Golf mk1 1.1 engine problems (SOLVED)

I've been having a few problems with my little 1.1 engine.

At first all it was was a small hickup, pressing in the clutch and a little blip on the acceleration pedal and everything was good.
As of lately things kept getting worse and worse. We've already chance a few things. (Fuel filter, rotor arm, distributor cap, new earth cable to the carb, cleaned the carburator, checked the solenoid at the carb.. we'll also be renewing the contact points but they haven't arrived yet.)

Strangest thing of it all, sometimes we don't have any problem at all, drive some more and the engine starts bogging down.

Anyone that know what it could be?
Any help would be appreciated.

video:
- YouTube

I am stabbing in the dark here as it's hard to tell what the engine is doing from the video but here's what I would look at!

Over fueling, as it's ticking over it could be needle valve causing float chamber to over spill and flood the engine.

Fuel starvation or a vacuum leak.

Points/condenser.

Coil breaking down (I'm not convinced it would be this)

Short to earth on the low tension ignition, for example the wire from the coil to the distributor chaffed or melted against the engine.

Does it do it when driving or just ticking over? Does it start easily when you try to restart?

Good luck.

Matt.

Saulty said

I am stabbing in the dark here as it's hard to tell what the engine is doing from the video but here's what I would look at!

Over fueling, as it's ticking over it could be needle valve causing float chamber to over spill and flood the engine.

Fuel starvation or a vacuum leak.

Points/condenser.

Coil breaking down (I'm not convinced it would be this)

Short to earth on the low tension ignition, for example the wire from the coil to the distributor chaffed or melted against the engine.

Does it do it when driving or just ticking over? Does it start easily when you try to restart?

Good luck.

Matt.

Thanks for the comment

Checked all the vacuum lines, there was one line that was a little loose, I shortend this one a little bit so it fit tight.

Fuel lines were replaced when we did our restoration, when looking through the fuel filter there is no shortage of fuel

Point and condenser were replaced no too long ago

We replaced the coil with another one and still had the problem

Wires seem to be all good, I measured them with my multi meter

Both when driving and neutral, engine starts very easy

I would still check the needle valve in the carb. The fuel pump needs to deliver more fuel than the engine can use even when flat out and if the needle valve is dirty or worn it could be letting excess fuel over flow through the breather in the float chamber and flood the engine. Have you removed the air filter cover and see if fuel is over flowing straight into the venturi? It's worth checking this. I had similar issues with my MK1 series 1 1.1 back in the day and it caused headaches for a while.

Hi,
I have been having a similar problem with my series 1,  1.3 Driver (the "Tangerine Terror" was at the Mk 1 Gathering) and tried coils points dizzy leads usual stuff-and still it would stutter and stop completely at random, sometimes doing 1 mile sometimes 100! sometimes ticking over but sometimes complete stop (ignition lights all on)… After a few minutes it would start.It is getting more frequent… thought this was heat related hence coil /condensor changed several times. Carb' checked too, was  fine. Changed fuel pump.
Then I decided to disconnect flexible fuel line before the in-line filter and gently blow with my mouth to push petrol back into tank to see if clear (there was rusty particles in the plastic filter which made me think to do this) the resistance was terrible! like 80% blocked. Suddenly what I imagine is rusty muck in the gauze fell back in the tank freed! Then easy to blow and could hear bubbles in fuel tank.
Result ? so far no more problem. BUT I know I need to clean with a magnet the tank.
just in case its not this-
On the electrical side, RUBJONNY says to check if the ignition switch or fuse box causing misfire/stopping, get a wire ready between the + terminal on the battery and the + coil terminal (labelled15) IF the car plays up then connect this to see if all is normal. If so this shows there is a ignition switch /fuse box/wiring problem on that side of the electrics.
Hope that helps.
Marcus.

 

Saulty said

I would still check the needle valve in the carb. The fuel pump needs to deliver more fuel than the engine can use even when flat out and if the needle valve is dirty or worn it could be letting excess fuel over flow through the breather in the float chamber and flood the engine. Have you removed the air filter cover and see if fuel is over flowing straight into the venturi? It's worth checking this. I had similar issues with my MK1 series 1 1.1 back in the day and it caused headaches for a while.

When I cleaned the carb, I checked the needle valve. This one got replaced when we did our restoration. I've checked the carb and everything seems to be good, no flooding.

Daytona said

Hi,
I have been having a similar problem with my series 1,  1.3 Driver (the "Tangerine Terror" was at the Mk 1 Gathering) and tried coils points dizzy leads usual stuff-and still it would stutter and stop completely at random, sometimes doing 1 mile sometimes 100! sometimes ticking over but sometimes complete stop (ignition lights all on)… After a few minutes it would start.It is getting more frequent… thought this was heat related hence coil /condensor changed several times. Carb' checked too, was  fine. Changed fuel pump.
Then I decided to disconnect flexible fuel line before the in-line filter and gently blow with my mouth to push petrol back into tank to see if clear (there was rusty particles in the plastic filter which made me think to do this) the resistance was terrible! like 80% blocked. Suddenly what I imagine is rusty muck in the gauze fell back in the tank freed! Then easy to blow and could hear bubbles in fuel tank.
Result ? so far no more problem. BUT I know I need to clean with a magnet the tank.
just in case its not this-
On the electrical side, RUBJONNY says to check if the ignition switch or fuse box causing misfire/stopping, get a wire ready between the + terminal on the battery and the + coil terminal (labelled15) IF the car plays up then connect this to see if all is normal. If so this shows there is a ignition switch /fuse box/wiring problem on that side of the electrics.
Hope that helps.
Marcus.
 

Hey Marcus,
Thanks for the comment, I remember your orange mk& for the AGM
Yes, we also replaced the coils with an other one, which still gave the same problem. Fuel lines are all clear since these got replaced. Fuel tank got cleaned out also.

We've also connected the battery with the + of the coil still the same.

I would also consider the condenser and points, I know they are nearly new but that doesn't always mean good!

I hope you get it sorted, I like your little 1.1 Golf and I'm a touch jealous! My first car was a 1978 1.1 3 door and I'd love to have another one day!

Saulty said

I would also consider the condenser and points, I know they are nearly new but that doesn't always mean good!

I hope you get it sorted, I like your little 1.1 Golf and I'm a touch jealous! My first car was a 1978 1.1 3 door and I'd love to have another one day!

It's been a week now since we've replaced the points and condensor. Seems to be running great.

We first changed the points and noticed still some small stuttering, after then changing the condensor everything was good.

Looks like the condensor went bad over time and thus cause the burned points which cause for the heavy stuttering!

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Early Air-Cooled's had the issue that if you left your key in the ignition and switched on to listen to the Radio, you would burn your points and condensor out.

VW in it's wisdom allowed the radio on with the key out to prevent this.  

The point burn and key on is still an issue to this day, my brother experienced this in his 68 Bus going across the desert….. He got out for a potty break, and his wife was listening to the Radio with the Key on…… Needless to say they were stuck for a while to go fetch parts 100 miles away.

Glad you got it sorted, the good thing about these engines is that they are basic and there is very little to go wrong with them!
At least you can get on with the 2002 resto now😉!

Briano1234 said

Early Air-Cooled's had the issue that if you left your key in the ignition and switched on to listen to the Radio, you would burn your points and condensor out.

VW in it's wisdom allowed the radio on with the key out to prevent this.  

The point burn and key on is still an issue to this day, my brother experienced this in his 68 Bus going across the desert….. He got out for a potty break, and his wife was listening to the Radio with the Key on…… Needless to say they were stuck for a while to go fetch parts 100 miles away.

We do have a radio in the car but it's never turned on as I want to hear that little engine rev haha

Saulty said

Glad you got it sorted, the good thing about these engines is that they are basic and there is very little to go wrong with them!
At least you can get on with the 2002 resto now😉!

Yes, and they are small so you are able to easily get to everything.

Well.. about that, I bought myself another "project" it's in very good condition just needs some tidying up.
A BMW E30 325iX Touring. (2,5liter straight 6, 4wd Touring)

I'll be using this one as my new daily. Looks like I might have to make yet another "other cars / projects thread"