My rad over boils buti dnt have a thermostat?
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Old Timer
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My rad over boils buti dnt have a thermostat?
Anyone have any ideas???
Cheers dan
Posted
Old Timer
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Posted
Old Timer
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Posted
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Old Timer
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Posted
Old Timer
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Posted
Local Hero
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Posted
Old Timer
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Posted
Local Hero
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Also, its undersized, you need to sort this too eventually.
Posted
Old Timer
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Kick in when the rad is hot, just one question
If the engine was filled up with coolant without a thermostat (meanin the housing which should have the thermostat is open) would this mean it wud be over filled??? Cuz normally the thermostat wud be closed due to the water being closed I.e not lettin any water passed
Or am I talkin a load of crap??? Lol
I am goin to put a thermostat on it, just didn't realise I never put one on
Posted
Local Hero
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If you merely added coolant when the engine was cold, then assumed it was full because it was full cold, then there is a possibility of a massive airlock (the entire circuit with the radiator in it, for example) and you'll quickly run into overheating issues.
So no, a thermostat being fitted or not makes no difference to the amount of coolant required, so long as its done properly (save for the tiny volume of the thermostat itself which would have displaced some coolant).
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Old Timer
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Local Hero
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Old Timer
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Posted
Local Hero
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Was the thermostat fitted or not, when they filled with water? Was it the thermostat housing which was missing? Did they fit this housing, but not the thermostat, then fill the car with coolant?
All sounds a bit dodgy to me.
Posted
Old Timer
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The bit about the manifold they sed cuz its a 16v stainless steel one, it gets too hot and it's a fire hazard or summat, so I just took there word for it but it sounded about right to me cuz someone on here sed that they are a fire hazard with the steering rack gaitor
But I dunno really I'm just takin other ppls word for it so I dnt really know mate
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Local Hero
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People say its quick and easy to do a 16V conversion but you really need to do it properly and not cut corners, to avoid unreliability or teething problems. There is an unavoidable requirement to spend time reading up on it and properly understanding things, and money on the required parts.
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MOTY 2013
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plus if you ever have the coolant boil then you will get more airlocks so you have to start the bleeding procedure all over again!
try a new cap to start with, could simply be faulty and preventing the coolant system from pressurising. you are bleeding the system with the heaters set to hot right?
re the fans if you dont run a shroud this will reduce the effectiveness of the fan considerably, so its best to fit one. you can solve the blowing direction by switching the wires over to reverse the fan rotation, or simply swap it to the other side of the fan! the direction wont effect how well it cools the radiator though so dont worry about that.
as a start try bleeding it again:
Run the engine from cold with the cap off and rev it to 2k now and again. While you are doing this squeeze all the pipes you can get your hands on, and keep the coolant level topped up. It will eventually start to boil over, at this point turn the engine off. Once its settled down top it up to the max mark and you should be good to go!
keep an eye on the coolant in the tank to make sure its moving about nicely, if not it could be your waterpump is duff
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Posted
Old Timer
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As for the fan I tried swapping the wires round n it dnt do anythin to the rotation, I've put it on the other side of the rad so hopefully that shud be alright
Also what's a "shroud"??
Im gonna get a new cap also cuz the one that's on it is off my other rad so I'll get a new one of those
As for the water pump I'm hoping it works cuz its a brand new one, but I know even new ones cus be faulty, but how can I check to see if the water if moving around the system nicely if I ent got an expansion tank? It's a bit hard to see in the rad
Posted
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MOTY 2013
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when you swap the wires you need to do it on the fan itself it will have a live and earth. take the earth off the battery and put it on the rad temp sensor, and the wire to the temp sensor to the battery earth. if that doesnt work then the fan must have some electrical wizardry inside it
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checking the pump without a header tank is a bit tricky as you say, you could take the pump off and check the impeller is intact and not slipping on the shaft i suppose but then you'll have to drain and refill the cooling system again
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My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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Posted
Old Timer
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I swapped the wires round ( the proper ones lol I never swapped the right ones before) n the fan now sucks air, I think I'm gonna make a cowling of sum sort to fit my fan…….. So just a question of the cowling, is there anything I need to take into account I.e do I need to make any extra holes on the cowling for air flow or wud it be ok if it was basically just a plate with the only hole being the fan???
Put a thermostat on it and it heated up a lot quicker than before, but it didn't over boil but I think I might not have the right cap on it so I'm gonna get one of those soon,
Basically the needle on the gauge now goes about 3/4 of the way up and just sits there….. Is that right??
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