AT LAST! Hairys Resto!!

Rubadubdub, that's exactly it dude

Great work on that sill section though bud, keep up the good work!

im good mate, nearing the end of my mk1s latest guise as a g60! hoping to have it out in the summer!

that sill was a joke!

G60RGE said

im good mate, nearing the end of my mk1s latest guise as a g60! hoping to have it out in the summer!

that sill was a joke!

I know and it got laughed at enough which was only fair!    G60 - nice new guise, that'll be spot-on. Keeping it white?

Cheers lads again on the filler tip  

Just stopping for a late lunch having been 'lead loading' for the last few hours. I'm no master as not done this before but may put up a 'how-to' once I'm done to give others confidence in doing this, it's really not too bad. So far;

First brush on the solder paste on the area to be leaded;



Then with a blow torch (I'm just using a DIY one with disposable gas canisters) heat up the solder paste until it starts to tin (goes brown and bubbles a little) then wipe it with a clean, cotton cloth/rag and this smears the paste making it cover the area like metal/chrome



You need to tin an area wider than your repair - which I've probably not done quite well enough?? - to ensure that the lead adheres to the metal

The hardest part I've found so far is actually getting the lead on to the panel! Heat up the end of the bolder solder stick, it seems to take forever but I'm sure in less than a minute (from cold) it's going soft and you can push the end on to the panel, heat it a little more and then twist/wiggle to get the end to stay on the panel. It's not as easy as it may sound but easy enough with a little patience



Once warm the lead doesn't need so much heat to soften it to lay down the next blobs!

In the kit I got from Frosts, there were two wooden paddles (one flat and one convex) and tallow. Wave your torch over the tub of tallow and the surface will liquefy, then dab your paddle in it to coat it. This I believe is used to stop the lead sticking to the paddle - and it helps smooth the lead I've found



Then heat the lead and when it goes soft like butter you can use the paddle to smooth it out.





It's actually quite easy to do - although maybe not to get it looking good. I've spent 3 hours on it so far today and got this far, plus a bit more left of shot;



By no means finished and perhaps I could have just used body filler on this but I've always wanted to try this technique and it means less filler in the arch now. Hopefully I can get most of it laid down today and start with the body file.

REMEMBER: The paste also contains lead, so wear a mask, and gloves at all times!!

I'm quite pleased with this so far  

I've got the majority of the arch leaded now;



I now need to do the rear end of the arch and the rear corner. I did have a go at finishing off the body solder to see how easy it was - and it is pretty easy  

First off went over with the flexible body file;



Then some P80 sandpaper on a block;



In front of the arch on the sill may need a little more solder as there's some 'lows' in it;



..and not too much lead wasted. These are the lumps that fell on the floor, either when trying to apply the lead or when heating it to smooth and heating it just that little bit too much!  



Next will be more sanding of the lead solder, then when I'm happy with it all a skim of filler.

I'm really pleased with this now, I reckon I'll get a good finish with this method, and the arch spat fits over ok too which is a relief  

Coming along nicely Andy. Hats off to you for trying something a little different with the lead loading instead of the usual filler. Have heard lots about it but never seen how its done - thanks for showing us.

Nice work with the lead Andy, you've done a good job there. I bottled out with my leading

Thanks chaps. To be honest when I first started I thought 'oh my god, what have I done!' but very quickly it all seems to take shape

lovely work Andy ! You have the satisfaction that you have done a great repair and in the future it wont blister or rust .

    

I had a play with leading when my Dad had new rear wings on his XJ6 - needed a good 1/4" making up down the door shuts.

We got pretty good at it by the time we'd finished(!)

Keep up the good work!

Didn't get much time on it tonight - sanded back the bottom of the B-post ready for another skim of filler and sanded a bit more of the lead.

I'm happy with the arch now but after a lot of contemplation have decided I need to put on hold skimming the filler over. With the depression in the rear quarter panel above the filler neck plus another between the swage line and arch (below the filler neck) there's just too much depth IMO to fill these plus the swage line is a little flat in the area, as opposed to ever so slightly convex.

I'll have a look around on tinternet for tips but guessing that heat is the only way of getting these depressions (posh word for dents!   ) out. If a lot of heat is needed, it could upset the lead, so no point putting more on or filler for that matter.

Will see if it's something I can tackle myself, otherwise I'm just going to leave this area, zinc prime it and the body shop will have to sort it.

Good work Andy, you are lead-ing the way in learning new techniques  

Keep it going, its not long til winter  

Massbad69 said

Good work Andy, you are lead-ing the way in learning new techniques  

Keep it going, its not long til winter  

 

I need it finished for summer!  

Hats off to you for using the lead, I'd imagine it was quite daunting to start with, but it's all looking good  

pazwaa said

Hats off to you for using the lead, I'd imagine it was quite daunting to start with, but it's all looking good  

Thanks Matt. Yes at first I did think I had made a big mistake, but once I got in to it I really enjoyed it! After much deliberation I am holding fire with more lead or filler on the arch. The more I look at the depressions in the panel above and below the filler neck the more I realise I wont be able to sort that easily - one for the body shop. I'm off work Friday next week so will see if I can drag them around to look over and give an estimate for this and total respray - when I'm ready for it!

So tonight - one step forward;



…and one back;



Hopefully that's the last skim of filler on the b-post and I can flat it and prime it tomorrow night. I have to admit I'm at one of those brick-wall stages    - where I just don't feel like I'm making any progress. The thought of giving it to a body shop now and just letting them finish it all is rather appealing - the price wont be though!    

lots of work going on.....

Well no updates for about a week, family stuff last weekend, migraine this week and just short of time but have tomorrow and Monday off work to make up time on the car.

I also have the body shop coming over tomorrow to take a look at it. He's guessed a price for the respray and sorting the depressions around the filler neck which is in line with what I thought - I'm going to see what price he'll do for taking on a lot of the rest of the bodywork now.

I enjoy doing this, but it's consuming my life and I think I may struggle to get it done for the AGM. Fingers crossed he can do it at a price I can live with. He's free from about mid April through May so I could do what I can until he takes it and get it back end May for the refit.

That would work for me as long as the money does. Fingers crossed!!

I don't blame you one bit Andy. It must be so difficult working in a single garage, hats off for getting as far as you have mate.  

I've got used to that to be honest, I'm just more concerned with having enough time, and cancelling going places to work on the car which doesn't feel sustainable for a full 6 months!

We'll see how tomorrow goes

Fingers crossed mate