Adding a electric pump to a weber carb'd clipper- good move?

Hi

Still having problems with the car cutting out for no reason- runs fine, then drops revs and dies- look under the bonnet and the inlines dry. I then leave it a minute or so and it then fires, pulls through fuel and we're good to go….cf_emoticons__BangHead:I've change the pump (mechanical), checked the sender (ok), changed the tank (no debris in the filter), coils new (4 months old), carb is clean, HTs, plugs and rotor ok….Im therefore thinking the either the cams not up to the job (possibly wworn- heard this happens on transporters…) or the weber is demanding more than the pump can supply. Im thinking the former of these only as when I put my finger over the pipe between the filter and pump the suction isnt great when its working- not sure when its not as it wont turn over.

Any thoughts, opinions or experiences would be gratefully received.

cheers
Ross 

I had a similar problem with my car (Weber 36TLP carb on a 1.5l GL), it turned out to be the mechanical fuel pump so i replaced it with a facet electric fuel pump and it has been running sweet ever since. I recon the car has better top end performance and starts easier as well but that could be just because i was used to a failing mechanical pump. 

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully it could cure it then…
Once it's going it pulls fuel (unless it fails completely) but regardless  if the engines hot or cold it always idles low on start up untill its run for a bit. Timing etc is spot on though so hoping its just the bigger carb needing more juice.
Did you fit it yourself or get a garage on the case (if so would be interest in the cost if you can recall)?
Also, where does the electric pump sit on the bay?

I fitted it myself, its mounted on special brackets that i fabricated on the chassis leg on the drivers side as low down as possible but i am thinking about relocating it to be next to the fuel tank in the same location as the GTi fuel pumps. My pump has a filter on the inlet then the outlet goes direct to the carb, no swirl pot or return lines.   The pump should be wired to a relay that shuts off if the engine stops to prevent fuel spills in the event of an accident.
I think the total cost was £40 including all new fuel lines and hose clips. The wiring i already had so that was free.
I hope it solves your problem.

Sounds like a job but fingers crossed it works…the starvation issues running out of possibilities
Thanks for you help

This is very funny but my LR Defender TDi (different beast i know) has just today developed the same problem! After checking the fuel lines i have found a tiny section that has perished near a joint and is letting air in before the lift pump. Have you checked your fuel lines for air leaks? Just another suggestion.

jamesn said

This is very funny but my LR Defender TDi (different beast i know) has just today developed the same problem! After checking the fuel lines i have found a tiny section that has perished near a joint and is letting air in before the lift pump. Have you checked your fuel lines for air leaks? Just another suggestion.

I have had the garage blow them out and nothing reported as corroded…butfor the sake of if whilst its in, probably get them swapped out as suspect its am easy/cheap fix.
Thanks for the tip

Sounds like air leak to me.
Remove the carb and inspect the carb flange bolted to inlet manifold for tiny splits, bubbles, also  check all air lines are tight.
I've never in my 20 years of having vw's had any issues with the original fuel pumps on 1.3 big block SA golf, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 carb blocks.
Check that first and get back to me.
Have you done any work recently to the block apart from pump?
You might have air in lines somewhere, simple cure suck it.
more info i get the better i can help and please don't be embarrassed if you've done something your not sure about as we've all been there and here to help other's
Best wishes

Peddersgolf said

Sounds like air leak to me.
Remove the carb and inspect the carb flange bolted to inlet manifold for tiny splits, bubbles, also  check all air lines are tight.
I've never in my 20 years of having vw's had any issues with the original fuel pumps on 1.3 big block SA golf, 1.5, 1.6 and 1.8 carb blocks.
Check that first and get back to me.
Have you done any work recently to the block apart from pump?
You might have air in lines somewhere, simple cure suck it.
more info i get the better i can help and please don't be embarrassed if you've done something your not sure about as we've all been there and here to help other's
Best wishes

Thanks for your help. Not done anything recently and to be honest clutching at straws. Ive had it in the garage and got the flange changed and vaccum hoses seem all ok (changed these some time back).
Im gonna change the petrol lines just incase they have a small hole. Im also gonna check the neck (tanks been replaced and no signs of rust in it now).
The carbs clean…any other ideas?

Only other think to note….
On startup when warm it still struggles to get past 600rpm…when you run it it finally settles but stop, start it back up and its like its cold….odd.

Ok so we have had rust in past as tank been replaced.
Filler neck you need to check?
Also remove the fuel sender from tank and make sure for definate that no small particals blocking the small filter on end of sender pipe.
Should be approx 15 holes and tiniest thing can block the flow.
Ok! let's look at something that maybe not been considered.
The fuel / vapour separtor on the front of rocker cover.

Like this:-
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Fuel-Vapour-Seperator-Golf-Jetta-Scirocco-1600-1800-Carb-026127177_act_shop.product_pID_34037652_lang_EN_country_GB.htm

Should be held on via 2 x 10mm nuts of the rocker.
On 1.5 only one bolt.
These are known for been blocked with rust dirt particals and needs to be tested.
Can you please by pass this and feed pipes direct from fuel pump to the carb or if you have someone whom can pass one as a tester.
It sounds from your comments a fuel issue thus this in my opinon according to the alledged work done by either yourself or previous owner, this may be the culprit.
Do not worry about dirt getting to the jets or carb, ASLONG as you have inline fuel filter in bay your fine.
If your local to north west i could look in person, as can't beat hands on
Best wishes

Your a legend with the info mate- really appreciate your help.

Right, changed up the seperator a whole back (when I had the rust in the tank- the rust was due to fuel sitting in it for over a year…the car wasn't run much before I got it). Tank, seperator, carb flange and setup worked for a bit but then the at would just cut out (as per my previous note).

I'll try the rooting if the return and biomass the seperator though- can this be run like this permanently?

Also, tried to start it today and its running really ruff (smelt really fuelly and sounded like it was running in half the cylinders). It ran once I floored it and sorted itself out. I think the choke if knackered (its a manual one) as it won't push in (resistance like a spring).

Would love for you to have a look…however I'm in Bristol so a bit f a trip I'm gonna drop it into the garage tomorrow for them to have a look as I'm off on holiday and just want it sorted so I can use it when I get back.
Anything I should point then at aside from the diverting of the vapour separator?

Cheers
Ross 

Yes you can continue to bypass seperator BUT it was designed for a purpose and having still there in my opinon is a must, but you will only be bypassing for small amount fo time to atleast give you some answers.

Can i ask :- is the weber fitted second hand?
Was it fitted by you, new or second hand?
Was it fitted new or second hand fitted by previous owner as a faulty carb could be at fault or bad maintenance by the owners.
I am pointing at getting new carb and no issues at all.
Then down to you to maintain it and not just think it will keep going without any loving (Yes that's how i think lol) and mine has never failed.
Either the manual choke is sticking on carb end OR it is not routed correctly thus tension and stress put on the cable i.e. hard to push which is easy to resolve by removing and routing it straight through bulkhead nothing forcing against it etc and that the cable has a nice U bend as it goes over the rocker and too the choke on carb.
Also as a rule i personally each year roughly nov-dec i remove carb and clean everything, checking flange and apply grease to moving parts i.e springs, arms on external side of carb to prevent seizing.
Also whilst cable removed, apply grease to the whole cable. i.e put grease on first finger and thumb and run entire cable through fingers, then fit back into the plastic sleeving.
Also apply grease to metal end where cable is pulled in the interior as this prevents anything but smooth operation
These things are free and prevent issues occuring.

The carb was fitted before I got the carb- think it was a second hand one.
To be honest, after a setup and a new tank all was well for a month or so, then the mystery cutting out and apparent fuel not reaching the fuel filter scenario so don't really want to change out the carb.

Edging towards getting the fuel lines replaced first as working my way back from the filter this is the only area that I suspect it could be (degraded/worn and letting air in).