hood totally gone.
They wanted 5.5k because that’s what the car owed them.
The maker isn’t strong enough to sustain that.
Especially when they resprayed the car they only masked around the hood and not undone it at the rear cable channel to address the rust issues under there. Out of sight out of mind I guess.
But it’s an issue to a purchaser.
As they’ll need to fork out for new top assembly and do the paint and repairs that were missed before.
So 5.5k plus another 2k for full top refurb and paint that’s 7.5k
Never gonna get that on the open market for a standard cabby.
The only cabs that are commanding that sort of money are Rivage’s and Sportline models.
Main problem is folks think these are worth more than they actually are.
But if folks keep paying silly money without researching fully then prices will rise.
SUPER HELPFUL COMMENTS HERE ON THE STATE OF THE MARKET
IT FEELS LIKE THE RIGHT TIME TO BUY, JUST IN THE SHORT TIME IVE BEEN EXPLORING
OFF TO SEE A BLACK SPORTLINE CAB ON WEDNESDAY
PICS AND FEEDBACK TO FOLLOW,
Posted
Local Hero
Regarding prices, I would personally go for a 2.5k car rather than a 4.5k car, and accept there might be 2k of work to properly bring it up to a fault-free condition. At least that way, you have held some money back for problems which you'll only discover with time, got bodged/disguised, or only later reveal themselves. And also be prepared to do a lot of the work yourself, if you're relying on a garage all the time and paying their labour it will soon stack up and be uneconomical.
If the car's hood needs doing, so be it - worth getting it done properly, and adjust the price as relevant. Obviously unless you can store it indoors, the sooner the better for a hood too - its the kinda thing you'd want to do now, rather than after winter.
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Local Hero
Newbie in the market to buy - advice needed please
paul_c said
TBH its a bit of a nightmare. The Mk1 Golf is now sufficiently old compared to modern cars that there's different technology (like, carburettor, mechanical K-Jet FI, drum brakes) that the average garage has lost the knowledge (and/or specialist tools) to deal with, so you're up against it if/when repairs are due. At least this club is still going, and has knowledgeable members etc.
Regarding prices, I would personally go for a 2.5k car rather than a 4.5k car, and accept there might be 2k of work to properly bring it up to a fault-free condition. At least that way, you have held some money back for problems which you'll only discover with time, got bodged/disguised, or only later reveal themselves. And also be prepared to do a lot of the work yourself, if you're relying on a garage all the time and paying their labour it will soon stack up and be uneconomical.
If the car's hood needs doing, so be it - worth getting it done properly, and adjust the price as relevant. Obviously unless you can store it indoors, the sooner the better for a hood too - its the kinda thing you'd want to do now, rather than after winter.
People buy a cab spring summer time. Then autumn winter they realise the roof leaks.
Then they ask price to do properly.
They cover the car wait till spring summer then punt it on.
I’ve seen one car 3 times over the years. Each previous owner giving my details to the new owners.
It’s endemic mentality that they don’t want to spend the money.
I have some fantastic customers who’d rather lose their kidney than sell the car. Some owners I’ve done work for had the car from new, others 25 years. Some new buyers just love the car and don’t mind how much it costs to do the work.
Others buy these cars with the intention of buying to tart up and sell. Not researching the costs.
A bloke bought his car over for inspection, he knew it leaked, dirty towels over seats, it absolutely stunk fusty, the carpets were damp, the seats wet. I explained what needed doing and the costs.
After all I explained that the seat frames will rust, damp in the fuse box causing corrosion. Plus the health issues.
His response was. Well I’ve seen these BBS split rim wheels and they’re over a grand…..
I said you got kids?
Yes he replied
I said would you make your kid sleep with a bowl on the end of their bed to catch water as came in through the roof on your house, because you fancied a new living room carpet, not that there’s anything wrong with said carpet?
He just looked perplexed and said I was stupid!
He put the roof up and before he he latched the J hooks to shut it, he pulled 2 yogurt pots out of the glove box. These had string round them and coming off them he hung them over the j hooks.
These I was told were to catch drips as the water came in.
So I noticed the pots at the beginning of the inspection as he took em off and stowed em away.
Priorities lol.
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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
Posted
Settled In
this time of year cabbies are coming on the market as people dont want to pay to have them put back in storage/find homes for them or simply just had the fun in the sun!
I would look around till the right one comes up and IMO 5k tops will get you a very decent one!
I paid 3750, yes there were/are a few mechanical and cosmetic things to do but no where near 4ks worth! everyone who sees her is gobsmacked how tidy she is, internally, externally and most importantly, underneath!
good luck tho! and post pics soon!
Posted
Old Timer
I encountered interiors that looked like CSI crime scenes, cheap hookers bed sheets, or Edward Scissorhands hand towel.
Roofs and headliners which couldn't hold out a heavy dew, were bowed like a dogs back leg, with rear window frames as rotten as an old pear.
Engines that smoked like a kipper shed, had dipsticks that required the leverage of one foot on the slam panel to pull out of black grease, rattled like two skeletons humping in a biscuit tin, and had a full service history with the last 40k miles lapsed.
Bodywork? Bodywork I have seen included the front chassis leg still bearing burnt paint ash and BIG hammer marks, panels which had paint colour chart range matches, floors welded by a blind asphalter, bulkhead repairs with a stick welder which had blown great holes around the repair, and a sill with a hole I could get 4 fingers in (make your own jokes here) with a new MOT
Don't get me on mileage haircuts!
Every time I went to look at a car it usually involved many miles, a day travelling out and back, food, fuel, disappointment, and up to £100 lighter on a day visiting some of the crapholes of G.B.
So, when I saw a decent car with a documented service history, 71k miles, new roof, wheels, tyres, good body work, mint interior, fancy alarm, fancy radio (since removed for single slot CD), 6 months warranty and reasonably local, 45miles, I just admitted defeat and bought it, this would actually save me money on all the future disappointments (at least that's what I tell myself)
And no, I'm not putting on how much it cost in case my wife found out, I'm no good at sleeping with one eye open and wearing a cricket box! (but those with Googlefu would probably find out easy enough.)
Last edit: by TBigJohn
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